K24 EK
So after thinking of going h2b, I've decided to just go K24. It'll cost me only like a grand more. I've looked for the past 2 days and can't really seem to find anything on it. I know its possible to do a K24 swap because I've seen that much, but would it be basically the same parts needed for a 24 swap as a 20 swap? I'm finding K20 all over for the EK but every time I see a K24 its for the EP3. What exactly do I need? Does anyone have a build thread or something for this? I have a 98 EK Hatch already 5 Speed I'm not too worried about the money, I know it's gonna run me a good amount already.
From what I've read that it is actually the more sought after trans. There may have been fitting problems but there is probably a fix for it by now. I'll search more and let you know what I find
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dood, you have homework to do before you spend any money. 1. no lsd. 2. crap gearing 3. one less gear 4.see 1-3.
borrowed from azht. im tired.
Final drive determines what mph each gear ends at (and other things but lets keep it simple). For instance, 02-04 Type-S and 05-06 Type-S 6-speed have the same 1st-6th gear ratios BUT the 02-04 has a 4.389 FD and the 05-06 has a 4.764 FD. The higher the number, the shorter the final drive. The shorter the final drive, the lower the mph achieved in each gear. Remember this last part.
Gear ratios determine RPM drop between each gear (and other things but again, lets keep it simple). The greater the difference between the gears, the further the RPM's drop. For instance, 94-01 Integra LS and GSR share the same 1-2 ratio (3.23 and 1.9). However, they have different 3rd gear ratios (1.269 vs 1.36) thereby giving the GSR a better/closer 2-3 shift. The reason it is better is because the RPM's did not drop further than needed to accelerate in the next gear. ANY performance vehicle wants short/close gearing. That way, every time you shift, you do not fall below your powerband more than needed.
The number of gear selections determine how many times you shift to achieve maximum MPH, obviously. If you have a 5-speed, you're going to shift one less time than someone with a 6-speed. However, if both are trying to achieve the same maximum MPH, the 5-speed will have to sacrifice somewhere.
Here are the gear ratio's of both:
EP3
3.062 1st
1.769 2nd
1.212 3rd
0.921 4th
0.738 5th
4.764 FD
Type-S
3.266 1st
2.130 2nd
1.517 3rd
1.147 4th
0.921 5th
0.738 6th
4.389 FD or 4.764 FD
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6395
*notice how the EP3 4th and 5th gears are the same as the Type-S 5th and 6th gears*
So taking what I just explained, the EP3 trans and the 05-06 Type-S trans can achieve the same maximum MPH. However, the EP3 has to shift one less time than the Type-S. Therefore, because it has to shift one less time, it has to make up for the lack of that extra gear by having longer gears. The longer gears drop the vehicle out of its powerband with each shift. The Type-S has to spend fractions of a second shifting one more time. HOWEVER, it gains the advantage of not having RPM's dropping further than needed. Therefore, each shift is more useful than with the EP3 trans.
Now, take what I explained and apply that to the 02-04 Type-S trans. Yes, it has the same gearing as the 05-06 Type-S. HOWEVER, with the longer 4.389 FD, it can achieve a higher MPH IN EACH GEAR. Therefore, you gain the benefit of not having to shift as quickly (or run out of MPH as quickly) as you would with the 4.764 FD BUT YOU ALSO do not have the shitty gear ratios of the EP3 trans. Best of both worlds.
Cliff notes: shitty gearing sucks, good gearing rules, if you're boosted you should have good gearing and adjust your MPH with a longer final drive.
Also, plug in these gear ratios manually at: http://www.zealautowerks.com/transcalc.php
borrowed from azht. im tired.
Final drive determines what mph each gear ends at (and other things but lets keep it simple). For instance, 02-04 Type-S and 05-06 Type-S 6-speed have the same 1st-6th gear ratios BUT the 02-04 has a 4.389 FD and the 05-06 has a 4.764 FD. The higher the number, the shorter the final drive. The shorter the final drive, the lower the mph achieved in each gear. Remember this last part.
Gear ratios determine RPM drop between each gear (and other things but again, lets keep it simple). The greater the difference between the gears, the further the RPM's drop. For instance, 94-01 Integra LS and GSR share the same 1-2 ratio (3.23 and 1.9). However, they have different 3rd gear ratios (1.269 vs 1.36) thereby giving the GSR a better/closer 2-3 shift. The reason it is better is because the RPM's did not drop further than needed to accelerate in the next gear. ANY performance vehicle wants short/close gearing. That way, every time you shift, you do not fall below your powerband more than needed.
The number of gear selections determine how many times you shift to achieve maximum MPH, obviously. If you have a 5-speed, you're going to shift one less time than someone with a 6-speed. However, if both are trying to achieve the same maximum MPH, the 5-speed will have to sacrifice somewhere.
Here are the gear ratio's of both:
EP3
3.062 1st
1.769 2nd
1.212 3rd
0.921 4th
0.738 5th
4.764 FD
Type-S
3.266 1st
2.130 2nd
1.517 3rd
1.147 4th
0.921 5th
0.738 6th
4.389 FD or 4.764 FD
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6395
*notice how the EP3 4th and 5th gears are the same as the Type-S 5th and 6th gears*
So taking what I just explained, the EP3 trans and the 05-06 Type-S trans can achieve the same maximum MPH. However, the EP3 has to shift one less time than the Type-S. Therefore, because it has to shift one less time, it has to make up for the lack of that extra gear by having longer gears. The longer gears drop the vehicle out of its powerband with each shift. The Type-S has to spend fractions of a second shifting one more time. HOWEVER, it gains the advantage of not having RPM's dropping further than needed. Therefore, each shift is more useful than with the EP3 trans.
Now, take what I explained and apply that to the 02-04 Type-S trans. Yes, it has the same gearing as the 05-06 Type-S. HOWEVER, with the longer 4.389 FD, it can achieve a higher MPH IN EACH GEAR. Therefore, you gain the benefit of not having to shift as quickly (or run out of MPH as quickly) as you would with the 4.764 FD BUT YOU ALSO do not have the shitty gear ratios of the EP3 trans. Best of both worlds.
Cliff notes: shitty gearing sucks, good gearing rules, if you're boosted you should have good gearing and adjust your MPH with a longer final drive.
Also, plug in these gear ratios manually at: http://www.zealautowerks.com/transcalc.php
If you loved me, you'd all sell me your magic cards to me today



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,700
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From: Atlantic Ocean Florida
I was going to go k24 but for the money you can have so much more. Gl though and read a ton of the information that is out there.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
OP...a K24 swap does not cost "only a grand more" than a H2B swap.
A well done K swap is upwards of $8-10k.
As far as the trans goes, most mount kits want you to use a 2.0L trans. The one from a 06-11 Si is going to be your best bet. It's the only USDM K series trans with a LSD (except the 9G Si).
Also, the TSX and the 8G Si both share a 4.7 FD, but the Si has better/shorter/closer gearing 1-4. Same 5th and 6th gears as the TSX.
The k24a2 from 06-08 is the one you want to look for if you do want a K24 swap.
A well done K swap is upwards of $8-10k.
As far as the trans goes, most mount kits want you to use a 2.0L trans. The one from a 06-11 Si is going to be your best bet. It's the only USDM K series trans with a LSD (except the 9G Si).
Also, the TSX and the 8G Si both share a 4.7 FD, but the Si has better/shorter/closer gearing 1-4. Same 5th and 6th gears as the TSX.
The k24a2 from 06-08 is the one you want to look for if you do want a K24 swap.
You can also go k24 frank (k20 head/ k24 block)..make sure you do plenty of research. It does get expensive and im speaking from experience. Good luck with everything and(if possible)keep a spare transmission on hand, you'll thank me later.
If you loved me, you'd all sell me your magic cards to me today



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,700
Likes: 0
From: Atlantic Ocean Florida
I also noticed OP is in California. OP are you aware of what it takes to make a swap legal there? I know that there are legal K series swaps but I believe it is much more difficult than a B series.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Judging by the post....it's safe to assume that this will NEVER come to fruition. But it's good info for future reference or other posters.
Or you can buy this car below, not a far drive from California to Phoenix. It got a fully built K24a4 block with a k20z3 head, he is asking 9500 obo for the entire car.
You can by his car and sell yours or by his car and swap everything over to yours. This car is running all motor 11's..
http://www.azht.net/forum/showthread.php?t=196888
You can by his car and sell yours or by his car and swap everything over to yours. This car is running all motor 11's..
http://www.azht.net/forum/showthread.php?t=196888
EP3 trans is good if you plan to turbo because it has longer gear ratios help stay in boost longer otherwise get yourself a 6spd trans from a rsx type s..i have a k24/k20 boosted with a 5spd EP3 trans with the addition of tsx 6gear and LSD added..i can tell you this a Kswap aint gonna be cheap if you want it done right
When using factory-available gearings, shorter is better. Period. It doesn't matter if you're turbo, NA, high compression, low compression, or shoved a bunch of body building hamsters in your engine to push the cylinders up and down by paw. Shorter gearing (within reason) = better acceleration, period. Staying within reason is easily accomplished when your only options are OEM gear ratios.
It all depends on how you want to do your swap, using OEM components to do your swap will be cheaper in the end but eventually you'll end up replacing those items anyway so you'll spend more anyways. To do everything properly the first time will cost anywhere from $6k and up depending on motor/tranny/mounts etc.
If I were to do it again I would just buy a complete K20a2 swap from a reputable shop (HMO) and go from there. When piecing a swap together people lose sight of all of the little **** they need to buy in order to finish a swap, sure you can buy a motor/tranny/mounts etc all separate, but it's the starter, alternator, wiring harness, charge harness, ecu, sensors that are going to hurt.
If I were to do it again I would just buy a complete K20a2 swap from a reputable shop (HMO) and go from there. When piecing a swap together people lose sight of all of the little **** they need to buy in order to finish a swap, sure you can buy a motor/tranny/mounts etc all separate, but it's the starter, alternator, wiring harness, charge harness, ecu, sensors that are going to hurt.
I'm military. My car wouldn't have to follow Cali laws for emmisions thank god. I just use my home of record and get plates from there
It all depends on how you want to do your swap, using OEM components to do your swap will be cheaper in the end but eventually you'll end up replacing those items anyway so you'll spend more anyways. To do everything properly the first time will cost anywhere from $6k and up depending on motor/tranny/mounts etc.
If I were to do it again I would just buy a complete K20a2 swap from a reputable shop (HMO) and go from there. When piecing a swap together people lose sight of all of the little **** they need to buy in order to finish a swap, sure you can buy a motor/tranny/mounts etc all separate, but it's the starter, alternator, wiring harness, charge harness, ecu, sensors that are going to hurt.
If I were to do it again I would just buy a complete K20a2 swap from a reputable shop (HMO) and go from there. When piecing a swap together people lose sight of all of the little **** they need to buy in order to finish a swap, sure you can buy a motor/tranny/mounts etc all separate, but it's the starter, alternator, wiring harness, charge harness, ecu, sensors that are going to hurt.
No confindence =/ I'm guessing that happens a lot. I'm definitely doing it. I have no reason not to. I bought the ek for the sole purpose of learning my way around it. I don't plan on keeping the D16 because it has a **** ton of miles on it, so I might as well do a swap. This car isn't going to be a track car, just a car I want to last me a while and that I can have fun with. I had an 06 si and "upgraded" to the 2013 si, but hated it. I love the way the K drives thats why I'm going with the swap.



