B16 - was it boosted?
#1
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Thread Starter
B16 - was it boosted?
Hey Family, new user, back in the Honda game after a few years losing money into trucks, Supras and a 370z. Always comes back to the EG/EJ.
Im looking at buying a 95 EJ1 with a B16. The car was clearly boosted before, but the owner says not with this motor. It’s a little shady, so I’m asking, is there any real signs I can use to tell if the B16 was FI previously? The upper part of the header is aftermarket, but the lower is stock. So I’m suspicious, it’s also suspiciously cheap.
Anything to look for would be appreciated, it’s got lots of leaks/sweats for an engine claimed to be at only 135K
i know, it’s a risk. Any tips are welcome! Looking forward to being a Honda boy again!
Im looking at buying a 95 EJ1 with a B16. The car was clearly boosted before, but the owner says not with this motor. It’s a little shady, so I’m asking, is there any real signs I can use to tell if the B16 was FI previously? The upper part of the header is aftermarket, but the lower is stock. So I’m suspicious, it’s also suspiciously cheap.
Anything to look for would be appreciated, it’s got lots of leaks/sweats for an engine claimed to be at only 135K
i know, it’s a risk. Any tips are welcome! Looking forward to being a Honda boy again!
Last edited by Britishbeef; 04-24-2019 at 06:02 PM. Reason: Add pictures
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: B16 - was it boosted?
There's nothing that couldn't be "undone" if they really wanted to hide the fact that it had been boosted.
But yeah, as JR said a bung in the oil pan could be a giveaway. If they still have aftermarket injectors on it or any type of engine management I'd probably steer clear. Aftermarket MAP sensor. Bungs for catchcan lines on the valve cover.
These are all things that I left on my turbo D series when I removed the turbo and sold the car, but I fully disclosed its condition and prior use.
But yeah, as JR said a bung in the oil pan could be a giveaway. If they still have aftermarket injectors on it or any type of engine management I'd probably steer clear. Aftermarket MAP sensor. Bungs for catchcan lines on the valve cover.
These are all things that I left on my turbo D series when I removed the turbo and sold the car, but I fully disclosed its condition and prior use.
#6
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Thread Starter
Re: B16 - was it boosted?
Hey OGNAEG 2k Canadian and my plans are to keep it stock. The seller has been awesome this far, but I think maybe he doesn’t know it was (possibly boosted before).
picking it up tomorrow, it’s going to be a daily, so I’m looking for reliable. Honestly I was going to get an SI with the D16z6 but this came up and I can’t pass up B series Vtec yo! Lol
picking it up tomorrow, it’s going to be a daily, so I’m looking for reliable. Honestly I was going to get an SI with the D16z6 but this came up and I can’t pass up B series Vtec yo! Lol
Last edited by Britishbeef; 04-26-2019 at 05:40 AM. Reason: Spelling
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: B16 - was it boosted?
Hey ONEG. 2k Canadian and my plans are to keep it stock. The seller has been awesome this far, but I think maybe he doesn’t know it was (possibly boosted before).
picking it up tomorrow, it’s going to be a daily, so I’m looking for reliable. Honestly I was going to get an SI with the D16z6 but this came up and I can’t pass up B series Vtec yo! Lol
picking it up tomorrow, it’s going to be a daily, so I’m looking for reliable. Honestly I was going to get an SI with the D16z6 but this came up and I can’t pass up B series Vtec yo! Lol
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#8
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Re: B16 - was it boosted?
Like he said above, as long as you feel comfortable, inspect it well etc for $2k its pretty cheap. Curious if its a first or second gen B16 and what tranny your getting. Stock B16 longblocks can be had for reasonable $. Think HMO had one posted for 1,800 2nd gen. Not sure your $ situation but if this is your daily I would at a minimum have someone certified inspect it and the seller should agree to let you have it inspected by someone of your choice. I bought my EG for $1,300 with the original motor with like 134k miles on it ISH. But my ride was rusted out pretty bad BUT this is a side project for me. Maybe you can post some pics of it so we can get a visual of what your buying and maybe some more motor specs but usually things I would look into...
- oil anywhere around the pan, head, tranny, etc - inspect underneath the engine bay and since your in Canada I would definitely inspect under all quarter panels for rust
- drive the car, make hard turns any cluncking or axle issues
- AC work, PS work check for that as well and any leaks along the brake and clutch lines
- any smoke when driving and during idle
- look at the condition of the bolts that attach the header, intake, etc for wear might give you an indication of being taken off etc and if you see anything else that didn't age with the car as something that was replaced
- is the title clean??
- does the clutch slip or make noises
- check the wiring harness for indications of tapping it for whatever reason
- check suspension wear - since its your daily you might be spending some $ to replace some things in the near future
- any coolant leaks and check the condition of the coolant system - rust as well
These are just some things to consider so you get a better idea of what your getting, and yes get a compression test done to make sure the rings aren't poo.
At the end of the day IMO, $2k for a swapped running honda isn't a bad deal even with a couple of issues which you could resolve.
- oil anywhere around the pan, head, tranny, etc - inspect underneath the engine bay and since your in Canada I would definitely inspect under all quarter panels for rust
- drive the car, make hard turns any cluncking or axle issues
- AC work, PS work check for that as well and any leaks along the brake and clutch lines
- any smoke when driving and during idle
- look at the condition of the bolts that attach the header, intake, etc for wear might give you an indication of being taken off etc and if you see anything else that didn't age with the car as something that was replaced
- is the title clean??
- does the clutch slip or make noises
- check the wiring harness for indications of tapping it for whatever reason
- check suspension wear - since its your daily you might be spending some $ to replace some things in the near future
- any coolant leaks and check the condition of the coolant system - rust as well
These are just some things to consider so you get a better idea of what your getting, and yes get a compression test done to make sure the rings aren't poo.
At the end of the day IMO, $2k for a swapped running honda isn't a bad deal even with a couple of issues which you could resolve.
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: B16 - was it boosted?
Thanks for the awesome response, noted! It’s basically a beater to me for now, have to park my ram 1500 (hemi) as gas is $1.72 per litre right now in Vancouver.
The car is cheap, a Stock EJ here is going for about 1500-3000 so it’s a deal, but there is some unknowns and I like to reach out to the Honda community to do a sanity check first. Yes my worry is compression related if it’s been FI. He says the car doesn’t have much pull on Vtec, so now I’m concerned about timing/compression. It has lots of leaks, but I don’t wana be too excited on the day to get back in a Vtec DOHC and buy a lemon. I’ll keep your comments handy when I view the car.
Thanks for the thoughtful reply!
Like he said above, as long as you feel comfortable, inspect it well etc for $2k its pretty cheap. Curious if its a first or second gen B16 and what tranny your getting. Stock B16 longblocks can be had for reasonable $. Think HMO had one posted for 1,800 2nd gen. Not sure your $ situation but if this is your daily I would at a minimum have someone certified inspect it and the seller should agree to let you have it inspected by someone of your choice. I bought my EG for $1,300 with the original motor with like 134k miles on it ISH. But my ride was rusted out pretty bad BUT this is a side project for me. Maybe you can post some pics of it so we can get a visual of what your buying and maybe some more motor specs but usually things I would look into...
- oil anywhere around the pan, head, tranny, etc - inspect underneath the engine bay and since your in Canada I would definitely inspect under all quarter panels for rust
- drive the car, make hard turns any cluncking or axle issues
- AC work, PS work check for that as well and any leaks along the brake and clutch lines
- any smoke when driving and during idle
- look at the condition of the bolts that attach the header, intake, etc for wear might give you an indication of being taken off etc and if you see anything else that didn't age with the car as something that was replaced
- is the title clean??
- does the clutch slip or make noises
- check the wiring harness for indications of tapping it for whatever reason
- check suspension wear - since its your daily you might be spending some $ to replace some things in the near future
- any coolant leaks and check the condition of the coolant system - rust as well
These are just some things to consider so you get a better idea of what your getting, and yes get a compression test done to make sure the rings aren't poo.
At the end of the day IMO, $2k for a swapped running honda isn't a bad deal even with a couple of issues which you could resolve.
- oil anywhere around the pan, head, tranny, etc - inspect underneath the engine bay and since your in Canada I would definitely inspect under all quarter panels for rust
- drive the car, make hard turns any cluncking or axle issues
- AC work, PS work check for that as well and any leaks along the brake and clutch lines
- any smoke when driving and during idle
- look at the condition of the bolts that attach the header, intake, etc for wear might give you an indication of being taken off etc and if you see anything else that didn't age with the car as something that was replaced
- is the title clean??
- does the clutch slip or make noises
- check the wiring harness for indications of tapping it for whatever reason
- check suspension wear - since its your daily you might be spending some $ to replace some things in the near future
- any coolant leaks and check the condition of the coolant system - rust as well
These are just some things to consider so you get a better idea of what your getting, and yes get a compression test done to make sure the rings aren't poo.
At the end of the day IMO, $2k for a swapped running honda isn't a bad deal even with a couple of issues which you could resolve.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: B16 - was it boosted?
fairly clean. Has a water leak that I believe is the common firewall sealer issue. I’ve tried posting pics but it won’t upload (maybe because I’m brand new here)
Already repaired rear quarter rust, paint is black/faded so I’m going to wrap it black again. It’s beyond a polish/wet sand.
Axle back no name muffler, springs, control arms and a brace. Otherwise all stock.
DX chassis, so it’s basic. On 13” Steelies- bit of a sleeper when it’s cleaned up I think
#12
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Thread Starter
Re: B16 - was it boosted?
Hey guys - just an update, I didn’t get the car today. A broken sh*t box, major bogging on acceleration and the B16A didn’t pull at all. Guy kept saying it just needs a better header but it was too shady.
he also didn’t have the title in his name, it was actual another guys name and that bothered me. We call it curbing here.
Looking at a few other civics this weekend, thanks all for your input and time!
he also didn’t have the title in his name, it was actual another guys name and that bothered me. We call it curbing here.
Looking at a few other civics this weekend, thanks all for your input and time!
Like he said above, as
long as you feel comfortable, inspect it well etc for $2k its pretty cheap. Curious if its a first or second gen B16 and what tranny your getting. Stock B16 longblocks can be had for reasonable $. Think HMO had one posted for 1,800 2nd gen. Not sure your $ situation but if this is your daily I would at a minimum have someone certified inspect it and the seller should agree to let you have it inspected by someone of your choice. I bought my EG for $1,300 with the original motor with like 134k miles on it ISH. But my ride was rusted out pretty bad BUT this is a side project for me. Maybe you can post some pics of it so we can get a visual of what your buying and maybe some more motor specs but usually things I would look into...
- oil anywhere around the pan, head, tranny, etc - inspect underneath the engine bay and since your in Canada I would definitely inspect under all quarter panels for rust
- drive the car, make hard turns any cluncking or axle issues
- AC work, PS work check for that as well and any leaks along the brake and clutch lines
- any smoke when driving and during idle
- look at the condition of the bolts that attach the header, intake, etc for wear might give you an indication of being taken off etc and if you see anything else that didn't age with the car as something that was replaced
- is the title clean??
- does the clutch slip or make noises
- check the wiring harness for indications of tapping it for whatever reason
- check suspension wear - since its your daily you might be spending some $ to replace some things in the near future
- any coolant leaks and check the condition of the coolant system - rust as well
These are just some things to consider so you get a better idea of what your getting, and yes get a compression test done to make sure the rings aren't poo.
At the end of the day IMO, $2k for a swapped running honda isn't a bad deal even with a couple of issues which you could resolve.
long as you feel comfortable, inspect it well etc for $2k its pretty cheap. Curious if its a first or second gen B16 and what tranny your getting. Stock B16 longblocks can be had for reasonable $. Think HMO had one posted for 1,800 2nd gen. Not sure your $ situation but if this is your daily I would at a minimum have someone certified inspect it and the seller should agree to let you have it inspected by someone of your choice. I bought my EG for $1,300 with the original motor with like 134k miles on it ISH. But my ride was rusted out pretty bad BUT this is a side project for me. Maybe you can post some pics of it so we can get a visual of what your buying and maybe some more motor specs but usually things I would look into...
- oil anywhere around the pan, head, tranny, etc - inspect underneath the engine bay and since your in Canada I would definitely inspect under all quarter panels for rust
- drive the car, make hard turns any cluncking or axle issues
- AC work, PS work check for that as well and any leaks along the brake and clutch lines
- any smoke when driving and during idle
- look at the condition of the bolts that attach the header, intake, etc for wear might give you an indication of being taken off etc and if you see anything else that didn't age with the car as something that was replaced
- is the title clean??
- does the clutch slip or make noises
- check the wiring harness for indications of tapping it for whatever reason
- check suspension wear - since its your daily you might be spending some $ to replace some things in the near future
- any coolant leaks and check the condition of the coolant system - rust as well
These are just some things to consider so you get a better idea of what your getting, and yes get a compression test done to make sure the rings aren't poo.
At the end of the day IMO, $2k for a swapped running honda isn't a bad deal even with a couple of issues which you could resolve.
#14
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Re: B16 - was it boosted?
Glad you passed on it, and honestly, if something is say worth $5k why would anyone sell it for less. I am all about deals but you typically get what you pay for. Deals do some from time to time but I wouldn't expect much of a discount on them. I would expect to pay around $3k for a good chassis with few issues. Let alone a swapped car as in this case. Trust me its not worth it unless your overhauling the entire car. Got mine for $1,300 with rust issues but was expecting it and I am overhauling the entire car. My situation is much different then yours, have two daily drivers and my car is a long term project for me to have fun with. I think back in the day I paid $1k for a gen 2 JDM b16 long block and then found an Si hydro tranny for like $350 from some guy in Michigan. Car ran great for 2 years before I sold it. Honestly swapping these cars is so easy. Let us know if you find something else you feel more comfortable with. The header response from the seller is pretty lame too. Title issue, thats a no go.....
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