I've confirmed power to the 02.

All the wiring checks out good.

Does this mean for sure bad 02 sensor?

It's brand new!

 

You sure the wiring is good? Do you have another known good O2 sensor you could check with?

 

well, from what I understand, only one wire will send a 12v source.

I've confirmed that that one is good. The other 3, I'm not sure if I should be gettting current at the plug or not?

Do you know of a way I could test the other 3 wires? I don't have another 02 at all

 

is the o2 mounted in the pipe or just hanging becouse if the o2 is not grounded you are going to throw a cel and if it is in the pipe take it out and cleen around it and check the plug to see if there is any green looking stuff on there and if so clean them off and then try again and reset you ECU

 

It's mounted. I took it out and cleaned it/blew it off, stuck it back in, reset ECU. Still throwing it.

Bad o2?

 

did the o2 work before? it might just be a bad o2 also they do go bad you can get the universal one from Bosh and wire it together that is what i did and never had a problem

 

well the o2 is brand spankin new. That's why this is so annoying.

 

how did u wire it? u didnt just splice them and tie them up did u? cuz code 41 is the heater, which usually has something to do with the wires.

 

What do you mean by splice and tie them?

The only thing I had to do was lengthen the wires. I soldered/wrapped each one individually. Each wire shows voltage except the ground.

So I don't see where the problem would be with the wiring.

 

trace each wire from the O2 plug back to the ECU to make sure prospeed didnt **** that plug up, I'm quite glad I did my own wiring.

 

I have....that's what I mean when I say it all checks out.

 

i have the same code on my h22ek.. a friend of mine told me to swap around the 2 black wires.. i'm going to try that tomorrow.

 

Yea, i'm throwing the same code...would this also cause a spuradic idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackedoutcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same code on my h22ek.. a friend of mine told me to swap around the 2 black wires.. i'm going to try that tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't there only one solid black wire?

All of my wires a different color so I don't think that's the problem.

 

mine has 2 solid blacks, one green, and one white. its from an OBD1 engine.

 

Okay let me see if I can shed some light on the issue. O2 sensors come with 4 wires. One white wire which goes to D14 on the harness, one grean wire which can be spliced or joined to any signal wire which is usually grean/white on the harness/ecu side, and two black wires.. Okay usually the O2 wires are situated where one black wire is next to the white wire and one next to the green. The simple way is to take the one next to the white wire and place that to A6 which is the heater signal on the ECU side of this, which color is usually red/black. And the last wire goes to a powered ground. NOT GROUNDED BUT POWERED GROUND. You can usually attach this wire to any yellow/black wire on the harness since most of them get power with ignition. A25 is usually a good place to attach this wire if you doing it from the ECU harness side..

Hope this clears some things up and if you still need help just let me know.

White = D14 (White)
Green = Signal Wire (Green/White)
Black 1 (Next to White Wire) = A6 (Red/Black)
Black 2 (Next to Green Wire) = A25 Powered Ground (Yellow/Black)

 

red/black?

Is that the same as orange/black? because I don't have any red/black on my 02 wiring.

I've tried two different o2's and I'm still throwing the code.

I went in with a meter....tested at the strut tower harness and then at the o2 plug end.

Was the same.

Sooooo, I tested with the 02 not plugged in and plugged in at the 02 itself

Here's the readings:

Grn- .015/.015

wht- Jumps between .4 and 1.5/ jumps between .6 and 1.5 (minimal difference with the o2 plugged in)

orange- .03/12

yellow- 12/12

Should I be seeing anything more...particularly out of the green and white wires?

Also, what PIN should the green wire be going to?

 

And red/black is on the ECU/harness side. Not the O2 sensor.. And D22 is a good source to get for signal or the green wire..

 

Do you have any word of advice/help on the voltages?

 

Nope follow those directions and it will work fine. Unless you have a bad O2 then that is a different story. Trust me I have been thru the same thing when I was hooking up my O2.

 

Well I traced everything back to the ECU.....and I'm still getting the code.

The only thing I can think of is that maybe something is wrong with one of the wires.

if I spliced the white wire straight into D14 (to possibly bypass bad wiring somewhere in the harness since I can't trace ALL of it)will that mess anything else up? I dunno if anything else runs of that pin.

 

That is what I am telling you to do. I ran my O2 and vtec wires separate from the harness.. If you follow my directions then you can do the same without having to trace back bad wiring. And its most likely that you arent getting the powered ground so you will get the 41 code..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason kiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And red/black is on the ECU/harness side. Not the O2 sensor.. And D22 is a good source to get for signal or the green wire..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm throwing the 41 also.There is no RED/BLK wire in my harness.
but the YEL/BLK is pinned at A23 in the original schematic (less than 1v) and needs to be moved to A25 or B1 (battery voltage at all times).Other than that
GRN to GRN/WHT D22
WHT to ORG/BLU A6
then the last one I can't figure out cuz the wires are different colors than the Helms says they are.As I said above there is no RED/BLK.I this is off,let me know,I've heard to many different things about it,this is what I have narrowed down through pinouts and talking to others..

 

IM throwing a code 1, which is the o2 sensor for obd1 engines, so i am assuming that you all have obd2 if you are throwing a code 41? anyways i think the reason why is because when we extended the wires, we didnt soder them, but instead clamped them. I am going to soder them and see if that corrects the problem. The other reason why i think that its that is because the check engine light doesnt come on right away. I usually see it trun on after about 10 to 15 min of driving, but it is so random that i never know when it will come on. So i think it is getting the right reading sometimes, but then failing at other times

 

OBD I CEL code 41 is heated oxygen sensor circuit.