just got the h22 started, first impression
alright i just ght eh22eg running today, but i got some major problems/setback. im running a 93 cx h22a4 motor, with a B&M FPR, fidanza flywheel, act 6 puck, kenji p28 ecu(should i use this?) i dont have EGR hooked up, and currently there a code 21 check engine light on. im also using a gsr wire harness.
1. the car has SLOW/very sluggish acceleration, meaning that when them clutch starts to engage, the car's rpm goes up moderatly while at the same time the car doesnt move and feels really sluggish.(i can barely make it up a hill while crawling at 10-15 mph). and i can barely cruise around, i get around by driving around 20 mph.
2. what is code 21? how can i fix this?
3. the car is VERY hot, i cannot lift up the hood after about 10 minutes of driving. the frame around the motor is hot too, so hot that i cannot touch it at all. is this normal? because i think the motor is just really big and the engine bay is small.
4. the car is really loud as compared to the old b18c1 motor that was in the car. is this normal too?
ill have pictures up as soon as my car gets running.
1. the car has SLOW/very sluggish acceleration, meaning that when them clutch starts to engage, the car's rpm goes up moderatly while at the same time the car doesnt move and feels really sluggish.(i can barely make it up a hill while crawling at 10-15 mph). and i can barely cruise around, i get around by driving around 20 mph.
2. what is code 21? how can i fix this?
3. the car is VERY hot, i cannot lift up the hood after about 10 minutes of driving. the frame around the motor is hot too, so hot that i cannot touch it at all. is this normal? because i think the motor is just really big and the engine bay is small.
4. the car is really loud as compared to the old b18c1 motor that was in the car. is this normal too?
ill have pictures up as soon as my car gets running.
If you have a chipped p28 make sure that its the right specs for the motor. If its for anything else then your engine will run sluggish especially at low RPMs because the injector pulses will be different..
Dunno what code 21 is but check a manual or book, maybe someone can chime in here. I am at work.
Same thing with me, the hood of my car gets hot and it sits not too far off the top of the engine, plus the headers generate alot of heat..
Prelude engine are way quieter than the b-series engines once they have a nice exhaust system. Did you have your full exhaust hooked up at the time? Open header it will sound like a raging lion..
Dunno what code 21 is but check a manual or book, maybe someone can chime in here. I am at work.
Same thing with me, the hood of my car gets hot and it sits not too far off the top of the engine, plus the headers generate alot of heat..
Prelude engine are way quieter than the b-series engines once they have a nice exhaust system. Did you have your full exhaust hooked up at the time? Open header it will sound like a raging lion..
im using the gsr harness because thats what came with the car,(old b18c1 swap), i just used poison's guide and extended a few wires n such. as for the exhaust system, i got a full mandrel bent system from kteller8, welded onto the stock headers. im going to try to use my friend's p72 hopefully that'll make it run better. also, i dont have a resistor box for my injectors, is it neeeded at all?
[QUOTE=F120man]... i dont have EGR hooked up, and currently there a code 21 check engine light on... what is code 21? how can i fix this?
QUOTE]
Is it PO421?
QUOTE]
Is it PO421?
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EGR doesn't throw a code. 21 is the vtec soleniod valve, clear the code by resetting the ECU and then start it again and let it warm up and then drive it to see if the code comes back.
If it comes back check for continuity between P1 connector and the body, should be 14-30 ohms, if not then replace solenoid valve.
If so test for continuity between the A4 terminal on the ECU and the soleniod,no continuity = open in wire, fix it.
if there is test for it on the harness side between the P1 and body ground if there is continuity repair short between the A4 and the soleniod.
If not replace with known good ECU.
this is from the Helms, maybe someone has a easier way.
If it comes back check for continuity between P1 connector and the body, should be 14-30 ohms, if not then replace solenoid valve.
If so test for continuity between the A4 terminal on the ECU and the soleniod,no continuity = open in wire, fix it.
if there is test for it on the harness side between the P1 and body ground if there is continuity repair short between the A4 and the soleniod.
If not replace with known good ECU.
this is from the Helms, maybe someone has a easier way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16vx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> EGR doesn't throw a code .</TD></TR></TABLE> if its a P13 it will throw a code.
Yes, but in his post he stated he is running a chipped P28.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if its a P13 it will throw a code.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if its a P13 it will throw a code.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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squareone206
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