Hello All

Like I said before I would be cleaning up my new ride but I will want a better detailing machine.

I've read on here and many suggest the porter cable 7424.

I am very interested in that one right now.

Can anyone please help suggest where to buy one or if you are selling one please let me know.

Thanks a bunch

 

?

 

For small jobs, get the porter cable. I personally use it for wetsanding.

If you really want to dive in and have the right tool for the job, get the DeWalt DW849

 

autogeek.net

get the intro pad package they offer for like 170 bucks; it gives you the 7424, a backing plate, some orange pads and some white pads. it's a solid deal.

also, call them and ask for lower shipping. they can lower the ground shipping a bit for you.

great company, great products, great service.

 

i will def look into the autogeek.net deal

anyone else?

 

the PC is "ok", but really lacks power for any real paint correcting. if going with a DA polisher, look at the UDM atleast. I still say you get a rotary and learn how to use it, you'll have better results.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the PC is "ok", but really lacks power for any real paint correcting. if going with a DA polisher, look at the UDM atleast. I still say you get a rotary and learn how to use it, you'll have better results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. I was trying to stay out of this thread but screw it. A random orbiter is great for 'shine' but to get some cutting power and remove deep imperfections, a rotary is the only way to go. That autogeek.net sounds like the best thing for a paint repair noob such as yourself.

LMAO at your sig, E-Rok!!! Can't wait 'til next week!

 

I can't imagine that half the people on this board could successfully use a rotary though. You'd be overwhelmed with "I think I went through the clear" and "why did all the edges of my panels turn silver?"

I had the makita, it took a dump on me. Still have a PC, just haven't has a reason to get another rotary as I haven't had a need for more than touch ups. maybe I've just gotten lazy.

I friend of mine has that crazy cyclo thing. Does a nice job, never used it though, and I don't know what levels he's using it to. He may be just using it for really light duty stuff, dunno. Looks nuts though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by csulliva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> crazy cyclo thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the two headed silver thing? man...i read somewhere a little while ago about how that thing is very cumbersome and it used to have issues because it didn't have normal backing plates, it had bolts exposed.

you guys really think that with the right pad and compound a DA can't handle most issues? i didn't know that. i was always under the impression that a rotary would handle stuff with speed, while a DA can do most of the same stuff but takes more time. The speed issue is why it's such an art; the DA doesn't do stuff fast enough to surprise anyone.

i wrote in another thread how i used the wrong pad (orange) and the wrong polish (optimum's polish) and still managed to show decent improvement on some water spots on my wife's 07 si. i really think that if i had a more aggro pad and compound i'd be able to get it OR spent a boat load of time, i just don't know for sure so i'm taking it to a pro.

 

I've been told by pro's I trust, and I've found it to be pretty much true with limited rotary experience, that a DA will do roughly 3/4 of what a rotary will. For the really deep stuff, REAL repair, you need the heat a rotary will generate.

DA's give up some just to make it dummy proof. I feel like they're just fine for the home user though, they're way better than trying to do it by hand.

 

If its either/or, I would def get a rotary. Get a good one with an adjustable trigger, along with adjustable speed. I picked up a new electric buffer and polisher recently to avoid using my air powered stuff at home. I bought a Dynabrade's electric buffer, works awesome, trigger feel is great, which is what I like about their air powered 100% adjustable trigger model.

 

have a link powerflow ?

if you guys can please provide a link to the product you suggest

thanks!

looking to order one tonight.

and get working next week!

 

This is the one. The price is too high though IMO, should be able to find it a littler cheaper or find something similar for a lot cheaper. At least you get to see the nice options to look for. Mine was under 200.00 new, seen them for 100 used. There might be more than one model though, typically Dynabrade stuff isn't cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

 

omg, OP, be careful with that one! haha....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kelviiv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you guys can please provide a link to the product you suggest
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I learned how to buff with this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

I wish I had started using this one a long time ago(I LOVE MY MAKITA):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...8154&

 

Buy mine! http://www.hondamarketplace.co...97253

 

just an update....

so, i scheduled a date for a trusted pro to take a peak at this, but he was a no-show at his business for one reason or another. i then asked a friend to get in touch with an old detailing contact who i know is pretty well versed, but i've not heard back, so i decided to take a shot with more appropriate juice. i figured at worst it'll do nothing worse than what's already there, or do nothing at all.

still my 7424, and still the orange pad, but i used this sample of system one "x3" i've had sitting around from a presentation at work. i tried this stuff by hand one time a couple months ago and it left a hologram type effect. that told me that it's initially pretty aggressive. it seemed like a compound, actually.

so, i hit a section of the hood with that, first at 3, then at 5. i didn't spend that much time because i was a bit afraind. i buffed it, and to my surprise, the spots were almost completely gone! only hair traces of the etched spots were left. i went for another go 'round, this time solely at 4 and a hair quicker than the last time. i buffed it and it looks fantastic. i don't see anything but glass!!!! for kicks, i decided to hit it like i did before with the optimum polish, buffed it, and i have to say it looks brand new. i can't believe it...

the only bummer will be hitting the roof on this thing. i'm pretty tall, but still.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just an update....

so, i scheduled a date for a trusted pro to take a peak at this, but he was a no-show at his business for one reason or another. i then asked a friend to get in touch with an old detailing contact who i know is pretty well versed, but i've not heard back, so i decided to take a shot with more appropriate juice. i figured at worst it'll do nothing worse than what's already there, or do nothing at all.

still my 7424, and still the orange pad, but i used this sample of system one "x3" i've had sitting around from a presentation at work. i tried this stuff by hand one time a couple months ago and it left a hologram type effect. that told me that it's initially pretty aggressive. it seemed like a compound, actually.

so, i hit a section of the hood with that, first at 3, then at 5. i didn't spend that much time because i was a bit afraind. i buffed it, and to my surprise, the spots were almost completely gone! only hair traces of the etched spots were left. i went for another go 'round, this time solely at 4 and a hair quicker than the last time. i buffed it and it looks fantastic. i don't see anything but glass!!!! for kicks, i decided to hit it like i did before with the optimum polish, buffed it, and i have to say it looks brand new. i can't believe it...

the only bummer will be hitting the roof on this thing. i'm pretty tall, but still.</TD></TR></TABLE>

try polishing a dually

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

try polishing a dually </TD></TR></TABLE>

NO THANKS, hahaha...

 

PC is the way to go. I have seen many pros on Autopia detail exotic clientele with amazing results with it. I got mine a few years ago at Lowes for about $115.

Unless you are a pro, absolutely DO NOT get a rotary, as they are unforgiving in the wrong hands.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rufrdr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PC is the way to go. I have seen many pros on Autopia detail exotic clientele with amazing results with it. I got mine a few years ago at Lowes for about $115.

Unless you are a pro, absolutely DO NOT get a rotary, as they are unforgiving in the wrong hands.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a rotary is VERY easy to learn, have you even used one?

dont freaking use it at full speed and always keep it moving and you will have no problems. the PC is a joke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PC is a joke.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that statement is a little aggressive, don't you think!?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that statement is a little aggressive, don't you think!?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe, but a UDM is still a better buy if shopping for a DA polisher. the PC just isnt very powerful.

 

Very true when compared to the power of a Flex XC or a Dynabrade air powered DA, RO polisher.

 

Ok thanks all

I don't really want to start a new thread but has anyone had any experience with this product?


http://www.liquidglass.com/lgpolish.htm