There's been a lot of talk about what axles to use and after doing some fitment testing on some customer cars down here, we came up with these senarios....

FYI: This was tested with the HCP EG-22 and EK-22 mount kits only.

Passenger side: 90-91 Integra axle. If you can't get it to say in the tranny, get some needle nose pliers and expand the snap ring ("C" clip" at the end of the axle) just a little but and put the axle into the transmission.... if you expand the snap ring, it'll be very tight to put the axle in so you'll need to force it in but once it's in, it's not going to slide out on you while driving/racing.

Driver side / Intermediate shaft: All depends what route you want to go. If you want to go the "traditional route" and get a 5-spd 90-93 Accord intermediate shaft, then you can use a 90-91 Integra driver side axle and everything bolts up. If you want to keep & use the existing 92-96 Prelude intermediate shaft, then you can use a 88-89 Integra driver side axle and put the 92-96 Prelude inner joint onto the 88-89 Integra axle so that it'll connect to the 92-96 Prelude intermediate shaft. Eitherway works.

Now, here's some "additional" information for you. Obviously if your car is lowered, it'll put more stress on the axle joints (that's for any mount kit). If you have a camber kit, it'll straighted the knuckles out and help a little bit with the joints. Now, if your axles are binding when you turn, you can try the following.

If your axles bind on the passenger side, you can take the 92-96 Prelude inner joint and put it onto the 90-91 Integra axle. The overall length will still be the same but the way the Prelude cup is designed, it allows for the axle to move in & out from the transmission with more play than the 90-91 Integra joint, thus giving your axle more room for play and not causing it to bind.

If your axles bind on the driver side, and if you're using the 90-93 Accord intermediate shaft, you can use the 88-89 Integra axle since it's an inch shorter and use that with the Accord intermediate shaft. Haven't run into axles binding on the driver side when using the Prelude intermediate shaft & 88-89 Integra axle w/Prelude inner joint.

Some things to consider:
If your car is really low, that'll cause your axles to bind more so raising your car up a little bit will help. With a stock height car, there are no axles binding. Also, a lot of "JDM H22" swaps that come over aren't always from the JDM Preludes. The Accord SiRs over there had H22 swaps in there and their intermediate shafts and rear trany brackets are different so you would need to use the 92-96 Prelude parts or a 90-93 Accord 5-spd intermediate shaft.

A little FYI on the side: Going back to saying that there's a lot of JDM Accord SiR H22 swaps that come over, this is the main reason why some people have problems with their H22 swaps and the rear tranny brackets. We had a complete front clip of a JDM Prelude here (sold it to a fellow HT member) but we tried the rear tranny bracket with a brand new US one that we picked up..... THE EXACT SAME THING. We used both brackets on a template H22 block in a straight EG6 chassis (hey, that's all that we had) and a straight DC2 chassis. The fitment is the same with both rear brackets and the HCP EG-22 mount kit (didn't have an EK chassis to test on but the same principle applies to it). The Accord rear tranny bracket looks similar to the Prelude rear tranny bracket, but when you put the motor in, you can see that it's off and there's stress on the bushings & mounts. SO, when using the HCP EG/EK-22 kits, use the 92-96 rear tranny brackets (either US or JDM will work).

Again, this is what we tested on 5 H22 cars down here in the past couple of weeks. I know some other people who had to do totally different setups on their cars with axles or what not to make it work, but then everyone's car is not exactly the same (whether it be from an accident or just slightly tweaked), but this should be a good reference for most of you to go off of. Feel free to add any comments/suggestions to this.

 

 

WOW that is some great Info!! Thanks Newman!

 

now, wht about the ef/ed chassis?

 

good info

 

Im considering lowering my car, but having the H22 in there is kinka backing me off... Is it worth spending the cash on springs and a camber kit for a measly 1'' or so drop or will the excessive wieght from the motor give it a small drop as is?
Thanks

good info too

 

good info newman

as far as lowering -- my car is SLAMMED all the way around, and I have zero issues with axles, and the angle of them is also not bad at all. I've had the swap since beginning of September and haven't had one issue with everything thus far.

BTW I'm using DSS axles with lude shaft, and hasport kit.

 

Good post. But Newman if you get me the rod lengths of both 90-91 and/or 88-89 teg axles then that would help as well. When I first did my swap DSS sent me the wrong axles lengths and although we figured out the correct length for the passenger side I still want to confirm that the driver's side is exactly how long it is supposed to be.

 

I kept my h22a intermdiate shaft put used 90-93 teg shafts, h22a inners, and 90-93 outers..

not tested yet, will this work, or my shafts will bind or pop out ??

EK chassis, hcp motor mounts, place racing drivers side mount, coil overs and ingalls camber correction plates...

any other suggestions, rather than change the drivers side to a 88-89 teg drivers shaft ???

or mine will work or will still cause problems ??

my car is lowered 3` inch right now... what is a good drop without hurting axel angles... 2 or is that even to much ??

thanx guys good post!!

-H

 

Ok, damnit Newman, this doesn't need to be archived anymore

 

Some new additional info that we've come across in the past month.....

If your car is binding, also check to see if your alignment is good - mainly the toe in/out on the car. We had a car come in and with some toe out on the passenger side and we adjusted the tie rod a few turns to bring the wheel back in, and that stopped the binding. Besides checking the axle, make sure your alignment is also correct.

If you use an Integra axle in the passenger side, you need to expand the snap ring (C-clip) with some needle nose pliers to keep the shaft inside the Prelude transmission, or it'll pop out while driving and you'll lose fluid. However, the shaft on the Prelude cup is deeper so it's better to swap out the Prelude inner joint on the passenger side and to use it on the 90-91 Integra axle. The cup is deeper and so is the shaft so it allows for the best amount of play with the axle, and keeping the joint connected to the tranny. The Integra axle & joint will still work, but it's recommended to use the Prelude joint as the shaft is longer and designed to "clip" into place inside the Prelude transmission. I'll put a "how to" on swapping the joints out. After doing quite a few of them, it's really pretty easy to change the joints out with a "rebuild" kit w/boot and axle grease and clips.

 

Newman, The lude inner CV joint is the same or close to the same as the integra joint? I have done Integras before, but not ludes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Newman, The lude inner CV joint is the same or close to the same as the integra joint? I have done Integras before, but not ludes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same... same diameter, same everything. Just the shaft/splines are longer so it's better with the Prelude tranny. If you've swapped out joints before or rebuilt axles with new boots, then it shouldn't be a prob.

 

Thanks Newman. Also do I order a rebuild kit for a lude or integra? I know that B-series and D-series axle boots are the same.


Modified by turbogixxer at 1:12 PM 7/15/2003

 

whats the diff in the axle's length on the 8-89 teg axle and the 90-93 teg axle?

 

Yes, the 8-89 are shorter

 

the h22 god

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Newman. Also do I order a rebuild kit for a lude or integra? I know that B-series and D-series axle boots are the same.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The boots are pretty much all the same, so any "rebuild kit" will work.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the diff in the axle's length on the 8-89 teg axle and the 90-93 teg axle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

About 1 to 1.25 inches shorter (the 88-89 Integra axles), but still same size joints & shafts.

 

Alright, I'm having binding issues myself, with an H22 EK w/HCP mounts.. I'm lowered 2" with 88-9 Teg axles, but have camber problems and am wondering.. Should I change the DS shaft with a DSS axle, attempt to change the inner joint with the Prelude one, or attempt to have a local shop shorten this 'teg axle by an inch or so.
I'm running a 50 shot of N20, and don't want to break axles. I will be dragging it again next season (dang winter) and again don't want to break axles. What are your throughts/recommendations? thanks guys!

 

you could try it. its easy. im runnin a 50 shot as well and i havent had a problem yet(knock on wood)my drivers side is a 90-93 teg and passenger side is a lude shaft with teg outer joint. im running hasport mounts though. id give it a shot. couldnt hurt. goodluck

 

Change the inner joint to a Prelude joint (longer shaft, deeper cup for more play and movement for the shaft), and get a camber kit. With the camber kit, it'll straighten up your hub with the axle joint so there will be less stress on the joint.

 

Great info. just bought a 94 hatch with h22. 12.8 1/4 mile. all motor! the second day ive had it and i broke the passenger axle. thanx for the info.

 

bottoms up for newman !!

 

I will try the Prelude axle angle and see what happens!!

 

I currently doing a 97SH H22A4 swap in my eg.
i'm stuck on the intermidiate shaft and tranny?
can you assist me on what year i can grab these parts off from?
i would really appreciate it.