sbacchus

sorry if these are dumb questions, i searched but couldn't find post dealing with my specific problems. i just swapped a D15B into a 94 civic EX that had a dead D16Z6. the swap was a complete longblock with tranny and wiring harness. i was going to use the jdm wiring harness when i realized it wouldn't work because some of the plugs were physically located on the wrong side of the car (RHD vs LHD). so i pulled the wiring harness off of the Z6 and connected it to the D15B. problem is i came up with one extra connecter

and one extra vacum hose


first problem is that in the first image the two plugs shown come off of the same wiring harness, dunno if i have the right one connected since they look the same. i think i found the missing part that these plug into on the old engine, anyone know what this is?


when i hooked all of this up with the usdm p28 ecu and usdm o2 sensor the car started right up but the check engine light was on and it seemed to be lacking power. so i swapped out the usdm ecu with the jdm ecu (still with usdm o2 sensor on) and it started right up with no check engine light. however it won't let me shift out of park now, the stick seems to be locked. does anyone have any ideas about what i should do? which ecu to use? which o2 sensor? what to do about the extra connector?

thanks.

Sobe_Death

it seems that the JDM ecu is not meant for an automatic transmission. that thing on your z6 IM looks to be a purge control solenoid, and might be whats causing your CEL.

ot: your valvetrain looks horrible! was the oil ever changed on that engine?

sbacchus

hey thanks for the response, thing is the ecu came with the engine and tranny (which is auto) so it should be for auto. i did another test this afternoon, i used my key to undo the shift lock and put the car in neutral and then started it. was able to drive it just fine, shifting between all of the gears. it just locks once i put it into park.

believe me the valvetrain looks much worse in person than it looks in that picture!!!
it's not my car, i'm just to help a family member who got stuck with this thing. i don't believe it's seen too many oil changes. sounds like the engine threw a rod and i figured it would be cheaper to do the D15B swap than to try and fix it.

who-got-rice

thats your purge control selenoid as sobe death said, i know that is where you plug in the vaccum line you put a screw into, you can always plug it in to the harness and attach it with a zip tye or tape i suppose, i'm not sure how it will effect the over all performance of the car, but i'm pretty sure you could always swap the whole intake onto the d15 motor from the d16z6, it should just give the car a little more over all pep. as far as the whole locking shift lever goes you've got me, never really encountered that before, sorry.

HumanResource

The P08 doesn't read the pressure sensor so you'll be left with it-you can just tuck it in

Loss of power-Going from 1.6 to 1.5+ retaining autoslush box=Fa sho!!!

HumanResource

http://192.192.73.137/%E4%BA%9...B.HTM
see if you guys can read this
found it surfin

sohcvtec66

you should clean that motor yo

Sobe_Death

you mean you cant read that?

sbacchus

thanks for the replies, seems like the P28 controls the shifter lock somehow and the P08 doesn't HumanResource i don't understand why going from 1.6 to 1.5 would mean a power loss? the two engines have the same horsepower rating and the car was slushbox before the swap. it has like no power below 2000rpm and then everything is fine. takes like 7-8 seconds to do 0-20....