Okay guys this a weird one for u if u got any suggestions let me know please this car is getting on my nerves. My buddie has a 92 prelude and it had a h23 out of a 96 that we had. He spun the rod bearings so we decided to change the motor with the limited that we had to get it running. So we had a f23 block and a h22 head laying around and we put it together, got it in the car and it wont start. At first we were not getting any spark because of the wiring harness was from a 96 h23 so it had a ckp sensor witch we didnt use becasue we didnt have a obd2 h22 lower timing gear. We resolved that by bypassing that with a internal coil obd1 h22 dizzy and rewird it. We are now getting spark and we got it to start once with the h23 ecu and jumpin the main relay so that the fuel pump would stay on because when it would try to start the fuel pressure would drop. Havent got the new fuel pump yet but it still will not start not even with a chipped ecu with a h22 map. Checked all the obvious that i could think of but cant figure any thing else out. If u need to know anything else about it or have any suggestions let me know

 

forgot to mention that when the fuel pump primes for the 2 sec that it does start breifly but only when its priming then dies if u try to give it gas it just dies but i got the fuel pump so imma replace that then go from there

 

nobody has any suggestions at all

 

just hard to diagnose over the internet my best guess is switch out the pump and give us updates and we'll go from there

 

Whats up ponoche wey haha.

It has a walbro 255 lph fuel pump in it and the pump is in good condition. We have gone through everything we know. Good spark, MAP and TPS are in right position, all wiring seems good and everything tests out right.

Does the F23/H22 (G23) need more advanced timing to run? If anyone has ever tuned one of these and has a base map it would be greatly appreciated.
I ask because when we advanced the dizzy all the way on the G23 it seems like it wanted to start alot more than before. I would like to try a map with more advanced timing than to move the crank over a tooth to advance it that way blindly.

 

yeah wut he said we changed the pump fpr and bunch of other stuff to so if u have anything let one of us know

 

initial timing should be about 16 degrees before tdc at a 1,100 idle.

also, did you plug the two extra oil drain ports on the h22 head?

 

also, what computer are you using?

 

Yeah initial timing is good. Everything is on mark and no head shave, or block decking.

2 oil ports were plugged for sure.

Using both a p14 ecu and a chipped P06 with vtec added. Tried both an H22 map and a Poormans R map that I had from another motor I had a good tune on. Neither maps worked.

I got a jdm obd1 ecu out of a 97 accord but its an auto ecu that I would like to try as well.

Out of a bunch of motors we have put in and put together and all the cars we have worked on have never seen anything remotely as weird as this.

Oh yeah gas tank is clean as a whistle also, we checked when we had the fuel pump out. So bad gas is out of question.

 

a p13 should work, also a p28 if its chipped

 

A p06 chipped for vtec is the same as a P28. Plus a p13 is worthless because it will look for egr and knock and secondaries. All of which do not have a place in my heart or motors.
They are about as worthless as a Dick on a Pope!

 

yeah we are doin away with this motor and gonna rebuild the old one h23 and put the h22 head on it and go from there cuz its to much of a headache

 

From what i have read.. I don't know for sure how to do it or if it works but a g23vtec thread i have read has the timing set at 30 degrees ignition timing and he is running in the 11's .. if you know how to set 30 degrees of ignition timing could you explain alittle. on how to do that...

 

Well when you set timing dead on TDC your ecu fires at hopefully 16 deg. BTDC. You would set the crank at 15 deg. BTDC and theoretically you would be at around 30 deg.

But I would venture to say you may get some unfriendly valve/piston relationship there.

I would say without seeing that thread he is doing it all internally via his ecu and tune.

 

Okay I need some direction.. The thread i was referring to was the bolis-build and I don't understand how you set it. Correct me if im wrong. So set the crank to TDC and then put your alternator pulley on matching the zero degree mark with the little arrow on the engine. Then to set the 15 degrees turn the crank/pulley to the next mark which should be 15 degrees then throw the belt on and match marks on the cams gears up correctly. So with crank set at 15 degrees the computer/ecu adds another automatically? giving you 30 degrees of timing is that correct.. im asking i have never set the timimg before your heip is appreciated..

 

their should be a dead plug on the harness on the passengerside of the engine bay. if it doesn't have a jumper on it the car wont fire

 

Jumper ha? please explain. We got the harness (obdII) converted to run an obd1 dizzy and we have great spark.

The car has injector resistor pre-wired so that dead plug is just like it was before. We have had the car running before swap and heard it run on its own once after swap.

We decided to put h22 internals in the H23 block and just go with a 2.2L H23 with H22 head.
Basically an H22 with H23 casting. Quite the opposite of an H23 vtec swap. But we need the car running due to it being our buddies DD.

So until I get something figured out a little more surefire. I am holding off on an F23/H22 build. Possibly until I can get the CR up to mid 10's or low 11's.