S2000 AutoX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01DC4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...As far as brakes everyone other S2K owner ive talked to raves about theres and i think think mine pretty much suck even before the event today pretty sure i was a lil too hard on them to fast and they werent broken in properly</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's something wrong with your brakes. I can stand on my pedal from 100+mph and students will complain that they leave their seats.
There's something wrong with your brakes. I can stand on my pedal from 100+mph and students will complain that they leave their seats.
there are some interesting opinions here... so ill just say a few more things.
Falkens are not junk, they were 'the' tire to have for a long while and have great grip and stiff sidewalls. the issue with them is they perform well cold. if you are running falken azenis, you should get a sprayer to keep them cool between runs (especially at beaver where you do 2 sets of 3 back to back runs). at north hills you will have a bit more cool down time. Also, i wouldnt daily drive on azenis. the S if fairly light, but you will still eat them up if you commute long enough to get them up to temp, or drive aggressive daily. also, once they get too hot, they are pretty slick. KDW's will last much longer if you plan on DDing the same tires you autoX. on my old car, i put about 15 races + 20k miles on a set of kdws... it was a prelude tho, so i could also rotate the tires.
as far as class goes, you have to make a decision. race to be competative and build the car for it, or race for fun and build the car how ever you want. If want to be competative, its a well accepted fact that THE class for the S is A Stock. its also cheapest to build for since you will only need a front sway, exhaust, intake filter, shocks, tires and an alignment to be full prepped
Also if your planning on running A stock, your allowed to run Rcomp tires, in which case you would need an extra set of rims and some means of getting the rcomps to the race.
again. i suggest not changing anything for a year or so and learn the car. granted its an AP2, but its still a twitchy car if you havent slid it around alot.
Modified by marks_lude at 6:16 AM 4/3/2008
Falkens are not junk, they were 'the' tire to have for a long while and have great grip and stiff sidewalls. the issue with them is they perform well cold. if you are running falken azenis, you should get a sprayer to keep them cool between runs (especially at beaver where you do 2 sets of 3 back to back runs). at north hills you will have a bit more cool down time. Also, i wouldnt daily drive on azenis. the S if fairly light, but you will still eat them up if you commute long enough to get them up to temp, or drive aggressive daily. also, once they get too hot, they are pretty slick. KDW's will last much longer if you plan on DDing the same tires you autoX. on my old car, i put about 15 races + 20k miles on a set of kdws... it was a prelude tho, so i could also rotate the tires.
as far as class goes, you have to make a decision. race to be competative and build the car for it, or race for fun and build the car how ever you want. If want to be competative, its a well accepted fact that THE class for the S is A Stock. its also cheapest to build for since you will only need a front sway, exhaust, intake filter, shocks, tires and an alignment to be full prepped
Also if your planning on running A stock, your allowed to run Rcomp tires, in which case you would need an extra set of rims and some means of getting the rcomps to the race.
again. i suggest not changing anything for a year or so and learn the car. granted its an AP2, but its still a twitchy car if you havent slid it around alot.
Modified by marks_lude at 6:16 AM 4/3/2008
Alot of great info on here the biggest problem i was having was the car understeering on the skidpad and brakes of course,Was wondering about Cusco sway bars front and rear ,?...Best time yesterday was a 40.9 in crazy modded 350z(by instructor) my time was a 42.0
If you want to stay in stock, you can only do the front sway, which would be counter productive if you are already understeering alot. AP1's tend to over steer, and typically go with the largest front sway possible.
If you truely want to stay in stock, i would look at playing around with tire setup and widths to help with the gettin a neutral car. you can also mess around with pressures some as well to try to get what you want out of your current setup.
If you truely want to stay in stock, i would look at playing around with tire setup and widths to help with the gettin a neutral car. you can also mess around with pressures some as well to try to get what you want out of your current setup.
ok ill look into that because even with not the best traction at BR the car had terrible understeer around the skid pad ( mid course had you do a 3/4 lap around the skid pad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01DC4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok ill look into that because even with not the best traction at BR the car had terrible understeer around the skid pad ( mid course had you do a 3/4 lap around the skid pad)</TD></TR></TABLE>
if understeer is really your problem...trying adding about 2 or 3psi in ur front tires and dropping 2 or 3 in the back. also, lifting off the throttle just slightly at the right time in the corner can make the back of the car really come around, too...becareful though or your car will go all the way around.
if understeer is really your problem...trying adding about 2 or 3psi in ur front tires and dropping 2 or 3 in the back. also, lifting off the throttle just slightly at the right time in the corner can make the back of the car really come around, too...becareful though or your car will go all the way around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01DC4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok ill look into that because even with not the best traction at BR the car had terrible understeer around the skid pad ( mid course had you do a 3/4 lap around the skid pad)</TD></TR></TABLE>
definitly talk to someone with a comparable car and see what pressures they are running. you can do more than you would think with tire pressure.
as you can see, the far corner of the BR lot gets covered with blown dirt, which can make turning a car difficult. again as i said, cars slide all around at BR which is why everyone calls it the iceskating rink
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=...&z=18
definitly talk to someone with a comparable car and see what pressures they are running. you can do more than you would think with tire pressure.
as you can see, the far corner of the BR lot gets covered with blown dirt, which can make turning a car difficult. again as i said, cars slide all around at BR which is why everyone calls it the iceskating rink
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=...&z=18
You attended the BeaveRun low key events. It is run by BeaveRun, not SCCA or North Hills.
North Hills has a test and tune and autox school this Saturday, if you plan to attend I would suggest finding Randy Pearson (he will be there in the #71 STX WRX) and asking him to be your instructor. Randy ran a AS S2000 for many seasons and is a brilliant driver. If Randy is tied up with other students find another instructor to help you through the day.
April 6th is the regular North Hills autox, and you should be able to apply what you learnt the day before.
April 26th is the Steel Cities Test and tune at BeaveRun in the VDA. Currently there are 5 open spots left.
April 27th is the Steel Cities season opener at BeaveRun, if you attend the test and tune plan to camp out.
Welcome to the madness, also if you end up getting serious you'll start running R compounds. Although, with North hills you can run "street" tires like RT-615s or RE-01Rs in the regular stock class and R comps in the PAX class. Steel Cities has a street tire challenge for cars on street tires.
North Hills has a test and tune and autox school this Saturday, if you plan to attend I would suggest finding Randy Pearson (he will be there in the #71 STX WRX) and asking him to be your instructor. Randy ran a AS S2000 for many seasons and is a brilliant driver. If Randy is tied up with other students find another instructor to help you through the day.
April 6th is the regular North Hills autox, and you should be able to apply what you learnt the day before.
April 26th is the Steel Cities Test and tune at BeaveRun in the VDA. Currently there are 5 open spots left.
April 27th is the Steel Cities season opener at BeaveRun, if you attend the test and tune plan to camp out.
Welcome to the madness, also if you end up getting serious you'll start running R compounds. Although, with North hills you can run "street" tires like RT-615s or RE-01Rs in the regular stock class and R comps in the PAX class. Steel Cities has a street tire challenge for cars on street tires.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01DC4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok ill look into that because even with not the best traction at BR the car had terrible understeer around the skid pad ( mid course had you do a 3/4 lap around the skid pad)</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is your alignment like? Understeer in a stock S2000 doesn't sound right.
What is your alignment like? Understeer in a stock S2000 doesn't sound right.
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