4drEF

Curious why GSR or why C1?
Yeah, they are vtec, but this a boosted app so no need for vtec.
I understand the GSR to be better than C5/B16 because of the head geometry properties...
... but why does the LS get the thumbs down?
What are the shortcoming of a boosted LS when compared to the GSR?

DXHatch91

Thats what ive been asking so I can figure out which is better. from what ive heard so far I like the gsr but I also havent heard a better argument for the ls yet. Let me know what you think the more opinions the better.

civic88_jdm

hey my name is mario im from costa rica i have a 1993 civic vti (eg9) and i just swap a b18b1 on it i wanna know what can to do best time i did 16.6 on a 1/4 mile thats sad!! any help__

DXHatch91

Also does anybody know anything about revhard turbo kits are they a good brand/good kits???

turtleef

boost is pain man hope ur ready but the b1 will fit a stock profile for only 5/6 lbs over that u wont b boosting long thats bout 210 if ur running the proper injectors but 300hp nah ur gunna need lots mods aint worth it turbo alone is heavy on the wallet 210 will move u enuff u want power add wet 50 shot thats koo power right there but stock motors on turbo i no how ppl handle and aint pretty! good luck stay away from c1 if u wanna boost high compression is no good n those blocks r gettn harder to find hate to see anothr one go due to boost

turtleef

it will involve dyno tunning and ecu work just no that it aint a simple bolt n go and turbo map ur profile for the proper turbo plz dnt go big lik everyone thinks turbos are dirty but fun if done right dnt forget the trans either if u dnt plan on doing trans work go with a ls trans anything other thn is to short ratio dnt let that spool get up any one can hav 300 but if u cnt get it to go whats the point good luck friend

4drEF

turtleef, is your keyboard missing keys? It seems you have trouble typing entire words and abbreviate nearly everything in your cryptic gangsta' ghetto text language.
It would also be VERY helpful if you located a keyboard with punctuation marks.so we can figure out what in the world you really mean to say.

Beeean

My brother had a boosted LS on an OEM clutch and the clutch did slip some. So id go with a stage 2. And go with the GSR, they like boost.

turtleef

on a iphone so bare with me but okay.
vtec b18c1 vs b18b1
the b1 for boost is the over all choice if this is a stock turbo build because of its 9.2:1 compression over the c1 which sits at a 10:1 sure the head on the b18c1 is designed for top end flow and of course its vtec but turbo is a force induction it will create its own air. inorder to achieve 300 hp in a daily is not impossible but requires lots of money.

ur locking into a bottom end build and top end build to get a safe 300 forsure but u can get a 200 hp on a stock motor and be safe. but unfortunatly the way ever turbo drive is they add it for power not for fuel millage so its turbo in a common honda is always unreliable and cost effective during and after the build.
u need to make sure the right turbo is used and the fuel to support the turbo is used and the proper tune to keep it all stable if u skip any of thm ur creating a bomb. dnt expect to go over 6lbs on a stock motor if its a daily or that will not be a daily soon garenteed when going turbo its going to depend on how much ur willing to spend cuz you will be spending.

the right transmission is important aswell because a short geared trans lik b16 or gsr/type r will not allow u to spool up good enuff to actually create power u need a long gear transmission like the ls.

JuggerNaut-CTR

Piece of advice Mario...dont come on someone else's thread and try to take it over with your noob questions.
Top right of the screen has this wonderful lil button called "search". Your ? has been asked and awnsered to thousands of times.

Basics of making more power. For n/a motors you need compression, flow, cams. Or just boost it. Arp rod bolts & arp head studs on b18b1 = relieable 300whp.

4drEF

Hm, I see what you are saying turtleef, but I dont agree.
Bone stock D-motors do 210 rule of thumb before their skinny rods come into question.
From my understanding B-series can do abut 270 reliably. 300 can be had if the motor is in decent condition and the tune is awesome.
At around 300hp, the typical failures on the B motor seem to be OEM bolt failure and ringlands breaking from detonation/bad igntion tuning. Upgrade to ARP head and rod hardware and aftermarket pistons (rods while you're at it) make 300hp a walk in the park.

C1 is preferred for boost over the C5. The C5 is the same head casting as the B16 and basically the same flow properties with with the Type-R cleanup treatment. However, the C1 is a totally different casting with more suitable geometry (quench pads) for boost.

...but what about the C1 vs LS?

turtleef

yeah i agree 300 can be had but all falls on the someone doing the bluid power is there to make but power takes money especially force induction on hondas. he said daily so im thinkn he jus wants a turbo but of course if he starts building the bottom And topend the little horse power numbers add up if this is a stock build and wants this car to last i dont recommend over 6lbs with out a intercooler with a intercooler id say 8lbs but if hea thinking 10 and up it will not last inless some good money is put into that

turtleef

the b18b1 again is a winner for me due to it has a slightly longer stroke and bigger displacement turbo dont care about vtec its force inducting air. the torque on both motors are omost the same and theres alot that can be done to a stock b18b1 to give it more structure. adding thicker rod cap bolts a bottom b16 gard get the bottom alittle stronger. over all a ls is a fine motor left under the bus it jus needs alittle more tlc

BLU CIVIC

i've had both engines with the same set-up on each



advantages of the B18c1 is that you can make more power with less boost b/c the head flows more efficiently

advantages of the B18a/b is that it takes more to make the same power

with the LS i had torque on demand. i hit full boost at 3k rpm and it's tq steer like a mad man. with the GSR i'm lacking about 40lbs of tq compared to the LS but for me is much easier to drive. Both engines were stock and i kept the same 10.1 psi wastegate spring. IMO, the LS was a lot faster b/c it had more get up and go. The main advantage that the LS has is cost. Blow you B18a/b and $400 you'll be back on the road. after fixing minor oil issues i drove my turbo hatch reliably for almost a year until it was totaled by someone not paying attention. Would still be driving today. I've had my turbo sedan on the road for 2 months and have had zero issues with my turbo set-up. It's not cheap and doing it right the first time is the only way to go. Like i said, both motors were stock, well minus the S2 intake manifold, and both motors are good to just over 300whp in stock form

FYI to a lot of you, PSI has no bearing in what is reliable and unreliable, it's the amount of power you're making. You can make 250hp on a small turbo at like 12psi and make the same numbers at 4psi on a bigger turbo. so please, stop with the bad advice.

Also, stop making assumptions about transmissions. I had an LS trans in the my B18a and was perfect, just like the B16 trans i have with my GSR is perfect. Having a long geared trans means just that, you're in the gear longer. sure, when you shift you'll bet building up boost longer than you would if in a short geared trans, but with this short geared trans i'm always in my powerband vs dropping out of vtec like i would if i had an LS trans

OP...do your research and then ask questions.

sfar785

i love the guys who say you can run XXpsi on a stock block, what they leave out is what size turbo are you running XX?

turtleef

psi has everything to do with choose what turbo to use lol u jus dnt throw a mid size or big or small thinking ur gettn power u need the turbo that fits ur application anyone who talks bout engines being cost effective cuz u can keep replacing them nos nothing about making turbo power reliable turbo mapping is the biggest desider to turbo map you hav to no what psi u want to use u want a 300 horse build to last u 2 3 4 5+ years ur looking into money hands down and all starts with nowing what psi u would like and what horse power u want to get the perfect turbo only difference between small or big again is ur application if u build for high torque thn u want a bigger turbo get that top end if u got topend u want smaller turbo get that torqu tak off all falls into turbo mapping

turtleef

if u build it right u only worry bout maintaining if u put wrong turbos on with out doing ur homework u cause failure u want the best motor for turbo ima say b18b1 its everything force induction loves displacment longer stroke sad part is it needs more tlc to keep it together and yes its more affordable thats a givin but dnt leav out what maters. c1 is vtec sure but ppl been doing lsv for the longest now in the end horse powers koo but that dnt get u moving whats a car with out torque thats what wins

sfar785

it really depends on HP, not PSI. Stock LS can 300hp and still be dependable.

BLU CIVIC

turtleef

for every lb of boost is 10 horse increase whats the whole point of a force induction if psi dnt play a roll. horse power is only as good as how much air is introduced into combustion mixed with fuel to burn. psi is the main factor of turbo u cant turbo map with out noing ur pressure ratio to get a pr u need to no the boost u want to use. no psi (no boost) means no power no power = no hp fuel and oxygen thats what makes power. a proper turbo build is a larger volume of air with the matched fuel. thats it if there is a imbalance of the to ur either rich or lean to rich the world hates u ur slow and giv us bad air to breath and ur washing ur cylinders causing failure if ur to lean u hav a bomb ready to go off theres no inbetween with turbo its either right or its not

sfar785

turtleef

rookies wouldnt no good info when given no surprised tho wen torque steer is ur biggest worry yeah got more thn that going wrong like the single cam that passed you up lol. if interested the well done motors are all at the speedway in fontana this weekend 20 bucks to spectate the gas means go come on down id say run but poor motors dont pass inspection.

sfar785

4drEF

Freaking longest sentence in the world.
I added some . so maybe I can now make sense of what you are trying to say.

You are wrong and right in your long sentence, but mostly wrong and misleading.
Added comments.

Linville33

Well we have a revhard dyno place around me.I'm not for sure if same company but if you google revhard davenport iowa all you get is bad reviews because all they do is ride your motor hard. I know a guy who spent 4500 on a crate engine for his camaro and took it there and blew the motor and he has a huge bill now to rebuild it