just spent ALL day dealing with customs and international shipping agencies and finally get my JDM B20B home for teardown...

teh block number is B20B1

i have never seen this mentioned anywhere? are they all like this? it is proportedly a JDM '96 CRV block.

yet to pull the head to check the piston stamps...

IGBTYS,

t..

 

http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/b20tech.html

 

nice tinker, you finally got yer engine. I think the "1" is appropriate cinsidering the year. Some of the later ones are the b4's...

My ls engine is finally about to give up the ghost i think. So tomorrow i'm gonna look hard for an b20 engine tomorrow. Maybe spring fever is over and those jerks here will drop their prices.

Tinkerbell, do you have a compression tester? I'm curious to know the compression of your engine before you rip it down. And then compare that to whatever pistons you end up having.

d

 

this page does not mention a B20B1...? it says hte number is not important, just the letter.

but thanks anyways!

all will be revealed when the head is removed.

t..

daver, will do compression test tonight, tried last night - kept cranking but couldnt get much more than 50PSI by hand, (i think the tester was not fully sealed) will try again tonight...


[Modified by tinkerbell, 12:45 PM 7/2/2002]

 

i thought the b20b motors from japan would have no numbers after them, like b18c5=us,b18c=jdm. and all jdm b20 motors are the b20b right? w/higher cr?

 

you have a 90 prelude motor
HAHAHA
(just kidding)
i wouldnt worry about it
maybe you got a usdm motor? hehe

 

no, they seem to have numbers after them, like the '98 b20b4 i was going to buy before they dropped it and smashed it to death.

But isn't that the whole bloody issue. There are no consistancies with these jdm engines. We don't even know which b20b's have the higher and lower cr pistons as an absolute certainty.

 

From my understanding the JDM B20b = USDM b20z.
I just bought a JDM b20b anf it had the low rise manifold and no number after b20b. the head is stamped 96

 

Vicious rumor, spread by someone looking for an easy way out.

when you pull hte head look at the piston code - probably will be "p3f"

if they are "phk" you have high compression pistons (we think...)

im waiting to pull my head cause daver wants me to do a compression test, so i have to put hte camsafts, rockers, caps back in etc

B16aEK, does your block have a knock sensor on hte back?

t..

 

No knock sensor there. I guess I have to look at the pistons to be sure now.

 

Check the spank plugs, the B20b uses ZFR5F-11
the B20z uses ZFR6f-11

Although these can easily be changed but I think for the most part CRV owners stick to factory replacement parts.

 

hi tinker

I din't quite follow that. You say your engine came without the rockers cams and caps installed? Or you yanked them yourself? You shouldn't have to yank the head; or did you mean the valve cover??

d

 

Also, dont pull the head. Just buy one of those scope things to look inside the engine. Look at the pistons to see if they are dished or flat top. You want the flat top ones!

 

yeah man,

got it home, pulled the rocker cover, pulled the sparkies, took off the timing belt covers, took off the pully, removed timing belt, removed cam gears, took off camshaft caps, removed camshafts, removed rockers and got out my 14mm socket for the head bolts and...

...said - ****, i should compression test this block!!!!!!

anyways, i will do all this soon enough...

the spark plugs were NKG R's - if you are interested

t..

 

dude, i am pretty sure you cant tell the difference between the flat or domed CRV piston from hte TOP!

maybe a side veiw could help...

anyways, im gonna pull hte head as soon as i have your compression numbers daver...

t..

 

OK, compression = low 180's across the board.

they are P3F pistons, "low compression"

the block looks smooth as, maybe 10'000 clicks - not sure...

gotta get the head done: plug oil hole, re-drill dowels & attach oil line fitting

then do the rod bolts (ARP) and head studs (ARP) and hte oil cooler coolant lines and the PCV system, and the oil line and fit the head and a couple of other things like clean and flow test the injectors...

then it is torque time!

t..

 

nice numbers tinker! Low compression nuthin. My 9.2:1 ls engine never went above 160psi's even when it was young. Maybe the jdm b20b does have a thinner headgasket; some one suggested a two layer?...

Sounds like you got a good one tho, most seem to dial up about 160-170 from what i've read online and requested of the engine sellers. You said you had a young one you think, so either these things wear out quick (naaa), or some of them ARE different internally some how, OR some people don't know how to handle a compression tester (don't stop cranking til the needle stops moving).

Nice one tinkerbell, you scored.

I'm in touch with a shop that has a couple coming in at the end of the week here. If the compression test checks out, then i'll have me a b20b dialed into my teg by next week!

d

ps and at $1600 cdn, it almost makes me want to move to the US; we get so ripped off here...

 

the b20b (us) is low compression 8.8 to 1. B20z is hi compression 9.6 to 1. some where around there. why buy a jdm. If you live in usa it's only $1000 for longblock.
You have to modify the relief valve on the intake side to clear the vtec valves or you will bend them.

Turbo B20 Vtec.... 360hp@10 psi