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"good buffer" looking for solid affordable buffer for home

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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #26  
Convert's Avatar
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

Heres my actual situation:

I have a 93 Eg Si thats milano red. well, milano pink right now. and the entire front end needs to be repainted. and in the interest of a nice project, i saw expletive that, lets repaint the whole thing. the buffer is so i can do all the appropriate buffing for the new paint.

in addition, we just bought a fit around 4 months or so ago, and i would like it to look that good in 10+ years. plus, it would be nice to be able make a little on the side doing cars for friends and family.

nothing crazy, just some good paint maintenance.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #27  
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i think im ready for a rotary.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 07:42 AM
  #28  
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Default Re: (fventura03)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think im ready for a rotary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then you can drive to the ky and and show me how the hell to do it.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:00 AM
  #29  
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Default Re: (Convert)

I am not being negative toward you, I am simply stating what I see pop up all the time on the detailing form I am on.


here is a good sight to get products from. They are who I use and they have a discount code out right now.
http://www.autogeek.net/

Here is a quick vid I remember seeing on that site with the pc7424
http://video.google.com/videop...dex=1

For one the PC is pretty cheap. So if you dont like it you can ebay it and get something else. I am telling you though it works great.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:04 AM
  #30  
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Default Re: (.Kevin.)

he should expect to spend about $300 after pads, compound/polish, MF towels and whatnot

best bet is to get one of the PC starter kits
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:04 AM
  #31  
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Default Re: (Convert)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Convert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

then you can drive to the ky and and show me how the hell to do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lols, look on youtube, lots of great videos, i've learned how to use it from looking at the videos posted there.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:16 AM
  #32  
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Default Re: (.Kevin.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Kevin. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am not being negative toward you, I am simply stating what I see pop up all the time on the detailing form I am on. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Ok. cool then. thanks for the help my friend (wasnt taking it personal anyway! i knew what you were getting at )

thanks to all for all the great links and such. maybe one day i too buff with the masters
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:31 AM
  #33  
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Default Re: (fventura03)

You guys should check out Dynabrade. I use their air/pneumatic tools, their air rotary buffer has a 100% adjustable trigger so its great for tricky areas, fresh paint ect. Its completely different than some random electric w/ a few speeds. Dynabrade came out with an electric rotary w/ a "feather touch" trigger. I've always wondered if its trigger is like the air powered, wich would be awesome to see on an electric. It might be more exspensive but it would be well worth it if the trigger feel is nice, and really that adjustable.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:22 AM
  #34  
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

I just picked up a makita from a local pawn shop for $40. cant beat it!
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #35  
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Default Re: (pgpbubble)

for serious...wow. need to look into that.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:10 PM
  #36  
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i gaurentee you'll come across a broken buffer once and a while. if you can buy it, do so...they're great for spare parts. plus sometimes there's just a junk power coil (you can check it by unscrewing that black plastic screw) and it's fixable for a few dollars.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:33 PM
  #37  
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Default Re: (.Kevin.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Kevin. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a quick vid I remember seeing on that site with the pc7424
http://video.google.com/videop...dex=1
</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ that was a great video... very informative. Definitely 8 minutes very well spent.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he should expect to spend about $300 after pads, compound/polish, MF towels and whatnot

best bet is to get one of the PC starter kits</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ which package (PC and pads etc) do you recommend for a beginner?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 04:26 AM
  #38  
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Default Re: (95ProjectEJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> which package (PC and pads etc) do you recommend for a beginner? </TD></TR></TABLE>

up for that info.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 07:21 PM
  #39  
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Default Re: (Convert)

Where do u live in KY?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 07:44 PM
  #40  
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Default Re: (Convert)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

^^ which package (PC and pads etc) do you recommend for a beginner? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is what I bought. I did not get the package because I wanted to use the Optimum line.

I went with
-one yellow pad ( this pad is for heavy swirls and oxidation) I use it very rarely.
-two orange pads (this pad removes moderate to heavy swirling.) I use this pad also once in awhile but have used it on the last two cars I have done.
-two white pads. This you will need. I always use this pad first to see if I need to go to a more aggressive pad. This one you will also use after the orange or yellow pad to work out any marring from a more aggressive pad or polish/compound.
-two blue pads for applying wax.

Remember that with the pads you can not wash it and use it with a diff. product. Once the pad has been used with one product it is only used with that product.

Like I said I like the optimum line. I use their compound and polish. It is my go to combo. I also keep the xmt 360 around to use if the area is in really good condition and does not require a lot of correction.

The only line of polishes I really don't like is the meguires. They use filling oils in their polish which tricks you to think you corrected all of the blemishes but really you didn't.

You will also need a backing plate. I think I have a 5 inch plate, but I am not sure.

I like this package http://www.autogeek.net/optimu....html but like I said I love the optimum line. I also like the XMT stuff (it was used in that video I posted)

I would do without the kits though and make your own to save money. Here is what I would get and where to buy.
PC 7424 - look on ebay
OP- good polish and works differently with different pads. I use it with the white and orange.
OC- I use this with the orange and yellow. Used for heavy swirls or scratches.
4 Microfiber clothes- Walmart kitchen section
QD- To prime the pads and get any polishes that are dried on the paint.
Backing plate- flexible and smaller than 6.5 inches.
A good sealant wax- I know I will get flamed for it but I use NXT on my DSM paint. It makes metallic dark colors look great.
Pads- Two white, two orange, one blue, and a yellow. I personally apply my wax by hand a lot so if you do also you don't have to get carried away with the blue, you can also use a black pad instead of blue.
Microfiber bonnet- Walmart and use the original shitty pad you get with the PC new.


I would say have $300 set aside to get you started. That is atleast, it may cost more I do not know.

Also I would use autogeek for the products. They are really good with customer service and shipping.


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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 08:46 PM
  #41  
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Default Re: (.Kevin.)

you sir, are the ****. thanks for all that info. I will definitely keep all that in mind. thanks to all you cool fellows for the good information. I'll be buffin in no time! wish me luck!!!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8tunerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do u live in KY?</TD></TR></TABLE>


pm sent!
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 09:09 PM
  #42  
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Default Re: (Convert)

no problem.

I would check out autopia.org. The forums over there are great and it is generally an older crowd so questions get answered without bs answers and people know their **** over there.
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 12:30 AM
  #43  
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Default Re: "good buffer" looking for solid affordable buffer for home (Convert)

I don't know if this was metioned already, (didn't want to read through the whole thread) But what i do is i tape up all the edges and sharp points on the car( like style lines) and buff evreything else. Reason for is that theres less clear coat on the edges and high or sharp points on cars. Those areas are the easiest to burn through. after your done just buff the rest by hand. After a while i got cocky and didn't tape it up, and well one time i burned through on a little part, BTW it was on a 911 turbo My boss was not happy that day...
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 05:22 AM
  #44  
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Default Re: (.Kevin.)

Thank you very much... that was some really good information. 300 from what you guys were saying seems to be the norm to get started. I will reference all that you have suggested to buy and search for some good deals online. Thanks again.
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