wheemer

I thought I'd post up some pics of my car... It's interesting to hear other peoples opinions...

It's got a 1999 JDM B20b w/fly cut pistons
1995 B18c Head w/Type r cams, valve springs and has been milled 40 thou
DC 4-2-1, no cat, 2 1/4 straight to a magnaflow straight through.
Ice man short
Bored throttlebody and secondary butterflies have been removed.
Full interior

It made 176 hp and 124 tq at the wheels. Do you think these are good numbers for what it has? How fast do you think the car will go?


Large Dyno 1


Large Dyno 2


Large Dyno 3


Large Front


Large Side


Large Back


Large Underhood

Click on the links below the images for a larger view...

Thanks to all that comment...


[Modified by wheemer, 6:55 PM 8/20/2002]

Jeff C

shrink the graphs to about 600x600 pixels

so where to final results 176 hp and 124 tq?

wheemer

Sorry... I shrunk them, I hope they are small enough.

176 hp
124 tq

This is on a dyno that attaches to the front hubs in place of the tires... It's supposed to be calibrated exactly to a dynojet in the area...

What compression do you think this motor has? The head has been milled 40 thou before... I was figuring ~9.4:1

I also have leaks in my header... it's very loud, will that affect hp numbers?


[Modified by wheemer, 4:09 PM 8/20/2002]

daver

by "flycut" you mean widened the valve reliefs? Are the gsr valves the 33mm like the other b vtecs?

how many psi's did the compression test crank out?

I noticed a real drop in your midrange, you figure its from the removed secondaries?

Are the second and third dynos the "before and after" tuning...?

d

wheemer

I used a jig and a dremel to deepen and enlarge all 8 intake valve reliefs... I was paranoid like hell about piston-valve clearance.

Honestly I am not too sure why the dyno looks so bad... Maybe a skunk2 manifold would help...

Supposedly thats a type R program...

I don't have a before tuning dyno chart, he didn't think it was needed (moron)...


[Modified by wheemer, 8:12 PM 8/20/2002]

Jeff C

i would have thought that the graph and numbers would have been more like this one...

maybe adding a skunk2 mani will make yours more like this...?
not much of a sleeper with that plate...
ill have to post my dyno if i ever get mine together.
what did you do about the pcv system?

wheemer

I don't want to knock that dyno, but if the pistons are stock b20z I wouldn't have thought those numbers could be possible.

I honestly wasn't expecting more than 175... I know that if/when I throw in 12.5:1 cpmpression pistons those numbers will change drastically.

I didn't install any of the PCV stuff... The only thing I made certain to install was the oil filter cooler from my B18C block.

BTW that plate is my photoshop handy work.

Thanks


[Modified by wheemer, 2:18 PM 8/21/2002]

Dragger817

Whats the PCV stuff?? excuse my stupidity....I still have my CRVtec sitting around waiting to be dropped into a hatchy, but i haven't heard anything about a PCV, please fill me in

SuperSteve

Well when you combine a B20 with a VTEC head, you eliminate the PCV system. It allows for the pressure being built up in the crank to be releived from the motor. In many CRVTEC setups this will cause a slight oil leak that will only get worse if you don't vent the block.
What I did was on my valve cover I tappe dit for a grommet and stuck a PCV valve in it an routed it to the intake. It should help some.

wheemer

It was my understanding that as long as you've got the hose connected from your valve cover to your intake arm you should be fine... Am I wrong?

Thanks


[Modified by wheemer, 11:23 AM 8/21/2002]

Jeff C

that is not going to relieve the crankcase of pressure. it think it is actually dangerous to not have a pcv setup. do a search for "pcv" in the hybrid (both recent and archived). there is are several good threads on this.

is there anyway you can you ask the people who did your motor if there is a pcv valve incorporated somewhere on your motor? just out of curiosity, did they do the necessary stuff to supply the head with oil?

wheemer

Everything was done by me...

I tapped the block, where the stock oil pressure sensor was, to accept a large fitting. I used an aliminum male fitting on the block. I used high pressure rubber hose that connects via brass fittings to a brass tee that's secured on the firewall. From there I have another length of high pressure hose running to an aluminum fitting that's screwed into a stock threaded location in the head (it was capped before). The other side of that tee is where the stock oil sensor is now.

There are oil drain passages that connect the air space beneath the valve cover with the air space surrounding the crank... Therefore I am going to have to disagree with you; I think it is relieving the crankcase of pressure quite well. I've also put about 5000 Km on this motor, a few drag appearances and a number of dyno runs without any hint of a problem...


[Modified by wheemer, 1:38 PM 8/21/2002]

BROOD

I'm no expert but seeming that the oem style B series oil breather/separator cans sometimes have a hard time keeping up at high revs and all. Only a valve cover breather system may not be sufficient. There is more going on inside the shortblock than what is moving inside the valve cover. I really doubt the small oil drainback holes that connect the two can sufficently move air while there is oil draining back through them.

I chose not to chance it. I'm running a Moroso oil breather system. No problems.

Jeff C

do you have it setup to automatically drain back in to the crankcase or do you crawl under there and manually drain it?

Dragger817

how much does that oil breather system run??

wheemer

Does anyone know for certain that I will experience problems? I really don't think it's anything that bad... I thought it was only an emmissions thing.

BROOD

The oil return line is tee'ed into the passengers side crankcase vent line (oil vapor into the breather tank), located at the rear of the crankcase. I have yet to experience any oil build up in the breather tank. IS that the description you were looking for??

**edit: routing looks similar to the ENDYN set-up. I'm using the open element instead of the PCV valve in top of the breather tank.**


[Modified by SLPR, 1:25 PM 8/23/2002]

Jeff C

not sure if i know what the vent line is
so you have a hose going from the bottom of the Moroso catch can to this vent line?

Dragger817

out of context here....but what altenator are you guys using? Which altneator can i use? And can i use the MSD Dis. Cap on my CRVtec motor?

jinxproof99

the numbers are definetly low. could be the dyno. you should be in the 180+ hsp but more importantly, over 140 tq. your torque number seems off. just my opinion.

wheemer

I am using a B18c altenator...

Honestly, I think the guy who reprogrammed my ECU didn't do a very good job. He uses a wideband and dyno runs the car... When I went to pick up the car he didn't have a before dyno available... I thought it was fishy.

Keep in mind the compression is low... like 9.4:1

This motor would rock if it was turbo charged... Only problem is I don't know how much boost the stock block would handle...

Jeff C

1g b16 alt. here, however the car is not runnin yet.

ImportReview

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&i...484664#2484664

thats the lastest B20/VTEC.

LOL crazyness has hit IB. We are dumbfounded at our new motor.

Street car.

I think a good number for your pals B20/VTEC up there with stock pistons is like 175 with like type-R or GSR cams.

With bolt ons, it will do it.

You will see 190 WHp with type-R cams, and a Dominator Block from us, say at about 12:1 compression.

You will see 200 WHp with Skunk 2 type 2's and a Dominator block 12:1
You will see 210 WHP with a great header and the above.

I will add some more charts up there soon.

To give people a better idea of what CRV/VTEC's are.

CRV block B16A head. ALL STOCK.

It will make like 150-155 WHP only. It goes up from there.

Jeff


[Modified by ImportReview, 8:37 PM 8/22/2002]

under_psi

your numbers seem pretty low bro...

also, I would be very concerned about having no PCV system in place. especially now that you rev up to atleast 8000 rpm.

I have the endyn/moroso PCV kit. you don't have to tap the block to install it, just take out the two plugs from either side of your oil cooler/filter. it relieves crankcase pressure right from the source. I'm very very happy with my kit, it costed 300$ shipped UPS red (overnite + they take care of duty) to Toronto.

dohcsideSi

how it that when a jdm b20 is 9.6:1 ??? you have a gsr head which has a smaller combustion chamber (crv is 45cc and gsr is 41.(??)) and is milled 40 thous!!! closer to 11:1 your tq is way down your w/ itr cams you should be making at leat 10-15 more hp.