ls/vtec rod question
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ls/vtec rod question
before i get started, i did search on honda-tech, TI and some others. And this was posted on TI but they dont respond to anything of any importance so i moved it on here.
Been reviewing the compression ratio calculators for a prospective ls/vtec setup. I know they are not accurate but are pretty close. I know people say use the corresponding rods with crank, but i was messing around and got some pretty good cr's with the vtec rods&pistons mated with an ls crank. Looking specifically at the combo of ls block, ls crank, gsr rods, gsr pistons, b16 head. It yields a rough compression ratio of 11.53 which seems suitable.
Now once again i know everyone says match the rods with what crank is used, but could i use this setup and be safe? the gsr rods already have the bigger rod bolts which is a plus, and i wont have to have a machine shop press out the old piston and mate them with the new ones for an ls rod/gsr piston setup.
Been reviewing the compression ratio calculators for a prospective ls/vtec setup. I know they are not accurate but are pretty close. I know people say use the corresponding rods with crank, but i was messing around and got some pretty good cr's with the vtec rods&pistons mated with an ls crank. Looking specifically at the combo of ls block, ls crank, gsr rods, gsr pistons, b16 head. It yields a rough compression ratio of 11.53 which seems suitable.
Now once again i know everyone says match the rods with what crank is used, but could i use this setup and be safe? the gsr rods already have the bigger rod bolts which is a plus, and i wont have to have a machine shop press out the old piston and mate them with the new ones for an ls rod/gsr piston setup.
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I assume you know the GSR rods are .9mm longer than LS rods...so it's like decking the block about .036" .
I'd be real cautious with that setup so you don't end up smacking the piston into the head, I think it's generally not done like that. Sometimes trying to save money can cost you alot more in the end. Milling the head is safer to get more compression than decking or putting longer rods in a stock crank/block situation. Maybe get some inexpensive P30 or PCT pistons from Nippon or RSM for like $150 if you want 12:1.
I'd be real cautious with that setup so you don't end up smacking the piston into the head, I think it's generally not done like that. Sometimes trying to save money can cost you alot more in the end. Milling the head is safer to get more compression than decking or putting longer rods in a stock crank/block situation. Maybe get some inexpensive P30 or PCT pistons from Nippon or RSM for like $150 if you want 12:1.
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Re: (klungemonger)
nah, i know they are longer rods, its just theres no good machine shops i know of in MD that i would trust. Have a friend who got some 302 mustang rods and pistons done at a shop and they chipped his piston. ill just go with the ls rod i guess.
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Just get some ARP bolts for the LS rods, take the bare block in just for honing, and you're ready to drop in some RS slugs w/new rings man! Then you pick your c/r and don't gotta worry about milling anything, or anyone busting your pistons just put them in yourself to be sure they are handled right!
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Re: (bluemax189)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluemax189 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah, i know they are longer rods, its just theres no good machine shops i know of in MD that i would trust. Have a friend who got some 302 mustang rods and pistons done at a shop and they chipped his piston. ill just go with the ls rod i guess. </TD></TR></TABLE>
did u try marty brown racing and machine in glen burnie...he did all my machine werk and assembled my motor...did a great job....any ? u have let me know
did u try marty brown racing and machine in glen burnie...he did all my machine werk and assembled my motor...did a great job....any ? u have let me know
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