i know this isn't a hybrid questions but this is the only place that people have stripped cars. the question is: how the hell do i get the noise dampin/insulation crap or watever it is off? it's the grey pad thing thas on the floor after you rip off the carpet. i tryed to scrap it off w/ a screw driver but that takes forever! any shortcuts? hella need HELP!

 

i heard you just heat it up with a heat gun, then it will just unstick and come up.

 

i've actually heard of people who got dry ice to freeze that crap and then break it off but a heat gun sounds reasonable too. so which one is better? heat or cold?

 

i think the dry ice one is probably a bad idea...i would just use a heat gun and a wide gasket scraper tool, much easier to find than dry ice.

 

I did it the scraping way, hard work. I never tried the heat gun it sounds reasonable. but I always wanted to try dry ice and alcohol mixture. Don't try it thats what I heard of some people using.

 

has anyone ACTUALLY used dry ice or a heat gun to remove that crap? getting dry ice isn't going to be much of a problem but does it actually work good? and if i use a heat gun isn't all that sticky crap gonna be left behind?

 

DING DING DING

I've stripped about 8 cars of the sound deadening marterial.

Both methods work...

but the heat gun is a bitch. You'll have blisters and your floor boards will be coated with thin patches of "tar" that are next to impossible to get off without A LOT of spare time and cleaner. if you go this route, get it to the point where it is almost bubbling... then use a metal scraper (putty knife, chisel, old pry bar, etc...) to scrape it off.

dry ice works much better than heat, and it's not as dangerous as so many people think. in fact, i'd safe it is safer than the heat just b/c the melted tar will stick to you like glue if you touch it... the dry ice won't stick and burn you. I found a small pry bar or chisel works best... even a flat head screw driver.

the BEST way to do this... is to wait for a COLD night. Then just get 2 buddies and all grab flat heads or chisels or prybars and a hammer each... and just tap it all off in chunks. It is much easier than playing with dry ice.. and it's free.

Good luck

 

Damn im the only (Wannabe hybrid) guy who is trying to deadin my car to get rid of all that rudkus.

 

i had good luck with dry ice on the three cars i've done.

 

I'm actually in the process right now. I would'nt go the heat way though, Too messy. You definetly should go the Dry ice / Cold night route. I've just been using a paint scraper and hammer. Comes off pretty quick.
Good luck..............

 

I used a heat gun and then grind it off. It looks good like hell. If any pic let me know. Later
jason phan

 

i have a grinder at home and i'm thinking about repainting the WHOLE interior anyways so would it be better/easier to use a heat gun and then grind all the crap off or is it still easier to use the cold/ice method? does the ice method still leave all that crap behind? so is it CLEAN? thanx

 

I did it when it was cold out. Not even that cold, Florida cold! Like 40 degrees, and it came off in about 3-4 inch squares, but its a bitch around the plugs in the hatch area. The stuff under the front seats is the hardest to get off since its so thick, but the rear is cake.

 

yeah... i would HIGHLY discourage the grinder. All that is going to do is gash and scar the metal, and leave behind most of the tar. Just do the cold night method. Don't try to get creatie. If there was an easier way, I would have told you... believe me, i've put a lot of thought in this.

Please post some pics of your srtipped interiors... and let us know what method you used. the col night/ice method won't leave behind a residue like trhe heat gun method.

 

Definetly go with a paint scraper and a hammer. I did the whole front floor boards(the thick stuff) in about 45min. Just don't hit it too hard and put a hole in the floor like i did........
(It's just a little hole)

Edit- I'll post some pics after i'm finished painting and crap......


[Modified by JV, 11:28 PM 3/3/2002]

 

freeze the **** and chip it off.

 

i tried both on my car... took me about a week to finish one side slowly but surely when i had time with the heat gun... did the other side with dry ice in 20 minutes... freeze the stuff and tap it with a hammer. comes up a ton cleaner too.


[Modified by 88crxoncrack, 1:59 AM 3/4/2002]

 

i used a big flat head that was nice and wide with a BFH. after all the big chucks were gone, i used a scraper to get all the little chuncks. i removed the rest of the residue with 3M adhesive remover. all in all it took about ten hours of my life, and that was with a GOOD friend helping me. it came out real clean tho.

 

-Dry Ice
-Putty knife
-Time

= less smell
= cleaner removal
= an excuse to go by the "dry ice" place and pick up some "fun stuff"

Will
-who wore gloves

 

Just out of curiousity, has anyone weighed the tar afterward? I don't want to say this for sure, but I think my friend told me that his weighed something right under 2 pounds. I could be wrong, but if that's the case, is it worth it?

 

~25-30 lbs. from a 2 seater RX-7

Will

 

2 lbs??!! He must either be very strong or be very stupid or c doesnt know how to wiegh in lbs.

In my four door it was more like 35-40lbs....this is talking off Everything

 

i used a heat gun and paint scraper for my hatch. it works the best i believe. my friend w/ an integra used dry ice and it looked like crap when he was done. the key is this: don't put the heat gun right next to the tar crap, that will make it too soft and liquidy. you just need to heat it up some and then it will come up in big pieces. before i decided to break open the wallet and go get a heat gun, i was using my mom's hair dryer. it worked pretty darn good, although mom was pissed cuz i got the black tar crap all over it. once you get the majority of the sound deadening off, there will still be small pieces left and some dark residue type stuff that will take you forever w/ the paint scraper. get a box of shop paper towels (the kind that you use and throw away) and some liquid wrench. spray on the liquid wrench, let it sit for a sec or two, then proceed to wipe up all the left over crap w/ the towels. mine looks really nice now using this method. it looks like there was never any sound deadening there. hope this helps.

 

oh yea, i would say that it ALL, weighed about 40 pounds. i stripped out everything under the carpet on the floor, and also scraped it off of the fire wall and took off that foam sound deading stuff on the fire wall. i'm not done w/ the swap, (b16 into an '88 hatch) but i would say it's probably gonna be pretty loud inside the car w/ all of it gone. sweeeeet! haha

 

I called him and asked. He said his was just under 17 pounds for the whole car. It was a 90 integra. He said that when he told me 2 lbs he was saying he had taken that much out already and he had just started. I guess I don't listen too well. I just remember him showing me a bag of crap and saying it was 2lbs worth of deading. My bad.