dpine

well It has come to my attention that most of (oem, megan, DC Sports) headers when put on a h22 with A h2b kit pretty much sticks the end of the header up into the stearing rack! other than a custom setup from say RMF, SMSP, DTRFAB IS there another option out there? I was looking at the hotshot 4-1 header, anyone runnin that with the h2b setup?


thanks
Derek

DC4_MADMAN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well It has come to my attention that most of (oem, megan, DC Sports) headers when put on a h22 with A h2b kit pretty much sticks the end of the header up into the stearing rack! other than a custom setup from say RMF, SMSP, DTRFAB IS there another option out there? I was looking at the hotshot 4-1 header, anyone runnin that with the h2b setup?


thanks
Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>


I have a theory regarding the hotshot header working with the H2B setup.

Sent an IM about my theory.

Other than buying aheader made specifically for the H2B setup you will need to just buy a cheap *** header and have an exhaust shop modify it to work.

high_revs

only real header to fit perfectly for the setup would be the remf h2b header.....other then that you gotta rig all the others...

ExplicitSpeed360

For a budget header and to make a few ponies reciepe:

Get a cheap header such as OBX about $150 shipped. I like OBX they use decent thicker material and the color turns out decent once heated. But megan, or other cheap brands will work also they are pretty much 1 5/8" std primaries for the top half. No need to spend extra on a DC if your going to mod it. Primary size is the same I believe.

Cut the stock restrictive downpipe off from the flange. Grind off till flange is smooth. Runner sized I used was 2" for each runner. Then either get 2 U bends or J bends. Then purchase a 2", 2 into 1 2.5" collector. Also a o2 bung at the collector merge would be a good place to weld that in. Then bolt up the header to the engine and bolt up your downpipe flange. Then measure 3 times cut once until you get the bend you want out of the U or J bends. You want to keep an eye on the contour of the downpipe you want the similar shape as the downpipe you just cut off. The idea would be to hug the oil pan as close as you can...1/8" spacers will do a decent job...Then tack weld the bends once your happy with the bend and clearance... finish your welds out side of the car...Then make a bracket for the rear engine to header. Simply drill 2 holes. Cut the length so that it's touching the header...bolt it in...make your tacks then. Then finish the welds.

Outcome for me was 184 whp @ 6900 rpm and 158 ft lbs of torque @ 3200 rpm on a stock massaged jdm h22a...

dpine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExplicitSpeed360 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Then purchase a 2", 2 into 1 2.5" collector. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where can I purchase that at?

ExplicitSpeed360

http://www.stansheaders.com $20-30...

if it's not on there call them they have it in stock or can make it...

high_revs

i ordered my from rmf, but im on the waiting list so in the meanwhile i bought one off ebay for $70 and had to heat it up and pry it down to align with my exhaust and put a 3" collector on it....works good lol