I'm getting confused, peeps talk about giving the black wire positive power of B18c1 for ODB 2, and say that OBD 1 needs a negative wire. I have OBD 1, I hook the blk/yll wire to a positive source. Is it right? Or do I need to hook it up to a negative source? One quick question, when do Vtec kick in in B18C1, 6500 rpm?

 

ok. your running a obd-1 ecu with your obd-2 motor. in your civic. I have a 99 gsr motor in my 92 vx, and im using a obd-1 ecu. You cut the black wire on the IAB, and give the black wire on the IAB plug a 12v switched source. (don't give the black wire in the harness the 12v source, jsut the black wire on the plug.)
and any yellow/black wire in the harness is a 12v switched source.
and you move a20 to a17. and run knock sensor from D3. my civic had a knock sensor wire already coming out of d3, so i chased that wire to teh strut tower and hooked it to the real knock sensor wire. Im using the gsr motor harness. its the way to go. If you need any more help, just ask me, or go to:
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/index.html

 

I have 95 GSR. So will this apply?

 

no, since the 95 gsr is obd-1.

 

VTEC kicks in at 4400.. come on guys.. OBD1 to OBD1 should be simple.. it requires 1 wire added to the ecu and then to the plug that goes to the intake manifold. I think its A20 to A17.. maybe vice versa.. We alrady had a wire in A17 so we just spliced the wire from A20 to A17to give it 12V of power and pluged the other end of the wire into the Intake manifold wire clip and we were good to go.

 

for OBD1, just plug the pink/blue to the ecu @ a17 via the wire @ a20.

 

yeah im having the same problem.. i cant get the iab part right.. 95 gsr swap using the 95 engine harness, in 92hb cx. on my ecu connector i see no pink/blue wire i see the a20 red wire.. not sure.. help...

 

Just move that wire from A20 to A17.


[Modified by 92SiB18C1, 4:00 PM 8/19/2002]

 

doing this will this throw a check engine light? what color is the wire? red?

 

It will not throw a check engine light. I belive on the civic harness going to the ECU, the color is red. Just to be safe, trace that wire back to the engine harness to see if it hooked up to IAB wire.

 

this wire is like right under the manifold right?

 

Someone please help this fool. I am getting tired of hearing him complain about his car being slow. After this is fixed and its still slow, the only thing left to do is let ME drive it....

 

hahaha summerduck... this thursday.. 7:15.. bring the r no excuses!
ill whip you with it messed up.....


[Modified by jdmeg6turbo, 6:38 PM 8/19/2002]

 

skunk2 im eliminates this problem i lost a little low end but damn it pulls hard as hell from mid to top. my iab wasnt connectecd but i held the flaps open didnt really notice a difference from riding in my car and another with them connected
lata
chris

 

ttt

 

the IAB is located on the IM on the driver's side correct?

just verifying so i know which one i need to wire up with the p13 IM.

tia

 

ttt

 

Ok guys... I tapped into A20 and sent the wire to A17..I am not getting a CEL so I assume everything is OK?

 

ttt

 

Finished B18C swap into my 92 Si a little while back. Kenji (gratuitous plug here) helped me (via e-mail) wire up the IAB, and it works perfectly.

Just move the RED wire at A20 to A17. That's it. (If there's a wire at A17, move it to A20 -- this was not the case on my car) You can confirm that it works by having a friend stare at the IAB dashpot while you start the car. When it's working, your friend will see the IAB will "suck" closed when the car's started.

 

would that be the bell looking thing on the im drivers side?

I couldnt get the red wire from A20 to come out, so I tapped into it and ran it to A17.

 

Yes. Has a vacuum line running to the top of it... the place to watch is the little linkage just underneath the "bell".. the vertical arm will move up on startup if the wiring is right. Alternately, you can yank the vacuum line and put your finger on the end -- You should have vacuum at idle.

 

Just checked today- it moves. Thanks again

 

what if i dont have vac. at idle from that hose?

 

I apologize that I don't have the service manual in front of me, but if you don't have vacuum on the IAB line at idle, you might want to check that the solenoid hasn't gone bad (this is assuming, of course, thay everything's wired up correctly).

I'm going from memory... but I'm pretty sure that all you have to do is apply ground to the PNK/BLU wire at the driver's strut tower to complete the IAB circuit. I backed that wire out of the connector and jumped it directly to ground. Reconnect the harness and turn the key to ON (but don't start the car) -- you'll hear a very audible CLICK if the solenoid is working.