Track alignment question
I have a track weekend coming up and would like some NSX trackaholics opinions. I've seen some alignment settings but would like to get a wider consensus on this subject. The goal is for max performance at the track. For this event, I couldn't care less for streetable comfort and stuff.
Currently, I'm running:
1. Koni SA shocks
2. Eibach springs
3. Dali Street/Race sways
4. Kumho Ecsta V700
5. Close as possible to stock alignment settings
6. novice driver w/ about 8 hours of track seat time.
I've read that some are running between 1.25 and 2.5 degrees of camber up front and 2 and 3 degrees in back. Caster is between 6 and 8 degrees. Toe out is between 3-4mm up front and rear toe in is 1-4mm also.
This may be a personal issue meaning that the alignment suits your driving style. I understand this. But I'd still like to get some kind of baseline (other than stock settings) that will get me "on the track" (note sly sense of humor) to max performance.
Thanks,
Shawn
[Modified by Ponyboy, 6:08 PM 4/23/2002]
Currently, I'm running:
1. Koni SA shocks
2. Eibach springs
3. Dali Street/Race sways
4. Kumho Ecsta V700
5. Close as possible to stock alignment settings
6. novice driver w/ about 8 hours of track seat time.
I've read that some are running between 1.25 and 2.5 degrees of camber up front and 2 and 3 degrees in back. Caster is between 6 and 8 degrees. Toe out is between 3-4mm up front and rear toe in is 1-4mm also.
This may be a personal issue meaning that the alignment suits your driving style. I understand this. But I'd still like to get some kind of baseline (other than stock settings) that will get me "on the track" (note sly sense of humor) to max performance.
Thanks,
Shawn
[Modified by Ponyboy, 6:08 PM 4/23/2002]
Have you not had the car aligned yet?
I've run .1" total toe-out front and .1" total toe-in rear, and liked it, but my ride height was set up for understeer at the time. I've since lowered my car a fair amount, which has added camber front and rear, probably added toe-in in the rear, and done god-knows what to the front toe and caster.
My camber was like -1.2 front and -2.0 rear. My ride height was fairly high.
If you're really a novice and just going for fun, just find something that feels fun and safe, and have a blast.
-Mike
I've run .1" total toe-out front and .1" total toe-in rear, and liked it, but my ride height was set up for understeer at the time. I've since lowered my car a fair amount, which has added camber front and rear, probably added toe-in in the rear, and done god-knows what to the front toe and caster.
My camber was like -1.2 front and -2.0 rear. My ride height was fairly high.
If you're really a novice and just going for fun, just find something that feels fun and safe, and have a blast.
-Mike
I think you're going to find that alignments are car dependent.
I was only able to get 1.7deg negative camber up front with 4.4deg positive castor and 1/8" toe out. While the rears are 2.0deg negative camber with 1/4" toe in.
These specs are definitly autocross specs. My car runs a 1.25" custom front sway bar, stock shocks and 225/245 Hoosiers.
For a road race alignment you would want almost no toe out up front or even some toe in. And possibly more toe in in the rear. More toe in leads to more high speed stability. With the Konis having less compression damping than the stock rear shocks keep your focus on overcoming rear bumpsteer, which can make the rear step out unexpectedly.
Have fun,
I was only able to get 1.7deg negative camber up front with 4.4deg positive castor and 1/8" toe out. While the rears are 2.0deg negative camber with 1/4" toe in.
These specs are definitly autocross specs. My car runs a 1.25" custom front sway bar, stock shocks and 225/245 Hoosiers.
For a road race alignment you would want almost no toe out up front or even some toe in. And possibly more toe in in the rear. More toe in leads to more high speed stability. With the Konis having less compression damping than the stock rear shocks keep your focus on overcoming rear bumpsteer, which can make the rear step out unexpectedly.
Have fun,
Oh, never mind I just noticed now that you have a NSX.
In that case, race tires like negative camber. The more the better. Keep an eye on tire pressures and rollover to best determine how much negative camber you really need. Also if someone has a pyrometer get some temps across the width of the tire and you can better plan camber for the next event.
Toe setting still apply. Toe in = high speed stability, while toe out = increased turn in and rotation.
In that case, race tires like negative camber. The more the better. Keep an eye on tire pressures and rollover to best determine how much negative camber you really need. Also if someone has a pyrometer get some temps across the width of the tire and you can better plan camber for the next event.
Toe setting still apply. Toe in = high speed stability, while toe out = increased turn in and rotation.
Have you not had the car aligned yet?
I do consider myself a novice but good enough to know the basics. For comparison, I ran a 1:34 at Hallett while a good driver in a Z06 ran 1:31s. Hopefully, I can make that up with better driving and 135 more horsepower.
Thanks for your input guys.
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