First time painter
Let me start off by saying i have no experience at all with painting..i used a single stage paint and sprayed out of a 1.0 tip,hvlp fun with a crap *** reg at 35psi..just need some advice on how to reduce the amount of orange peel..
the victim:

the trunk:

spolier:
the victim:

the trunk:

spolier:
did u make sure the surface was clean? any grease/oil will cause a orange peel, or maybe u were puttin the paint on to thick. i think its sumthin like a 60%(paint)-40%(thinner/reducer) mix. im not a pro at car painting but i do paint and spray alot of **** for a living.
btw, somtimes a quick buff will get rid of that as well.
btw, somtimes a quick buff will get rid of that as well.
depends on your paint if you had the right amount of reducer usely 4 to 1. also key is the prep work oil or dirt will cause that. 1.0 tip is good usely 1.0 tip is for clear. also if was clean did you wait long enough for the flash times?
orange peel is caused from fluid control watch the paint going on. you want it wet enough to flow out but not cause runs...if you get a run try to bump up the pressure a pound or two...did you set the gun up correct? here is a link for how to adjust your gun for optimal performance
http://www.autobody101.com/art...ation
http://www.autobody101.com/art...ation
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gemineye716 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u make sure the surface was clean? any grease/oil will cause a orange peel, or maybe u were puttin the paint on to thick. i think its sumthin like a 60%(paint)-40%(thinner/reducer) mix. im not a pro at car painting but i do paint and spray alot of **** for a living.
btw, somtimes a quick buff will get rid of that as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Grease or oil will not cause orange peel.
Orange peal as said in the other post, is caused by improperly tuned settings on a gun (ie - too much fluid or too much air).
Single stage is too think to be sprayed out of a 1.0 tip. You should try a 1.4-1.5 tip to spray it through.
btw, somtimes a quick buff will get rid of that as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Grease or oil will not cause orange peel.
Orange peal as said in the other post, is caused by improperly tuned settings on a gun (ie - too much fluid or too much air).
Single stage is too think to be sprayed out of a 1.0 tip. You should try a 1.4-1.5 tip to spray it through.
i waited like 5 min between coats but was told that was enough..its ss thats all ready reduced in the can ill get a pic of it in a few min... i did a lil cutt n buff and it came out a tad better then i thought it would
how many psi shoudl be at a hvlp gun with a regulator thats reads the psi at the gun???? i no i need 10psi at the cap, but how would i get that type of pressure at the gun?
Modified by slowassciv33 at 5:40 PM 8/7/2008
Modified by slowassciv33 at 5:40 PM 8/7/2008
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set your gun to the max pressure at the regulator going in to the gun with the trigger pulled...most of the time the max pressure stamped on the side will give you 10psi at the cup
okay orange peel is caused by paiting tecnique. from the way it looks ur setup is junk. u need at least a 1.3-1.5 for single stage. ur pressure should be a 30psi. heres why u have orage peel. small tip not allowing enough material to flow out with too high pressure causing it to be a bit dry. thats how orange peel is caused
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay orange peel is caused by paiting tecnique. from the way it looks ur setup is junk. u need at least a 1.3-1.5 for single stage. ur pressure should be a 30psi. heres why u have orage peel. small tip not allowing enough material to flow out with too high pressure causing it to be a bit dry. thats how orange peel is caused</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pressure should be determined by the type of gun you are using.
For instance, an Iwata, for me it was best at about 18 psi. Why? Because that gun in particular doesn't require as much cfm as others do. I believe its probably the best gun that doesn't require as much cfm. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Pressure should be determined by the type of gun you are using.
For instance, an Iwata, for me it was best at about 18 psi. Why? Because that gun in particular doesn't require as much cfm as others do. I believe its probably the best gun that doesn't require as much cfm. Correct me if I'm wrong.
point the gun at your face, read the cap it should say right on there the pressure...every sata, devilbiss, iwata, sikkens gun I have used always stamp the psi on it.
As said your 1.0 tip is way too small.
You have the can, most all paints have on the side the flash time between coats at a given temp (70), they sometimes have the tip suggested as well. If your can doesn't then ask the place you got it from to see the P sheets for the product
As said your 1.0 tip is way too small.
You have the can, most all paints have on the side the flash time between coats at a given temp (70), they sometimes have the tip suggested as well. If your can doesn't then ask the place you got it from to see the P sheets for the product
i have a tech sheet and the tip doesnt have the pressure on the cap..it might be my first time but im not retarted...and i no i gotta have 10psi at the cap, not the regulator but i dont have a regulator that reads at the cap only inlet psi
slowassciv33, take a look at the sides of your gun, it may have a recommended input pressure. Mine says 16-19PSI right by the inlet.
My first time too.
Also, what gun are you using? Is it a touch-up/mini?
My first time too.
Also, what gun are you using? Is it a touch-up/mini?
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