b20 vtec or ls vtec?
b20 vtec like it has been stated before it was all deleted.?? i wonder why
well that is my contribution. and i will tell you to go with a b16 head.
PST. what ?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you looking to get out of the car?
Give us a little more information to start with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think he wants to know witch is better and to my opinion the b20v is.
well that is my contribution. and i will tell you to go with a b16 head.
PST. what ?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you looking to get out of the car?
Give us a little more information to start with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think he wants to know witch is better and to my opinion the b20v is.
jus wondering witch one pulls harder and is more reliable? thats all i no ppl who have both but they booth seem to pull hard jus wanted other opinions. thats all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lil vin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jus wondering witch one pulls harder and is more reliable? thats all i no ppl who have both but they booth seem to pull hard jus wanted other opinions. thats all </TD></TR></TABLE>
See if you can get some numbers from each.
I've heard of the issues with the thin walls on B20s, but that depends on if you want to turbo it in the future. Thus my original question.
See if you can get some numbers from each.
I've heard of the issues with the thin walls on B20s, but that depends on if you want to turbo it in the future. Thus my original question.
na i don't wanna turbo n e thing but yea if i were to turbo i would go with the ls/v but since i don't idk witch one would be a better choice
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lil vin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">na i don't wanna turbo n e thing but yea if i were to turbo i would go with the ls/v but since i don't idk witch one would be a better choice</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say your best bet (besides this thread) is to start searching on info for both engine combos.
To help yourself and others in the future out, post the info you find here. That along with whatever else people happen to mention to you should help you make your decision hopefully.
I'd say your best bet (besides this thread) is to start searching on info for both engine combos.
To help yourself and others in the future out, post the info you find here. That along with whatever else people happen to mention to you should help you make your decision hopefully.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lil vin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wut would u guys put in a 92-95 hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would get either Kevin Helms (Hondaworks) or Steve Rothenbuehler (Omnipower) to build a B20.
You have to be careful w/a B20, but you can make a reliable high HP all motor engine that can take virtually all comers even in the H1 class of Honda Challenge.
Kevin and his B20 are perennially and reliably in the top finishers in all H1 races in which he participates.
I would get either Kevin Helms (Hondaworks) or Steve Rothenbuehler (Omnipower) to build a B20.
You have to be careful w/a B20, but you can make a reliable high HP all motor engine that can take virtually all comers even in the H1 class of Honda Challenge.
Kevin and his B20 are perennially and reliably in the top finishers in all H1 races in which he participates.
Indeed, 2.0L VTEC setups can be quite potent. I seem to recall Steve Sakai stating that he preferred starting with a 1.8 block and sleeving/boring rather than using the B20 as a foundation, though I'm not certain why he encountered the problems he did with the B20.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Indeed, 2.0L VTEC setups can be quite potent. I seem to recall Steve Sakai stating that he preferred starting with a 1.8 block and sleeving/boring rather than using the B20 as a foundation, though I'm not certain why he encountered the problems he did with the B20. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some of the issues that Sakai used to encounter back in those days have been somewhat resolved by the most recent Hondata computer's ability to have four different mixtures in the four cylinders.
#3 doesn't always automatically overheat anymore.
Knowing what we know about cylinder and cylinder head temperatures, people always design in extra cooling (both water and oil) when they're building B20's in 2007.
Some of the issues that Sakai used to encounter back in those days have been somewhat resolved by the most recent Hondata computer's ability to have four different mixtures in the four cylinders.
#3 doesn't always automatically overheat anymore.
Knowing what we know about cylinder and cylinder head temperatures, people always design in extra cooling (both water and oil) when they're building B20's in 2007.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something about head sealing issues seems to stick out in my mind? </TD></TR></TABLE>
High performance B20's were a new thing back in Sakai's days, and they were often built by enlarging B18's.
It's not a problem when using modern techniques and starting with the 2.0 block.
But...having said that, you still have to be careful and I'd really either research this in detail or get one of the two people I mentioned to do it.
High performance B20's were a new thing back in Sakai's days, and they were often built by enlarging B18's.
It's not a problem when using modern techniques and starting with the 2.0 block.
But...having said that, you still have to be careful and I'd really either research this in detail or get one of the two people I mentioned to do it.
It's been years since I read any of it, so my recollection is decidedly foggy.
As you've stated though, a 2.0 setup can be excellent when properly built.
As you've stated though, a 2.0 setup can be excellent when properly built.
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I have heard that the the b20 crank girdle is weaker? I believe I read that it is more reliable if replaced with a GSR crank girdle... This is pretty hearsay but you may want to look into it.
It's technically the same thing.....or procedure I should say.
Try running a B20 non-vtec and see how you like torque
but generally, the LS/B20 VTEC engine setup is a ticking bomb if you plan to rev it higher than 8500rpm. The LS & B20 cranks are exactly the same in design and tend to vibrate at high rpm's which in turns will eventually kill your crank/rod bearings and will eventually make the engine wind up with a spun bearing. This is why type-R canks are superior; they have heavier counterweights to battle off high RPM vibrations and preserve the bearings, amongst other things...
Try running a B20 non-vtec and see how you like torque
but generally, the LS/B20 VTEC engine setup is a ticking bomb if you plan to rev it higher than 8500rpm. The LS & B20 cranks are exactly the same in design and tend to vibrate at high rpm's which in turns will eventually kill your crank/rod bearings and will eventually make the engine wind up with a spun bearing. This is why type-R canks are superior; they have heavier counterweights to battle off high RPM vibrations and preserve the bearings, amongst other things...
The B20 is a good choice if you are going to go N/A or nitrous. For one since the B18 and B20 have the same stroke you at least get more displacement right off the bat from the B20. Either way if you were going to build a B18/B20 for boost you would have to get either one of them sleeved so that ends th question right there on boosting them.
I love the B20 and ran 11.0s all day and night on a arias piston and eagle rods setup with a 150shot direct port tuned on S300. Made 211whp N/A with a B16 head that only had a valve train upgrade and 300+ on the 150shot. It would run 12.7s all motor on the 24.5 slicks intended for nitrous. All of this was in an EG. Got vids of the dyno and runs if you want to check em out.
I love the B20 and ran 11.0s all day and night on a arias piston and eagle rods setup with a 150shot direct port tuned on S300. Made 211whp N/A with a B16 head that only had a valve train upgrade and 300+ on the 150shot. It would run 12.7s all motor on the 24.5 slicks intended for nitrous. All of this was in an EG. Got vids of the dyno and runs if you want to check em out.
FORGET LS/VTEC OR B20/VTEC MOST OF THE MOTOR END UP BLOWING UP ANYWAYS OR HAVING ALOT OF PROBLEM'S, DONT GET ME WRONG FRANK MOTORS ARE STRONG BUT MOST DO BLOW... I WOULD RATHER DO A SEMI BUILT GSR, THEN FRANK MOTORS...
BUT FOR THE PRICE H2B ALL THE WAY...
BUT FOR THE PRICE H2B ALL THE WAY...
STOP YELLING!, the b20/vtecc setup is extremely potent. my buddy had a b20 w/ a gsr hear, compelte itr valvetrain itr water and oil pumps. this was all in a del sol. the car was sick fast, never got it ont he track but it put out around 200 horse to the wheels. it was fatser than his current rsx-s. its a great setup if you can build it right, tune it right and enjoy it without over revving it. look up user bambam. read his ls/vtec build, that motoro is currently in a friend of mines integra and its absolutley disgusting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tapboyzlilj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FORGET LS/VTEC OR B20/VTEC MOST OF THE MOTOR END UP BLOWING UP ANYWAYS OR HAVING ALOT OF PROBLEM'S, DONT GET ME WRONG FRANK MOTORS ARE STRONG BUT MOST DO BLOW... I WOULD RATHER DO A SEMI BUILT GSR, THEN FRANK MOTORS...
BUT FOR THE PRICE H2B ALL THE WAY...</TD></TR></TABLE>TURD
BUT FOR THE PRICE H2B ALL THE WAY...</TD></TR></TABLE>TURD


