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H22A Vs B18C in EJ1.

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Old 05-01-2006, 10:16 AM
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Default H22A Vs B18C in EJ1.

I've been doing a lot of reading on the b18c (JDM GS-R) motor, and it sounds like an all around good motor. I am planning to get my motor from HMO.com due to great things that I've heard about them. This swap costs about 3200 + shipping. I was looking last night at the H22a (92-95 Prelude) motor, this motor puts out 20 more HP and about 30 more torque for $1000 less.

Why is this motor so cheap? Is it not as good as the b18c? Excuse my noob questions, but why is it so cheap? Typo? Supply and demand? Also, what is the difficulty of the H22a swap into my 94 EX coupe? What type of wiring is it? OBD2/1/etc?
Old 05-01-2006, 03:29 PM
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Default Re: H22A Vs B18C in EJ1. (JDM-EJ1)

if ya want an h22 it complete with mounts and everything for eg/dc
Old 05-01-2006, 03:30 PM
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Default Re: H22A Vs B18C in EJ1. (SiRTifiedacc)

with the h22.. you'll eat gsr's all day long
Old 05-01-2006, 04:33 PM
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aich-two-two..
Old 05-01-2006, 09:03 PM
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Default Re: (2point2)

not just gsr...should give the b18c(5) a goor run for its money also.
Old 05-01-2006, 10:53 PM
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Default Re: (SohcPower)

I'm really not focused on who I'll be able to beat. My question is how technical is this swap? What is required in doing it as opposed to doing a B series swap?
Old 05-02-2006, 12:51 AM
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Default Re: (JDM-EJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm really not focused on who I'll be able to beat. My question is how technical is this swap? What is required in doing it as opposed to doing a B series swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

wiring - exactly like the GSR of the same OBD but you have to extend the alternator wires and maybe a couple other very minor mods

mounts - you get all new mounts (hasport mount kit), just like putting a b-series in an EF

axles - *prelude inner cups* are the key. tons of threads on axles.

shifter cables - you can cut a hole, no?

ECU - use a chipped p28 or equiv. right off the bat to eliminate the useless EGR, and knock sensor. The p13 (prelude ecu) will get you up and running though.

reference material
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=650329

need some quick help?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1513981

no biggy.
Old 05-02-2006, 10:09 AM
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Default Re: (2point2)

^^

Thanks a bunch!
Old 05-02-2006, 10:22 AM
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Default Re: (JDM-EJ1)

Overall. I've never done a swap before, ever. Wiring is my biggest weakness, I'm bad at it and don't throughly understand it. If I get my H22A, will I need to use my existing OBD1 EX harness in conjunction with my new H22A harness? Will I be able to use my existing radiator? I was also reading that I can use 90-93 Accord/Integra axels, is this true?
Old 05-02-2006, 10:33 AM
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Default Re: (JDM-EJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overall. I've never done a swap before, ever. Wiring is my biggest weakness, I'm bad at it and don't throughly understand it. If I get my H22A, will I need to use my existing OBD1 EX harness in conjunction with my new H22A harness? Will I be able to use my existing radiator? I was also reading that I can use 90-93 Accord/Integra axels, is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, Yes, You can, depending on your intermediate shaft (Accord/Prelude).

Wiring is easier than you think. Everything goes from the plug to either the ecu or the ground. When someone says: Wht/Red to Blue/Yell it just means you need to make your existing white red wire connect to the new blue yellow wire that sticking out of the new plug you need.

Edit: 2.2 Liters &gt; 1.8 Liters.
Old 05-02-2006, 11:02 AM
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Default Re: (DarkKnight1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, Yes, You can, depending on your intermediate shaft (Accord/Prelude).

Wiring is easier than you think. Everything goes from the plug to either the ecu or the ground. When someone says: Wht/Red to Blue/Yell it just means you need to make your existing white red wire connect to the new blue yellow wire that sticking out of the new plug you need.

Edit: 2.2 Liters &gt; 1.8 Liters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good to hear. I'm looking forward to doing this swap.
Old 05-02-2006, 11:13 AM
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Default Re: H22A Vs B18C in EJ1. (JDM-EJ1)

Also, one more thing. Like I stated earlier, I'll be purchasing this motor from HMO. I'll be getting this to be exact: http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30016

Now, you can get the Hasport mounts for $450 and the axels for $200. Other than that, would I need anything else to get this swap running?
Old 05-02-2006, 11:14 AM
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Default Re: H22A Vs B18C in EJ1. (JDM-EJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, one more thing. Like I stated earlier, I'll be purchasing this motor from HMO. I'll be getting this to be exact: http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30016

Now, you can get the Hasport mounts for $450 and the axels for $200. Other than that, would I need anything else to get this swap running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tools and missing little pieces. Check the FAQ at the top. It may look complicated, but it really is a very detailed breakdown of everything parts and information needed for the swap.

When I first looked at it, it looked complex, when I think about it now, after having done it, it's actually a very good breakdown.

One other option is an H2B. It will further add complexity to your swap but the end result (although I haven't seen one done on a stock eg/h22 swapped car) will be at least .3 to .5 seconds faster in the quarter due to improved/lower gear ratios. You end up about even money wise b/c all the drivetrain components are standard b-series. The only upgrade passed that I would recommend would be an LSD for the b-series transmission.
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