Rodney112

Well pulled my head off to get it rebuilt with skunk 2 dual springs and blox valves. So heres the deal I got the head back on adjusting everything and got code 1 for the o2 sensor, the thing is my ecu is chipped for not having the ecu. Could my car sitting for around a month with out the battery hooked up reset the chip? It idles at like 2400 and kinda jumps around a little and doesn't sound healthy.. I also put a skunk2 intake manifold on it to.... Any help would be awesome.. Please no trolls about me not knowing what I'm doing it not my first time doing this just need help.

Rodney112

Update: got my chip reburned now all my cels are gone but still having major issues, sluggish as all hell had to drop down to first to make it up a hill... it idles at like 250rpms and anytime I give it gas it just dies unless I just sit there and mess with the throttle and it revs but very slowly it revs up

Rodney112

So update I got it to run a lot better but it's still slower then what it was, I got it remapped and swapped out the distributor... now my problem is i don't think vtec is engaging because before I rebuilt the head it would push me back in my seat and now I can't even hear the exhaust change pitch.... I'm stumped and this thing is really starting to **** me off.. any help would be greatly appreciated judging by the 150 views someone's gotta know something. The specs again are a b16a, greddy header, skunk2 manifold, blox racing valves, skunk2 dual valve springs, ti retainers, and itr cam....
im debating on putting the stock intake manifold back on and see if it makes it run better...

SIR-G Amp

What did you set your valve lash to?

-Amp

Rodney112

.07 intake and .08 exhaust... that's what I found on post on here any way should I tighten up my valve lash?

SIR-G Amp

Were those specs in inch or mm?

Clearance
Intake: 0.15 - 0.19 mm (0.006 - 0.007 inch)
Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.21 mm (0.007 - 0.008 inch)

-Amp

Rodney112

Yes those were the specs and my bad I set them .007 and .008 should I do tighten them up a little? I think my vtec pressure sensor isn't getting a good reading and that's why vtec isn't cracking.... it's weird tho cause I have no cel at all

SIR-G Amp

Absolutely not. Maybe double check to make sure they are correct and then move on. You can manually ground the vtec solenoid to see if vtec is engaging. The single wire coming from the solenoid when grounded will move the spool valve. Just make sure when you check this the car is running and held around 3k. Or, you can check it off to make sure it's even engaging, but this won't confirm if the pins are sliding.

-Amp

Rodney112

Thank you so much I'll give it a try tomarrow and let you know what happens

Rodney112

So check vtec it's engaging figured i would check my timing one last time and found out it's off... my distributor is fully advanced and it's not enough advancement, I have a timing light so I checked it that way and it's sitting between 0 and the 16 degree mark.... now my question is how do I get more advancement even tho my dizzy is fully advanced.

SIR-G Amp

There is no reason you should really even have to clock the distributor much more than normal. I have an LSvtec and my distributor is still almost centered. You should recheck your physical timing marks and your belt. Make sure you lined the crank up with the proper dot as there are multiple on the factory crank.

-Amp

Rodney112

I figured it out my crank was one tooth off... and In the factory manual it says to set your dizzy to 16 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees and ines I corrected the timing it runs great... thanks again for all your help amp

SIR-G Amp

Glad you got it figured out man!

-Amp