finishing up my jdm gsr swap in a 92 dx, wired everything up right to the ecu.. and when vtec is supposed to hit i get a check engine light.. its a 21 (solanoid).. take off the solanoid.. the screen is clean.. the only thing that we questioned when wiring it up is the grounds from the vtec pressure .. it had 2 wires going out but then it did a "T" and split off to 3 wires.. we only imagined that it was another ground.. we grounded both black wires and assumed the blue was the power..

 

have you checked this thread yet by kamin? its a list of common things that could be wrong stopping vtec from working.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=164863

 

ya.. its not any of those problems.... :/

 

blue black wire is the vtec oil pressure sensor i thought you don't have to wire that up cuz jdm ecu's don't look for that but i wired it anyway directly to the ECU

 

ya thats the one that is bieng brought to the ecu.. i was thinkin blue, but its blue/black.. i did take a wire from my + terminal and hit the solenoid, it does "click" i have enough oil.. temperatures are right...

woudl this have anything to do with it? my radiator fan isnt kicking on.. and the temp meter is well over half way when idle.. my heat doesnt work unless im in gear and driving around.. i have replaced the thermostat.. got a delsol dual core radiator and replaced my heating hose, upper and lower radiator hose..

 

so your getting a CEL 21 when vtec is supposed to engage?
replace the solenoid with one you KNOW vtec works on

 

ya.. thats what im doing tomarrow... whats with the split ground on the vtec pressure??

 

ttt

 

did you replace your solenoid yet?

 

yea, that wasnt it either

 

i still have 87 gas in my car due to the previous engine.. could that be causing it?

 

i highly dobut it
did your code 21 go away yet?

 

nope..... im lost...

 

 

 

with those symptoms it sounds like a bad waterpump or something....does anybody know a troubleshooting tip to see if it's working? you might want to check that out??

 

Double check your Vtec wire. Make sure your vtec wire has continuity from the plug at the solednoid to the wire at the ecu by unpinning it . check for a broken pin . How did you wire it up? Did you try to pin it through the connector at the strut mount and try to do it like the factory and misplace the pin in the wrong location. what gauge and what grade wire did you use, Check if you soldier the wire if it had too much soldier and if its actually the flux inside caused a resistance. Did your crimp go bad. Check the actual pin at the solenoid and see if its bad. Do a continuity test on the solenoid by actually stripping a section of wire near the end of the wire that goes to the solenoid and check it. If you want to test the solenoid the with the car off put your ear near the solenoid and run a wire to the soleniod and just tap it to the battery's posotive terminal not too long. You should then hear a click. the have a freind rev the car 4000-5000 rpm and the just for a second put the solenoid wire to the posotive terminal. You should hear the vtec engauge the lost motion assembly. That teltale vtec noise should be aparant to you. If everything is still no good put the ecu in another car the the code should be gone unless its a singlecam car then in that case you just get a knock sensor code. if that fails then I will research this some more but I never heard of it not working unless the car alreadr had something like a vtec controler and the cut the wire in the wrong place,I only saw that once and the dude cut and tapped the wire way up the harness damnnear to the firewall grommet. If you still dont get results call me on Tuesdaybetween 9AM est and 6PM est but not between 1-2 PM because thats my lunch and I wont be there. I will run over more technical procedures you can try. My name is Hugh and I work at Mahdavimotorsport's in Atlanta the number is 770-923-1550 and tell whoever answers its a question from Honda-tech and I will fax you what ever diagnostic troubleshooting procedure you need free.

 

Ive got a similar problem. I have no V-tec when my engine is cold, and the rev-limiter hits at 7200 rpm's. once the engine warms up im fine thoug... weird

 

um thats because its supposed to do that
it protects the engine because ITS COLD.
dont go near vtec till the car is fully warm.

 

ok so what if the code 22 is on as soon as u turn the ignition on ive used two different ecus and they both send the code please help thanx adam


[Modified by b18vtec, 9:09 PM 12/24/2002]

 

It means there is an open circuit going to the Oil presure switch
OR
oil persure switch is broken.
Check continuity on the wires and the 2 wires from the Oil presure switch.