Building The Engine On The EP3
Hi Guys,
I am about to invest on my engine to build a beast!
I would like comments, suggestions, or conflicts in my choices.
Mounted On A new cylinder head, using the original block.
Parts List :
Carillo H-Beam Connecting Rods
Buddy Club Spec 5 Racing Cams
Buddy Club Racing Cam Gears
Buddy Club Racing Titanium Valve Springs
Buddy Club Racing Spec Titanium Retainers
Supertech Pistons
Supertech Valve Guides
Blox Cam Seal
---------------------------------------------------
Connecting Rods
1000.08$
Reference: HorsePowerFreaks.com
Carrillo Pro H-Beam Connecting Rods
Carrillo is often asked about general horsepower ratings for the various designs of its connecting rods. Unfortunately, this cannot be answered in a simple way. The most relevant rod design parameters are Inertia forces (a function of engine speed, crank train geometry and assembly weights) and Cylinder firing pressure (tuning, fuel, boost, etc.). Through increased engine speed, displacement, firing pressure or a combination thereof, horsepower is gained. However, through the various changes in the cycle, the demand on the rods varies greatly. Moreover, extreme dynamic loads on the drive train such as intermittently free spinning wheels or propellers (Hill Climb races, Off-Shore boat races) should be considered the when making the right choice of rod.
The strong Tapered H-beam configuration can handle extreme engine loads. The tapered beam allows for some weight saving on the reciprocation end and gives increased clearance for fully boxed pistons.
The Straight H-beam is the stoutest beam configuration available. It is capable of handling the most abusive forces in an engine.
Notes (1) H-11 Tool Steel Bolts
(2) CARR Multiphase Steel Bolts
(3) PE Hone can be increased to .946 for stock pin
Straight Blade unless otherwise noted
Buddy Club Racing Spec Cam Shaft K20 Spec IV (Pair)
722.50$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Developed, tested and proven by Buddy Club's own race teams and engineers, the Racing Spec 5 camshafts are absolutely the most aggressive design in camshaft technology available today.
Utilizing Buddy Club's patent pending lobe forming technology was used to increase low to mid-range torque and yet have an astonishing 12.8mm lift for explosive high-end power! These cams do not sacrifice low end power for top end gain!
This is unlinke anything you have experieneced before.
Buddy Club Racing Spec Cam Gear - K20 (Pair)
339.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Buddy Club P-1 Racing Cam Gears allows precise tuning of camshaft timing, which is an essential tool when using any aftermarket performance camshaft. P1 Racing cam gears are made from forged AL7075-T6 aircraft aluminum which are the strongest and lightest adjustable cam gears on the market today.
Blox Billet Cam Seal
10.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Supertech High Performance Forged Pistons
390.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Supertech pistons are manufactured from extruded high silicon, enhanced 4032 alloy (with additional Cu, Ni & Mg) that has low thermal expansion, excellent wear resistance and higher thermal conductivity. More details...
Supertech Bronze Valve Guides
64.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Supertech Valve guides are precision-machined from high quality Magnesium Bronze material.
Buddy Club Racing Spec Titanium Retainers - K20/24
288.15$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Buddy Club P1 Racing Titanium valve retainers are designed to reduce overall valve train mass and yet provide excellent strength for high-revving engines with high lift cams. It is specially coated with PVD black nitride friction reducing coating to reduce wear and achieve a hard surface as diamond, which will last up to 3x longer than uncoated retainers.
Buddy Club Racing Spec Valve Springs - K20/24
204.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Hasport Motor Mount
404.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Hasport motor mounts will provide you with the highest quality mount, and fit like no other.
I am about to invest on my engine to build a beast!
I would like comments, suggestions, or conflicts in my choices.
Mounted On A new cylinder head, using the original block.
Parts List :
Carillo H-Beam Connecting Rods
Buddy Club Spec 5 Racing Cams
Buddy Club Racing Cam Gears
Buddy Club Racing Titanium Valve Springs
Buddy Club Racing Spec Titanium Retainers
Supertech Pistons
Supertech Valve Guides
Blox Cam Seal
---------------------------------------------------
Connecting Rods
1000.08$
Reference: HorsePowerFreaks.com
Carrillo Pro H-Beam Connecting Rods
Carrillo is often asked about general horsepower ratings for the various designs of its connecting rods. Unfortunately, this cannot be answered in a simple way. The most relevant rod design parameters are Inertia forces (a function of engine speed, crank train geometry and assembly weights) and Cylinder firing pressure (tuning, fuel, boost, etc.). Through increased engine speed, displacement, firing pressure or a combination thereof, horsepower is gained. However, through the various changes in the cycle, the demand on the rods varies greatly. Moreover, extreme dynamic loads on the drive train such as intermittently free spinning wheels or propellers (Hill Climb races, Off-Shore boat races) should be considered the when making the right choice of rod.
The strong Tapered H-beam configuration can handle extreme engine loads. The tapered beam allows for some weight saving on the reciprocation end and gives increased clearance for fully boxed pistons.
The Straight H-beam is the stoutest beam configuration available. It is capable of handling the most abusive forces in an engine.
Notes (1) H-11 Tool Steel Bolts
(2) CARR Multiphase Steel Bolts
(3) PE Hone can be increased to .946 for stock pin
Straight Blade unless otherwise noted
Buddy Club Racing Spec Cam Shaft K20 Spec IV (Pair)
722.50$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Developed, tested and proven by Buddy Club's own race teams and engineers, the Racing Spec 5 camshafts are absolutely the most aggressive design in camshaft technology available today.
Utilizing Buddy Club's patent pending lobe forming technology was used to increase low to mid-range torque and yet have an astonishing 12.8mm lift for explosive high-end power! These cams do not sacrifice low end power for top end gain!
This is unlinke anything you have experieneced before.
Buddy Club Racing Spec Cam Gear - K20 (Pair)
339.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Buddy Club P-1 Racing Cam Gears allows precise tuning of camshaft timing, which is an essential tool when using any aftermarket performance camshaft. P1 Racing cam gears are made from forged AL7075-T6 aircraft aluminum which are the strongest and lightest adjustable cam gears on the market today.
Blox Billet Cam Seal
10.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Supertech High Performance Forged Pistons
390.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Supertech pistons are manufactured from extruded high silicon, enhanced 4032 alloy (with additional Cu, Ni & Mg) that has low thermal expansion, excellent wear resistance and higher thermal conductivity. More details...
Supertech Bronze Valve Guides
64.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Supertech Valve guides are precision-machined from high quality Magnesium Bronze material.
Buddy Club Racing Spec Titanium Retainers - K20/24
288.15$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Buddy Club P1 Racing Titanium valve retainers are designed to reduce overall valve train mass and yet provide excellent strength for high-revving engines with high lift cams. It is specially coated with PVD black nitride friction reducing coating to reduce wear and achieve a hard surface as diamond, which will last up to 3x longer than uncoated retainers.
Buddy Club Racing Spec Valve Springs - K20/24
204.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Hasport Motor Mount
404.00$
Reference : JHPUSA.COM
Hasport motor mounts will provide you with the highest quality mount, and fit like no other.
Ok so can you explain the difference! Is the block of the a2 easily fitted on a civic hatch? What is the difference why would you choose the a2 over the a3? This is my first engine overhauling so i was hopping on having some input from others...Would the conversion be possible? Thanks!
If you going to spend that much ammount of money I will spend it on this
k24a2 longblock $1500 if you go to k20a.org you will find one
kpro 800 to 900 used
header it's 500 get the kid racing header
2.5 to 3.0 in ex about 300
intake 150
rbc 190 new from honda
type s trans 700 to 900 try to get the new civic si trans comes w LSD and 4.7 final drive
cams this will be personal preference if u want to stay oem get the 06 tsx cams aftermarket get any stage 2 don't forget the valvetrain
k24a2 longblock $1500 if you go to k20a.org you will find one
kpro 800 to 900 used
header it's 500 get the kid racing header
2.5 to 3.0 in ex about 300
intake 150
rbc 190 new from honda
type s trans 700 to 900 try to get the new civic si trans comes w LSD and 4.7 final drive
cams this will be personal preference if u want to stay oem get the 06 tsx cams aftermarket get any stage 2 don't forget the valvetrain
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If this is a car that you are going to be using for daily driving, then I think most of us would say to either (1)put a mild turbo on a stock K20A3, or (2)look at a K20A2 or K24 hybrid for building.
In your parts list you didn't mention anything about a computer, and I wonder what it is you're going to do with the valve train to be able to use the cams in your parts list.
Again, I don't want to sound like I am any kind of scientist, but please don't spend money until you've done a little more research.
:-)
Well I know that it is a decision that has to be weighed carefully. I have already invested quite a bit on handling.
I was expecting to do the engine next year so figured I had time to do it.
But my driving caught up with my engine just a few days ago so I started to work on this shopping list that I am not comfortable with at this point I figured I would turn to the real speed freaks and build a beast. I am now thinking more along the lines of a k20a2 conversion. I understand that the a3 was designed for fuel economy and not power. Replace the cylinder head on my a3 then switch engines if this is possible but I have seen conversion kits and I think this might be the way to go.
Saw one for 2400.00$ CND including ecu transmission and front axle.
In this scenario I would consider the Brian Crower, stroker kit.
Since it is an nice and simple assembly.
I really want to try those cams they look like they can handle quite a beating.
So this leaves electronics. I was wondering if a piggy back was sufficient like a Greddy pro-manage, at this point budget becomes a factor. Leaving only like +- 1k to complete the job.
Now when it come to driving on the road? Well I was hopping to try to dodge the cops for as long as possible at witch point i would like to use it for track only. I mean this is Canada and the laws are forgiving so let's enjoy it!!!
But to tell you the truth I am hopping to get help in making this decision.
I guess the flywheel would fit?
I have in the car:
AEM V2 Cold air intake
NOLOGY Hotwires
DC Sports Stainless race header.
Tanabe Hyper Medallion Exhaust and cat (Sounds Deep).
Function 7 Rear lower control arms.
Rear Neuspeed Sway Bar with sub frame brace
Rear Neuspeed HBeam Lower Tie Bar
Neuspeed rear Strut Bar
Neuspeed Front Sub frame brace
Front Tanabe Strut bar
Tokico shocks
Eibach proline springs
Wicked camber kit
Momo Corse 17" ultra light 17.5 lbs
Unorthodox racing crank pulley
Aluminum intercooler
AEM Fuel Rail
Buddy club short trow sifter
Brembo rotors
ACT Prolite flywheel
Exeddy 5 puck clutch
Carbon Fiber hood
It is now fit to handle power. Tell me your impression regarding this option.
I wonder about the headers and the intake. Better yet what would you do to change this ride into a beast with one stock engine and drive train and <6k
Would a pre-built engine be a solution?
I have to make a decision but i wonder what to do?
Thanks guys!
Thanks
I was expecting to do the engine next year so figured I had time to do it.
But my driving caught up with my engine just a few days ago so I started to work on this shopping list that I am not comfortable with at this point I figured I would turn to the real speed freaks and build a beast. I am now thinking more along the lines of a k20a2 conversion. I understand that the a3 was designed for fuel economy and not power. Replace the cylinder head on my a3 then switch engines if this is possible but I have seen conversion kits and I think this might be the way to go.
Saw one for 2400.00$ CND including ecu transmission and front axle.
In this scenario I would consider the Brian Crower, stroker kit.
Since it is an nice and simple assembly.
I really want to try those cams they look like they can handle quite a beating.
So this leaves electronics. I was wondering if a piggy back was sufficient like a Greddy pro-manage, at this point budget becomes a factor. Leaving only like +- 1k to complete the job.
Now when it come to driving on the road? Well I was hopping to try to dodge the cops for as long as possible at witch point i would like to use it for track only. I mean this is Canada and the laws are forgiving so let's enjoy it!!!
But to tell you the truth I am hopping to get help in making this decision.
I guess the flywheel would fit?
I have in the car:
AEM V2 Cold air intake
NOLOGY Hotwires
DC Sports Stainless race header.
Tanabe Hyper Medallion Exhaust and cat (Sounds Deep).
Function 7 Rear lower control arms.
Rear Neuspeed Sway Bar with sub frame brace
Rear Neuspeed HBeam Lower Tie Bar
Neuspeed rear Strut Bar
Neuspeed Front Sub frame brace
Front Tanabe Strut bar
Tokico shocks
Eibach proline springs
Wicked camber kit
Momo Corse 17" ultra light 17.5 lbs
Unorthodox racing crank pulley
Aluminum intercooler
AEM Fuel Rail
Buddy club short trow sifter
Brembo rotors
ACT Prolite flywheel
Exeddy 5 puck clutch
Carbon Fiber hood
It is now fit to handle power. Tell me your impression regarding this option.
I wonder about the headers and the intake. Better yet what would you do to change this ride into a beast with one stock engine and drive train and <6k
Would a pre-built engine be a solution?
I have to make a decision but i wonder what to do?
Thanks guys!
Thanks
If you going to spend that much ammount of money I will spend it on this
Why the k24a2 over the k20a2?
The inconvenience I see is the newer more expensive after market parts
k24a2 longblock $1500 if you go to k20a.org you will find one
kpro 800 to 900 used
Would the header from the k20a3 fit an a2? I have a racing header already.
Or how would a k24 header fit in my compact housing?
header it's 500 get the kid racing header
I am not sure what 2.5 to 3.0
2.5 to 3.0 in ex about 300
intake 150
What is an rbc?
rbc 190 new from honda
type s trans 700 to 900 try to get the new civic si trans comes w LSD and 4.7 final drive
cams this will be personal preference if u want to stay oem get the 06 tsx cams aftermarket get any stage 2 don't forget the valvetrain
Why the k24a2 over the k20a2?
The inconvenience I see is the newer more expensive after market parts
k24a2 longblock $1500 if you go to k20a.org you will find one
kpro 800 to 900 used
Would the header from the k20a3 fit an a2? I have a racing header already.
Or how would a k24 header fit in my compact housing?
header it's 500 get the kid racing header
I am not sure what 2.5 to 3.0
2.5 to 3.0 in ex about 300
intake 150
What is an rbc?
rbc 190 new from honda
type s trans 700 to 900 try to get the new civic si trans comes w LSD and 4.7 final drive
cams this will be personal preference if u want to stay oem get the 06 tsx cams aftermarket get any stage 2 don't forget the valvetrain
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