lets says both stock which 1 is faster?
Which would u guys prefer?

 

b20 vtec has more displacement and is basically the same as an ls

 

LS/VTEC is the way to go! (more reliable cause the LS's block's sleves are more durable) but if your getting a B20 block sleved your good to go

 

If it were me I would prefer the ls vtec, just cuz I am gonna get an ls motor already due to a very good price.

 

i like the CRVtec cuz it sounds better. just kiddin, with a b16 head and b20 block you can put numbers down like the c5....or atleast somewhere close. but which ever motor you build your goin to have to get the gsr crank or itr crank to better suit the high rpms. the b1 and b20 cranks arent made for 8k on the tach. thats if youre going to be beatin it hard alot. but i would definitely get a better crank...

justin

 

B20Z/PR3-2=good stuff
Greg S.


Modified by lsi crx at 10:32 PM 4/28/2004


Modified by lsi crx at 10:32 PM 4/28/2004

 

What would be the connecting rods to use with a CRVtec with a GSR crank.

 

B20 Vtec is way better. More power and tq. Plus less people have them.

 

i went with a LSvtec cause i heard that u couldnt resleeve the B20 blocks as good as a LS block...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nohondayet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but which ever motor you build your goin to have to get the gsr crank or itr crank to better suit the high rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that the idea behind a LSVTEC was to take advatage of the longer LS stroke. And second you can build and balance a LS to spin to 8500 rpm no problems.

 

go crvtec. you can get about 189 at the wheels with a b16 head...do it

 

Ya thats right, one a LS bottom end, you want to use your LS crank, and connecting rods.

And I think everyone has mistaken his question, he is asking stock, not doing any mods, so re-sleeving , cranks shouldnt even be coming up.

 

stock for stock b20
mod for mod b20
so b20

 

Very interested in doing one of those swaps myself. I can't decide which one to do. I have been reading about the two for a while now. I can get a 95 B18B clean long bolck for 625 or an 01' B20z with 15k for 1000, so I am trying to decide.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pete_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would be the connecting rods to use with a CRVtec with a GSR crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

...use crower conrods and a gsr crank, or the same rods and an eagle crank. might be a bit expensive but youll be able to rev out really high with out prob like you would have with the stock components. if you rev out too high on stocvk rods then the strech from the rods will hit the head and you dont want that. just dont use stock ones, thats all i have to say. if you stay with stock just dont keep the revs down, or dont beat the thing too hard. if you run it hard alot thats when those prbs i mentioned comeup. but if you wanna stay stock that bad then do it, but i wouldnt...but thats just me

thanx
justin

 

my sig

 

No you can use your stock rod, just ge the machine shop to shot peen them, and use ARP Rod bolts to hold them together. Many engine builders with high horse power engines use stock rod, there are no problems with them, as long as done right!

 

i think that im g oing to b20vtec turbo or should i go lsvtec turbo

 

b20vtec is the best hybrid motor ever created(in my opinion). You can rev a stock b20 crank to 8k without any problems. I'd get a vtec oil pump though. The c5 doesn't come close to the torque or horsepower the b20 makes.

 

IGHT FA SHO THANKS MAN IM GOING TO GO BUY THE FULL B16 SWAP AND THE B20 BLOCK THEN JUST SELL THE B16 SWAP WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THAT

 

I MEAN SELL MY B16 BLOCK

 

I do like LS/Vtec actually think I am going to do that since I have an LS already. But, I think stock to stock and mod to mod that the B20 Vtec will make more power and tq then a ls/vtec.

 

someone posted it earler.

stock for stock=b20b or b20z

mod for mod =ls

ask me why. first of all im not a bseries fan. if i was a fan of trends i would want to spend the least amount of money possible.

for the price of a b20longblock(800) you can pick up a b16 longblock(600) and a ls shorblock(200) and have your self a stock b20 or an ls vtec with 11.0 compression.

b20vtec.com is a site i have visited before. even this site will mention that the stock b20 sleeves dont like alot of boost or really high compression.

besides all a b20 is, is an ls with 84mm pistons.

 

well if money the issue then go with lsvtec. oem Type R piston vs 400-500 aftermarket ones. so lsvtec for me.

 

probably gonna get flamed but here it goes.

magazines write alot of good sounding stuff related to this along with people who all into trends of what sound good. I have built 2 b20vtec, i never dyno'd either. my experience building engines is very extensive ( in comparison to a home hobbist). and im building a 3rd b20vect currently.

the first two engines used exactly the same parts with the exception of the pistons and ECU

*je pistons 12.5 and 9.5
*eagle rods
*ported gsr head with crower "stage 2" cams
*z10 racing oil pump gears I bought a new oiil pump housing but can remember if it was a gsr or a b20 part #
*z 10 racing main gridle brace
*factory b20 crank
*fidanza aluminum flywheel
*clutch net clutch
*holley t body
rc 240cc injectors


the 9.5 engine ran very strong and was very impressive using a gsr stock ecu
the 12.5 engine was a monster! im not kidding or exaggerating it scared the sh*t out of stock mustangs utilizing a hondata ecu(not programmed correctly and thats wasnt hondata fault either). the 9.5 was limited to its redline by way of the stock ecu programming. the 12.5 rev'd to 9k. the 9.5 ran fine, it was sold. the 12.5 threw a rod through the side of the block due to OIL STARVATION not rev "fatigue"
there was no problems with cracks in the cylinders of the 12.5, no signs of cylinder wear from the high revs.

the 3rd b20vtec is a replacement for the 12.5, it will use AEM ecu in a 2000 si. going to larger injectors and will be dyno tuned.

by the way the 12.5 burn rubber in 2 gear at 40mph, and chirped 3rd gear.

so unless i got a magical block stock block can take a lot of torture

hope this help because this isnt speculation ,,,, i built them both.