StudioJDM

Let me start off by saying that i recently swapped a jdm 97 R into my 98 civic hatch. Ive put about 2500 miles on it with no problems. Now to the story. I was going to get lunch yesterday. I get a red light so i put the car in neutral and coast to the light. I push the clutch pedal in and it feels like there is a little less resistance that normal but i dont think about it. Then i try to put the car into first but it will not go. I finally get it in after struggling and almost backing up traffic. When i took off the car felt sorta like it was shaking or something. Ever since yesterday the car has been doing this. Ive been told that it is my clutch. Is this correct? I am about to go outside and check the clutch fluid and all. If it is the clutch i guess im out a lot of money. What sort of clutch should i replace it with. I think this is kinda crappy because i am not hard on my car at all and a few months after my swap is completed, the clutch goes out like this. Well i guess i will see what happens

StudioJDM

excellent

RangerDan

ttt

StudioJDM

up

poison

It might be the clutch/throw out bearing, but I would make sure there is no air in the clutch hydraulic line.

Bleed your clutch completely and make sure there is no air bubbles.

To bleed your clutch, it's different from the brakes.

Parts you will need:

DOT 3 brake fluid

a 1/8" clear tube about 1 1/2 - 2 feet long.

8mm wrench

an empty 20 oz bottle, milk jug (this is to leak the old brake fluid out)

an extra friend to pump the clutch

The process:

Put the 1/8" in clear tube on the clutch bleeder valve, put the other end of the clear tube inside the 20 oz bottle, then open the bleeder valve using the 8mm wrench.

Take off the clutch master cylinder cap, and make sure at all times it is full at the top. If it drains down to the bottom, you will have to restart the process.

Have your friend pump the clutch using his hand (due to no pressure will be able to retain the clutch's position), and have him pump slowly.

Look at the clear tube, and make sure all dirty brake fluid is out, as well as air bubbles. As he is pumping, it will pump the brake fluid from the master cylinder into the clutch line. Again make sure this is full the whole time.

After you see nothing but clean fluid and no air bubbles being pumped out of the clear line, tighten the clutch bleeder valve and put the master cylinder cap back on. Pressure in the clutch pedal should strengthen.

If this does not work, then I would tap into the bell housing and replace the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

HTH

junglerunna

Good write up Poison I was gonna say to make sure he does the same thing before you go out and spend $500 on a clutch that you might not even need.

StudioJDM

would the clutch line having air in it or the throwout bearing make the car not go into gear? It does this even when the car is not running. All the time. The shaking got worse on the way home that day so i havent driven it since

StudioJDM

??

rick_spiff

Probably just the pressure plate. If the fingers on the pp break, you get lots of noise and either very little or no pedal effort. It also becomes very hard to change gears, even when the car is parked and the engine is off.

Get out your jackstands and pull that tranny.