high compression tuning
this is to those who are running high compression hybrids (11:1 and up)
what are you using to run reliably?
are you on pump gas for daily driving?
what have you done to your ecu? fuel delivery? timing? etc....?
i'm planning on running a compression of about 11.3:1 with LS block, B16 head and pistons, itr cams, and possibly str cam gears (i figure they'd work the same as aem or skunk2)
what else would i need to add to this setup for a reliable motor?
thanks
-Demitri
what are you using to run reliably?
are you on pump gas for daily driving?
what have you done to your ecu? fuel delivery? timing? etc....?
i'm planning on running a compression of about 11.3:1 with LS block, B16 head and pistons, itr cams, and possibly str cam gears (i figure they'd work the same as aem or skunk2)
what else would i need to add to this setup for a reliable motor?
thanks
-Demitri
you will be fine with 93 or 94 octane, skunk 2 ecu's are nice and gat a v-afc.
[Modified by vtecdoc, 9:36 PM 9/17/2002]
[Modified by vtecdoc, 9:37 PM 9/17/2002]
[Modified by vtecdoc, 9:36 PM 9/17/2002]
[Modified by vtecdoc, 9:37 PM 9/17/2002]
with good tuning...
If your going n/a 12.5 is good on 91 pump gas.
11.1 is low you can run 87
If your going n/a 12.5 is good on 91 pump gas.
11.1 is low you can run 87
You're an idiot if you buy a skunk2 ecu. They are junk. Overpriced JUNK.
"One size fits all" tuning is not tuning. Don't believe the hype. Running a Skunk2 ECU with a Skunk2 block, Skunk2 ported head, Skunk2 valvetrain and Skunk2 cams MIGHT make sense, however I still don't have much faith. The Skunk2 is a rip off of the Mugen ITR race platform, with RPM, vtec and fuel/timing maps changed. You can do better on your own.
Hondata, a WBo2 meter and some dyno time would be a very good idea. Hondata make a very very high quality product that is actively supported. If you have the money, by all means get one. You will have a lot more room to tune with one as you're pretty much limited to a FPR and turning the distributor without a hondata.
If you're on a budget and willing to learn a lot, check out http://pgmfi.crx-forum.org and http://www.diy-efi.org to learn more about what can be done with stock honda computers, tuning and general ECU theory.
"One size fits all" tuning is not tuning. Don't believe the hype. Running a Skunk2 ECU with a Skunk2 block, Skunk2 ported head, Skunk2 valvetrain and Skunk2 cams MIGHT make sense, however I still don't have much faith. The Skunk2 is a rip off of the Mugen ITR race platform, with RPM, vtec and fuel/timing maps changed. You can do better on your own.
Hondata, a WBo2 meter and some dyno time would be a very good idea. Hondata make a very very high quality product that is actively supported. If you have the money, by all means get one. You will have a lot more room to tune with one as you're pretty much limited to a FPR and turning the distributor without a hondata.
If you're on a budget and willing to learn a lot, check out http://pgmfi.crx-forum.org and http://www.diy-efi.org to learn more about what can be done with stock honda computers, tuning and general ECU theory.
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From: just when you thought you were different, WA, NWforLIFE
u dont have the money for a skunk 2 ecu(250), but u have the money for a stock si ecu with hondata(550)???
toto
you crazy trever??? 12.5 on 91... 91 is barely enough for 11.1 CR i would say 93 fro 11.1 and up... 87 for 11.1??..haha.. thats alot of knock.. and big time detonation..at high rpms..
My roomates car is 12.8 and runs on 91 allday for allmost 2 years now.We have many customer cars running 12.5 plus on 91 no problem.I have never had to repair a n/a honda motor due to knock.Tuning is key, were not dealing with caveman domestic technology here.
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