donut.

anyone got one?

devani

http://www.hidplanet.com ???
Search???
http://www.hidplanet.com/forum...=6612

-Bionic-

Well the E46 is just the projector.

And they use D2S bulbs, so are you asking what ballasts would work on the E46 projectors? If you are asking about a wire harness for the ballasts used by the E46, there are many of them as there are many different ballasts that would are D2S; thus, your question needs to be more specific.

donut.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devani &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.hidplanet.com ???
Search???
http://www.hidplanet.com/forum...=6612</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i tried on hid planet but search engine really blows or it might be me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well the E46 is just the projector.

And they use D2S bulbs, so are you asking what ballasts would work on the E46 projectors? If you are asking about a wire harness for the ballasts used by the E46, there are many of them as there are many different ballasts that would are D2S; thus, your question needs to be more specific.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, you're right. im using the complete e46 hid setup. d2s bulbs and bosche ballasts and ignitors. i see alot of diagrams for a 2 wire setup but i have 3 wires comming from my ballasts. Red, Green, and Black

dwolsten

The three wires are because there are two solenoids: a "pull" solenoid, and a "hold" solenoid. The "pull" solenoid is much more powerful, but requires a lot of power, and will overheat if left on for very long; it wasn't designed for that. The "hold" solenoid can be left on, but it's only powerful enough to hold the shield in the open position, not enough to pull it there in the first place.

There's schematics available on hidplanet that use relays and diodes and such to activate the "pull" solenoid briefly, then turn it off and leave the "hold" solenoid on.

However, for a cleaner, simpler, smaller, and more reliable solution, I'm selling some circuit boards on my website which do the same thing using MOSFETs (a type of transistor), and don't have any moving parts. They're about the size of a quarter, and are extremely simple to wire up: 2 wires in (+12V and GND), and 3 wires out. See my sig for details.

Hope this helps!

devani

http://www.hidplanet.com/forum...enoid
Here is what you are looking for....you can make one not hard at all...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donut. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sorry, you're right. im using the complete e46 hid setup. d2s bulbs and bosche ballasts and ignitors. i see alot of diagrams for a 2 wire setup but i have 3 wires comming from my ballasts. Red, Green, and Black</TD></TR></TABLE>

More detailed information you can give, more we can help you...good luck with your retro

-Bionic-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donut. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but i have 3 wires comming from my ballasts. Red, Green, and Black</TD></TR></TABLE>

the green is a seocnd ground, and is not needed.

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the green is a seocnd ground, and is not needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong. I already explained this above in my first post. Running the projector on the pull solenoid only will cause it to overheat and burn out.

-Bionic-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wrong. I already explained this above in my first post. Running the projector on the pull solenoid only will cause it to overheat and burn out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm okay


how do you know he has bixenons? He said E46; that doesn't mean bixenons. And even if it was that's a second ground and not needed. It's for extra precausion, but not needed. go sell your chips elsewhere

donut.

no i do have bi xenons but i dont have the harness that goes to the projector itself for the high beams. this is what i have

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you know he has bixenons? He said E46; that doesn't mean bixenons. And even if it was that's a second ground and not needed. It's for extra precausion, but not needed. go sell your chips elsewhere</TD></TR></TABLE>

He just said he has bixenons, and no, it's not for "extra precausion", it's because there are two independent solenoids there. Can you not read??? I explained it above. Do you even know what a solenoid is?

He needs a circuit to control power to the two solenoids. This circuit is normally built into the e46 ballasts, but for people who have the projectors, but not the matching ballasts (ebay sellers frequently sell only the projectors), they need a circuit like mine, or the relay-based circuit posted on hidplanet.

donut:
According to your photo, you have the e46 bixenon ballasts, so you don't need my circuits. The three cut-off wires coming from your ballasts go directly to those solenoid connectors. The problem is that you need to connect your high beams to one of the connectors on the unpictured side of your ballasts. More info on this should be available on hidplanet. Do a search there, or on Google, for "e46 bixenon ballast wiring" or something like that.

donut.

I was under the impression that the 3 wires pictured connect to the stock headlight wiring on my chassis but you're saying that connects to the solenoid on the projector? i must be missing something cause im very confused on how this will work when i flick on my headlights. the way you're explaining it seems like no wires from my chassis connect to the ballasts and the hid runs on hopes and dreams, figuratively speaking. i was planning on hooking these up without the high beams cause i am missing the connector that goes to the solenoid. any ideas?

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donut. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was under the impression that the 3 wires pictured connect to the stock headlight wiring on my chassis but you're saying that connects to the solenoid on the projector? i must be missing something cause im very confused on how this will work when i flick on my headlights. the way you're explaining it seems like no wires from my chassis connect to the ballasts and the hid runs on hopes and dreams, figuratively speaking. i was planning on hooking these up without the high beams cause i am missing the connector that goes to the solenoid. any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hehe... no, you need real electricity, not hopes and dreams.

I don't have a picture of those ballasts handy, but on the reverse side of them as what you have pictured here, there's two connectors. One of these is a standard 2-prong power connector socket for the ballast itself, and matches the connection on a standard Integra/Civic low-beam halogen bulb. So to test the ballast, all you have to do is unplug a low-beam headlight, and insert that plug into the ballast. The other connector is to activate the high-beam solenoids. Unfortunately, I don't know where to get a matching plug for that socket connector.

Also on the ballast are two sets of wires coming out. One set goes to an ignitor, which is a black epoxy-filled box, which then connect to the bulb. The other set normally goes to a small three-pin connector, which connects to the solenoids on the projectors. On yours, someone has chopped off that three-pin connector unfortunately.

I believe I have a spare set of those three-pin connectors I can sell you cheaply, how about $6 including shipping? I'll have to look when I get home. You'd just have to splice the wires to the ones coming from your ballasts.

The only thing I'm not real clear on is how to connect to the high-beam connector (socket) on the ballasts. As I said, there's instructions for that floating around: check google and hidplanet. As for where you'd get a matching connector, I have no idea unfortunately. You might be able to just open up the ballast and solder directly to the circuit board at the appropriate points if you're skilled with a soldering iron (or have a friend who is).

donut.

awesome bro. thanks for the info. that cleared up the confusion. as for the connectors for the solenoid, im definitely interested. pm me when you find out if you have them and ill send cash over asap

i def gotta find the plugs for the back of the ballasts. always did wonder what those sockets were for cause im not familiar with these ballasts

donut.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of these is a standard 2-prong power connector socket for the ballast itself, and matches the connection on a standard Integra/Civic low-beam halogen bulb.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

so it takes a 9006 plug?


Modified by donut. at 7:25 PM 9/25/2007

-Bionic-

Flip those ballasts around. Clearly none of those three wires need to be connected.

If I recall correctly those use 9006 plugs. As far as the activation of the solenoid, tap it direcly into your highbeams.

Do you currently have H4, or 9006/9005?

dwolsten. You obviously have no clue who you are talking to. Show some respect.

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flip those ballasts around. Clearly none of those three wires need to be connected.

If I recall correctly those use 9006 plugs. As far as the activation of the solenoid, tap it direcly into your highbeams.

Do you currently have H4, or 9006/9005?

dwolsten. You obviously have no clue who you are talking to. Show some respect.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't deserve any respect, because you are clearly incompetent and are giving out bad advice. Get yourself an electrical engineering degree and then we can talk.

DO NOT connect the solenoid directly to your high beams.

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donut. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome bro. thanks for the info. that cleared up the confusion. as for the connectors for the solenoid, im definitely interested. pm me when you find out if you have them and ill send cash over asap

i def gotta find the plugs for the back of the ballasts. always did wonder what those sockets were for cause im not familiar with these ballasts </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I've got a spare set.

Here's a website I found that shows those ballasts:

http://www.digi-motive.com/garage/bosch1.php

In the second photo, it shows the 9006 connector. You can plug your low beams into that. However, if you have an Integra or Civic (or other car where the headlights have no relay, and are only switched by the headlight switch), it's highly recommended that you wire the HIDs with a relay and power wire connected directly to the battery through a 30A fuse. The reason for this is because the HID ballasts use a lot of current when they're cold, and the headlight switch wasn't designed for this. Over time, it will probably degrade the connections inside the switch and it'll fail.

However, the other connector, which has three pins, is the high-beam connector. I have a set of these ballasts myself (got them after designing my circuit), and just tested what I read on these pages below. All you have to do is connect +12V to the center pin on that 3-pin connector. This isn't that hard: just take the three Torx screws off the plastic part of the ballast, and then splice into the wire that corresponds to that center pin.

Here's a page discussing it:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com....html,

Here's a whole pago on HIDplanet discussing the e46 bixenon solenoid issue:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forum...t=138

I just measured the power consumption on my own projector, and the pull solenoid uses about 30 watts when energized. Think about how hot a 30W light bulb gets; this solenoid is quite small, so it should be pretty obvious that putting that much power into it, over a period of time, is not a good idea. The hold solenoid, by contrast, only uses about 3 watts. So please ignore Mr. "Bionic"; he may know something about using a Dremel, but he's obviously in over his head on electrical issues. You have all the parts you need already to do this job right and avoid any problems in the future.

-Bionic-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't deserve any respect, because you are clearly incompetent and are giving out bad advice. Get yourself an electrical engineering degree and then we can talk.

DO NOT connect the solenoid directly to your high beams.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are an ignorant turd.

donut.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here's a page discussing it:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com....html,
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i found that thread as well and makes alot more sense to me now than it did before. thanks again for the info. those links are a big help

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the activation of the solenoid, tap it direcly into your highbeams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive done a lot of research and everyone clearly said that this is the incorrect way to go about this.

i have h4h plugs but was able to pick up some 9006 connectors at pepboys. couldn't believe i went there on a wim and they had it. must've been my day

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are an ignorant turd. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You give out clearly bad advice, and then you call others "ignorant turd" when they correct you? It's you who is the ignorant one, and not in a harmless way either because you repeat bad advice even after being shown that it's incorrect, because your pride won't allow you to admit your mistake.

-Bionic-

It's other; hence you, not others.

This is wasteland...I don't read what others say, I know it first hand. There are many ways to activate a solenoid, one of which is what I am suggesting. Can you add 1000 relays and resistors? Yes, but why. I am giving you the most straightforward and cheapest way of doing it.

I work with HID retrofitting for a living. I know what I am saying.

dwolsten, I stand corrected, you arent a turd, but more like scat.


wasteland

dwolsten

Bionic, I don't care what you do for a living, you don't know what the hell you're talking about. Do you have a degree in electrical engineering? No? I thought not. I do, from Virginia Tech. Do you know anything about 3-phase power, power factor, leading/lagging currents, reactance, impedance, etc.? Then what the expletive makes you think you know jack **** about anything else electrical? I don't normally go around bragging about my education, but if you're stupid enough to challenge me in my own field, when you're nothing more than some idiot living in his parents' basement who uses a Dremel all day, then I'm forced to say something.

I already stated exactly why you DON'T activate these solenoids by just connecting them to the high beams. They dissipate over 30W of power! Do you even understand that? They'll work for a while that way, and fail within a short time.

"I work with HID retrofitting for a living. I know what I am saying."

You talk like this is some kind of great career. All you do is put headlights in the oven and use a Dremel to modify them. Big ******* Deal. How does that qualify you to speak authoritatively about anything electrical? There's better places that do the same thing, but they don't go around giving bad advice like you.

Since you're such an expert, can you tell me how the HID ballasts work? In exact detail? Can you draw me a basic schematic illustrating their principle of operation? What kind of ICs are typically used in an automotive HID ballast anyway? Do you know any brands or part numbers? What about when a ballast fails? Are you able to troubleshoot it and repair it? What kind of test equipment do you have to do that with?

Why do you continue to press this issue, when you are so clearly incompetent? And how old are you anyway, calling people scatological names?

You're pathetic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's other; hence you, not others.

This is wasteland...I don't read what others say, I know it first hand. There are many ways to activate a solenoid, one of which is what I am suggesting. Can you add 1000 relays and resistors? Yes, but why. I am giving you the most straightforward and cheapest way of doing it.

I work with HID retrofitting for a living. I know what I am saying.

dwolsten, I stand corrected, you arent a turd, but more like scat.

wasteland </TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by dwolsten at 10:38 AM 10/2/2007

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Alright let's clear this up. What dwolsten was talking about is correct. Bosch bi-xenon projectors with 3-wire solenoids DO NOT connect directly to the high beams. You can do this with Hella 2-wire bi-xenon projectors, but not Bosch 3-wire. You must wire in some sort of diode and relay setup, or get the circuit board that dwolsten is selling.

Bionic I've always been amazed by the work you guys do, but you can't expect to by right about everything ALL the time. People make mistakes, you just gotta get past it and move on.

-Bionic-

Patrick, I'm not full of pride here and feel that I can never be proven wrong.

Frankly, not that you broke it down, I think I have been making my point about something different from the angry college kid.

I know from what I am talking about is factual, and what he is saying holds true as well, and his way may be the better way. But I clearly stated that disregarding the second ground works, I didn't say it's the best option for the longevitivity of the solenoid; if that's the case, why not make an argument to add 10 more ground points. BUT I tell you what, we haven't done that many E46 bixenons; mainly because they are the worst performing bixenon, but we have run the wiring that way, and have done this over 5 years without a complaint. Thus, it works.


For everyone out there going to use the E46 bixenon projector. Use your best judgement...you have one side saying you can use one of the ground points and that's enough, but seriously, how difficult is it to ground the second one? Not hard at all right? And you are one of those extra careful people, then add more ground points. Hell use a zero guage wire. Run it directly to the battery, what ever makes you feel good.



lol, have a good day all. And that goes to dwolsten as well.