hey all, I currently have a 2L B-series in a 1997 hatch. I've been really thinking about going with a F/H motor for bigger displacement for more NA power so I've been gathering info in the FAQ sections. Now I just want to go through some of my options with you guys for your opinions.

motor : the setup is for street and drag. I'm looking for a setup that can make power safely to 9500rpm to take advantage of the 4.785 ITR tranny that I have. I have a blown H22 longblock laying around.

option 1 : get a H23 crank for the blown H22. sleeve it... H22 rods with custom pistons.

option 2 : buy a complete h23a blue top. use the Mahle gold series pistons.

option 3 : f23 block, f23 rods, k20 pistons. h22 head

each setup will receive a ported head, big cams, Kinslers, custom header. injectors will be ID1000 and fuel will be E85. I think Option 1 will probably be the best setup, but I wanted input on options 2,3 revving that high at the track, while still driven on the street occasionally.

h2b kit :

QSD - bad hood clearance, everything else sits normal
Evolution - comes with custom mounts, etc. MAY have shifting problems.

what are your personal experiences with these 2 kits and which do u prefer more? which kit is less modifications and less time consuming to install

 

Have a buddy with a g23 accord. Internally stock f23 block...built h22a head. He's using the qsd kit with a 4.785 itr trans. Car is a beast only reving to 8k. I like the setup

 

I believe the newer EVO kits don't have the shifting problems anymore. Maybe someome who is using either kit (QSD or EVO) can shed some light on it.

 

Evo said they fixed it, the main problem was their extended shifter forks (slave cyl to pressure plate fork). They angle the slave cyl now and use a stock fork. The QSD kit would be better in your case - if you have a good clutch/fw already. Otherwise the Evo kit comes with a nice flywheel. Both place the motor the exact same way, thus have identical hood clearance issues.

As far as a 9500rpm setup, do you plan on rebuilding once or twice a season? A 95mm+ crank with that sort of rod/stroke ratio won't lend itself for longevity. The other problem is the extra friction will make it difficult to make power up that high. I'd think a bored out (sleeved) block with 90.7mm or 95mm crank would be the best bet for your goals. Sleeving may not be cheap, but nor is replacing coated pistons & honing an FRM block once a year.

 

thanks for your response. do u guys think the 95mm stroke will wear that fast even if utilizing the longer H22 rod? I feel that if I went H2B, I really want to take advantage of the extra displacement. I'm not sure if the cost justifies it if I kept the H22 stroke. My setup is a 85x89 right now. seems a lot of B-series doesn't have much trouble using the 92mm stroke. so another option would be the overbore the B to 86mm and use a 92mm crank. otherwise, I go with the H, sure I can overbore it and sleeve to 90mm, but I will also have to re-purchase a new ITBS setup, custom header, re-port another stock head, get the H2B kit, etc. If I went H, I'd really wanna try the 95mm stroke but only if u guys agree from past experience that it should be fine for what I wanna do.

 

A 95mm H with h22 143mm rods has almost the same max piston speed as a 92mm stroke b-series with a 135.5mm rod (both with 1mm less compression height pistons).

If you already have a bunch of b-series stuff and want to go *****-out by sleeving it, you might want to stick to b-series. You'll just have to do the math.

 

yea. my B-series is already sleeved. I can probably go 86x92 with a 137mm rod, but even then... the setup is smaller than a 90x95, or possibly 90x90.7. to be honest, if I went 90x95, I might just end up with the 141.5mm rod.

 

I like option 1 overall.

Whether were talking street or race, additional bore spacing allows - bigger bores andmore displacement.

So comparing the potential of the smaller B-90mm bore spacing to the H/F/K - 94mm,you just can't ever justify what additional power can be made as well as a better rod ratio can be achieved. Cost is all relative to your needs, wants, or goal.

Every natural aspirated Honda setup being built for performance, no matter theserious, should be designed around the same philosophy ever time: first maximize bore then add stroke. Bore increases displacement more than stroke. There is more power to be made by then putting a longer throw under it. This is no different than what the big K's are doing, no more or less as reliable as well.

 

what's your budget?
if you're rough on your engines i recc. buying f23, if you blow one up it wont be cheap to replace.

 

- Bserious... yea I am definitely tryin to max out the bore size. which is y I've decided not to go with the Fseries... since I will sleeve/bore to 90mm. I am also thinking the F23 crank might be pushing it for what I want to do. I am now debating between the 90.7 and the 95mm. I won't be driving the car much, but it will be driven about 70miles to the drags every month or so. I also do a lot of testing on the dyno. and the reason I need it to rev safely to 9500rpm is to take advantage of my current ITR tranny with the 4.928 final.

budget is not too big of a concern, not because I'm rich lol, but because I rather be patient and do it right the first time. obviously, I'll want to save as much money as possible, but I'll still buy the pricey parts if I had to. I had an eagle rod shoot out of a sleeved B b4, so now I currently use crower maxi-lite. no problem forking out money in that area

 

A budget is one thing, trying to do things for the absolute cheapest possible is another.

You'll be fine with what you are doing. The decision on the 95 or 97 crank for me would be decided by which generation block you were using. Then you build it from there.

 

my blown block is a obd1 H22 so I guess I'm limited to the 95mm stroke (50mm main). ok so 90x95 it is!

 

I like you already. I've seen too many people do whatever they can to get the cheapest parts around, then complain when it's not what they expected or their car has problems