I'm thinking of going with a b18c1 or jdm b18c(gsr) longblock in my em1. I know, I know, if I wanted to go swap should of gotten a dx or a hatch. From what I know it's pretty much a straight drop in. I think I'm going to run a blox IM so I wouldn't have to worry about the IABS wiring. What are some 1/4 times with this (b18c1 in em1)?

thanks

 

Whats an EM1 ? ( better to just stick to the basics EF/EG/DC ) People are
going to flame you for asking 1/4 times lol im going to assume its a 4door? EG?

Either or id say some 14s off hand.. I really dont know Depends on alot of diff things

 

sorry a 2000 Si, or EK. I just need a generalization and opinions about it. I know it has 15-20ft tq more and about 15-20hp more. Is it even worth it to do the swap? or should I finish builiding up the b16a2? I don't know what to do

P.S it would be just the longblock and I would be keeping the Y21 tranny.

Thanks

 

Gotcha.. No biggie was just confused on the chassis code.. Id say it would def be worth it. Run the skunk2 or blox intake manifold. It will be 100%
bolt in just use your Si harness on the GSR Motor and your set.. I would recomend a chipped P28 computer and an OBD1 conversion harness this way you can run a more apropriate computer or just run an OBD2A/B ? not sure what Si's run I think OBD2B Type R computer. you will def feel a diff and it will be worth it. Mod for Mod the B18 will outperform the B16 esp down low. With your tranny it will be nice.

 

aight thanks, I'ma give it some more thought.

thanks though

 

I suggest you just buy a B18C1 block and put CTR or B16A pistons in it.

Just transfer over your head, tranny and other sensors. It would be a lot cheaper with the same amount of power if not more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b_cruz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest you just buy a B18C1 block and put CTR or B16A pistons in it.

Just transfer over your head, tranny and other sensors. It would be a lot cheaper with the same amount of power if not more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking going poor mans type R, but it would cost too much for machine work and install, and I'm still learning and researching about internal work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lil Corb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was thinking going poor mans type R, but it would cost too much for machine work and install, and I'm still learning and researching about internal work </TD></TR></TABLE>

what machine work are you talking about? to get the cylinder walls honed?

 

i picked up a brand new B18C5 shortblock from my local Aura dealer for 222.22 out the door (well plus tax)

Its now sitting in its new home, my 2000 Si.

 

$222? did you get a deal or reg price?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b_cruz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what machine work are you talking about? to get the cylinder walls honed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

getting the block honed, installing pistons, bearings, ect... I'm saying I'm capable of doing it, but it'll be one of those hit or miss things. If I mess up....

thanks

 

I still say save up for a custom stroker kit.
Tech43s kit would be nice.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=951003

 

$222 for a type r short block? What came with it?

 

rule of thumb: there's no replacement for displacement

 

lol im sorry guys. i meant to type 2222.22, and that was 20% over "cost"

it was a complete short block, came with all internals, pumps, oil pan and what not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QUiKSR20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats an EM1 ? ( better to just stick to the basics EF/EG/DC ) People are
going to flame you for asking 1/4 times lol im going to assume its a 4door? EG?

Either or id say some 14s off hand.. I really dont know Depends on alot of diff things</TD></TR></TABLE>

quiksr20 are you in Japan? the EM1 is the correct term for a Si most real u.s. HONDA tuners know that.. and i see your using the japanese chassis codes .. i know theres no coupes in Japan. just wondering.. o your in NJ is that NJ,Japan?

lil corb, what youre doing is gonna be nice.. i raced my buddys stock usdm b18c1 Si.. noticebly faster then a stock-ish Si. i believe he had a y21 tranny as well. hes planning on swapping heads with his b16 and have a 1.6 with secondaries to give it a lil more go down low..we'll see how that works out , then the poorman type-r is gonna be built. theres alot of options for you at this point. a 1.8 short block would be the best bet.. but the ease of just a swap is tempting. dont expect a whole lot of perfomance..its not like adding a turbo..but it will be quicker and not so sluggish down low. 1/4 times are approx. the same as a gsr, but youll have better gearing.

 

See that brings new problems to the table though, Swapping a long block as compared to resleeving and going with a stroker kit. If you buy a used long block theres a chance the person before you didnt break it in right and its weaker then most b18c's. Thats the only fear i have when getting a JDM motor(or any motor for that matter), could be a hit or miss.

 

Well my opinion is keep what u have or at least add a b18 block buy a full race kit. They make ac or non ac compatable, depending on whether or not you have gotten to the point where comfort is not as important as power. It is a little pricey but there is no comparison in the quality compared to other kits. With this set up you should be good for low 12's/high 11's=http://full-race.com/store/pro...id=36
Later....

 

I dont think hes going bigger displacement for turbo charging. Its more primarily NA.

 

thats why I bought my B18C5 short block brand new.

 

For the price you paid though, you could have a resleeved bottom end with higher comp. then a stock USDM ITR bottom end.

 

rebuilt motor will never be as good as a factory fresh model reliability wise.

 

Ha! Thats another one of those rumors you hear, but can never say it from self experience. Ask any of the drag racers(or experienced Engine builders) in the drag racing section, that is not true.

 

yea because people who build motors to drag race are concerned about every day reliability

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoeB18R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea because people who build motors to drag race are concerned about every day reliability </TD></TR></TABLE>
It broken in right with all the right clearenes and built right by a professional engine builder it could def. be on par with OEM builds(Its when not put together well when the people out there blame aftermarket builds for longevity problems). Seriously though ask any True engine builder on this board. I dont feel like having a little arguement over your ideas vs. mine. I rather spend 2gs on a full rebuild with a resleved bottom end and new pistons compared to you and your stock b18c5 USDM 10:5 bottom end.