Rear Diff question!!!
I've been hearing a lot about the S2000 rear diff, I was wondering is it really that weak? Also if it breaks within your warranty, do they fix it?
And how can you tell when it is gonna break? Are their any sounds you should listen for or anything? Thanks guys.... And thank you Nishant because I know you'll probably respond first! Lol
And how can you tell when it is gonna break? Are their any sounds you should listen for or anything? Thanks guys.... And thank you Nishant because I know you'll probably respond first! Lol
Nishant wouldnt know, he never launches the car.
The rear is weak, but its not glass. It could break on your first 6k clutch drop or the thousandth drop.
Honda's been known to cover some, but dont count on it.
The rear just doesnt break, it goes under abuse. Doent launch if your that worried.
The rear is weak, but its not glass. It could break on your first 6k clutch drop or the thousandth drop. Honda's been known to cover some, but dont count on it.
The rear just doesnt break, it goes under abuse. Doent launch if your that worried.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hundreds of 7k launches on my car. Zero problems.
Rear diff going= Not knowing how to drive the car or making too much power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
making to much power isn't really an issue either... my buddy has/had a 445rwhp S. and drags the car a lot... lots of launches and still no problems with the rear diff... he's now upping up to 650+rwhp range...
Rear diff going= Not knowing how to drive the car or making too much power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
making to much power isn't really an issue either... my buddy has/had a 445rwhp S. and drags the car a lot... lots of launches and still no problems with the rear diff... he's now upping up to 650+rwhp range...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03s2kblue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
making to much power isn't really an issue either... my buddy has/had a 445rwhp S. and drags the car a lot... lots of launches and still no problems with the rear diff... he's now upping up to 650+rwhp range...</TD></TR></TABLE>
and the crucial question is what is his 60" time?
At that power level he should be getting low 11 or 10 at least but he's not getting that time because of the weak drive train in the S. He prob takes it easy off the line and catch up from 1/4 to mid track.
Beside gaining some drag racing experiene it's a waste of time to take the S with stock drive train to the drag. All of the FI owners know that is our limiting achille.
We cant use sticky tyres, can't do burn out properly otherwise too much grip off the line, can't launch at high rpm etc etc
I took the car to the drag a few times but always had back up plan ready.....and I had to use them. I took the car to the drag when I had a vortech supercharger and stock diff. After 7 launches at around 5k rpm with so3 + 18" and the diff got noisy. Upgraded the gear ratio to 4.44 with a new set of bearings. I then took it to the drag strip again (for destruction test
) with a turbocharger system with medium boost (of around 15 psi, limited by the weak drive train). I had 3 launches with 16" RE050 tyes. First 2 launches OK with crappy 60" time. I then tried a few drag racing tricks, launched at 3700rpm, the axle snapped and the gearbox broke. The damage in the gearbox is unknown at the moment, I will open it up when I have time.
I've worked extensively with the local engineering shop, http://www.kandamotorsport.com.au, drawing knowleges and support from http://www.willallracing.com.au for cost effective, indestructible and simple upgrade for the S. I have finally upgraded the box and diff. I will hit the drag strip again when the weather is better.
making to much power isn't really an issue either... my buddy has/had a 445rwhp S. and drags the car a lot... lots of launches and still no problems with the rear diff... he's now upping up to 650+rwhp range...</TD></TR></TABLE>
and the crucial question is what is his 60" time?
At that power level he should be getting low 11 or 10 at least but he's not getting that time because of the weak drive train in the S. He prob takes it easy off the line and catch up from 1/4 to mid track.
Beside gaining some drag racing experiene it's a waste of time to take the S with stock drive train to the drag. All of the FI owners know that is our limiting achille.
We cant use sticky tyres, can't do burn out properly otherwise too much grip off the line, can't launch at high rpm etc etc
I took the car to the drag a few times but always had back up plan ready.....and I had to use them. I took the car to the drag when I had a vortech supercharger and stock diff. After 7 launches at around 5k rpm with so3 + 18" and the diff got noisy. Upgraded the gear ratio to 4.44 with a new set of bearings. I then took it to the drag strip again (for destruction test
) with a turbocharger system with medium boost (of around 15 psi, limited by the weak drive train). I had 3 launches with 16" RE050 tyes. First 2 launches OK with crappy 60" time. I then tried a few drag racing tricks, launched at 3700rpm, the axle snapped and the gearbox broke. The damage in the gearbox is unknown at the moment, I will open it up when I have time.I've worked extensively with the local engineering shop, http://www.kandamotorsport.com.au, drawing knowleges and support from http://www.willallracing.com.au for cost effective, indestructible and simple upgrade for the S. I have finally upgraded the box and diff. I will hit the drag strip again when the weather is better.
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whos your "buddy" I have had 2 diffs in my car. they dont last! after 4 hard starts the new diff was making noise.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hundreds of 7k launches on my car. Zero problems.
Rear diff going= Not knowing how to drive the car or making too much power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Rear diff going= Not knowing how to drive the car or making too much power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda9krpm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've worked extensively with the local engineering shop, http://www.kandamotorsport.com.au, drawing knowleges and support from http://www.willallracing.com.au for cost effective, indestructible and simple upgrade for the S. I have finally upgraded the box and diff. I will hit the drag strip again when the weather is better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
too bad i have wrote kanda more then once and they wont write back??? I guess they dont like us in the U.S.A
I've worked extensively with the local engineering shop, http://www.kandamotorsport.com.au, drawing knowleges and support from http://www.willallracing.com.au for cost effective, indestructible and simple upgrade for the S. I have finally upgraded the box and diff. I will hit the drag strip again when the weather is better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
too bad i have wrote kanda more then once and they wont write back??? I guess they dont like us in the U.S.A
yes I know how that feel too 
I've been trying to order some stuffs from the US for my spare engine rebuild and has not been too successful with my emails too. I will give them a call when I have more times and less things on my plate.
Turbo, K&A are very busy with all of their contracts and rarely on the computers
they also had a recent computer virus infection problem as well and are upgrading their computers
what do you need blkturbos2k?
I can ask for you or give them a call if you want it urgently.

I've been trying to order some stuffs from the US for my spare engine rebuild and has not been too successful with my emails too. I will give them a call when I have more times and less things on my plate.
Turbo, K&A are very busy with all of their contracts and rarely on the computers
they also had a recent computer virus infection problem as well and are upgrading their computers
what do you need blkturbos2k?
I can ask for you or give them a call if you want it urgently.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda9krpm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes I know how that feel too 
I've been trying to order some stuffs from the US for my spare engine rebuild and has not been too successful with my emails too. I will give them a call when I have more times and less things on my plate.
Turbo, K&A are very busy with all of their contracts and rarely on the computers
they also had a recent computer virus infection problem as well and are upgrading their computers
what do you need blkturbos2k?
I can ask for you or give them a call if you want it urgently.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need your damn diff
How about this. you help me with the parts there and i will help u with them here! That should work out. I should have well over 600rwhp so i know the diff is done. what did you do to the gearbox

I've been trying to order some stuffs from the US for my spare engine rebuild and has not been too successful with my emails too. I will give them a call when I have more times and less things on my plate.
Turbo, K&A are very busy with all of their contracts and rarely on the computers
they also had a recent computer virus infection problem as well and are upgrading their computers
what do you need blkturbos2k?
I can ask for you or give them a call if you want it urgently.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need your damn diff
How about this. you help me with the parts there and i will help u with them here! That should work out. I should have well over 600rwhp so i know the diff is done. what did you do to the gearbox
:lol: I see what I can do
just be patience
The difficult bit to get for this conversion is the Nissan 240sx/JDM S13 diff with 5 bolts stub axles. We can get them new from nissan for a descend price. However they never break even after abuse so why bother with a new one. If the lsd is worn you just need to reshim it or get a mechanical cusco/kaaz/ats lsd or something. A used s13 diff is so cheap on ebay in the US so why pay extra for a new one + freight from Australia (IMHO).
So, if you can get a S13 diff with 5 bolts stub axles from your side (and they can suply you everything else) then the conversion will be a very easy.
I am using a prototype dogbox atm, it will be along time before release. The strengthened synchro helical gears are in production and will be on the shelf soon.
just use ebay for the diff
alternatively they can supply everything
just be patience The difficult bit to get for this conversion is the Nissan 240sx/JDM S13 diff with 5 bolts stub axles. We can get them new from nissan for a descend price. However they never break even after abuse so why bother with a new one. If the lsd is worn you just need to reshim it or get a mechanical cusco/kaaz/ats lsd or something. A used s13 diff is so cheap on ebay in the US so why pay extra for a new one + freight from Australia (IMHO).
So, if you can get a S13 diff with 5 bolts stub axles from your side (and they can suply you everything else) then the conversion will be a very easy.
I am using a prototype dogbox atm, it will be along time before release. The strengthened synchro helical gears are in production and will be on the shelf soon.
just use ebay for the diff
alternatively they can supply everything
I guess I am not the first to post but anyhow what i would have said is covered. The car is like any other car, too much abuse and things will break. One key thing is on launches, you must get the tires to spin. If you don't, the dif is being overstressed which leads to breaking. Many of the s2k drag racers who are pretty fast for stock have had no issues. In most cases of the diff breaking, its the driver, at least from the majority of what i have seen. There have been a couple cases where it just breaks but the owners do not post much info so i can't say. hope that helps
<--Nishant who has been MIA and prob will be for awhile
<--Nishant who has been MIA and prob will be for awhile
I don't see how knowing how to drive has anything to do with this. Launching is a nessisary part of autocross, and I'd imagine drag as well. So you can't say launching is a bad practice. I can't see what else could cause the diff to blow apart from launching. I'm thinking that some random diffs are just flawed, since so many people have launched tons of times without a hitch.
My brother's diff stood up to thousands of launches, and a good part of those launches where on a act 6puck unsprung clutch and/or victoracer v700's. Finally the axle joint popped on a normal start. The stock diff never went bad. After that, everything about the pumpkin was upgraded, so it definitely should not be a problem now.
My brother's diff stood up to thousands of launches, and a good part of those launches where on a act 6puck unsprung clutch and/or victoracer v700's. Finally the axle joint popped on a normal start. The stock diff never went bad. After that, everything about the pumpkin was upgraded, so it definitely should not be a problem now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see how knowing how to drive has anything to do with this. Launching is a nessisary part of autocross, and I'd imagine drag as well. So you can't say launching is a bad practice. I can't see what else could cause the diff to blow apart from launching. I'm thinking that some random diffs are just flawed, since so many people have launched tons of times without a hitch.
My brother's diff stood up to thousands of launches, and a good part of those launches where on a act 6puck unsprung clutch and/or victoracer v700's. Finally the axle joint popped on a normal start. The stock diff never went bad. After that, everything about the pumpkin was upgraded, so it definitely should not be a problem now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
when i said driving, i meant launching
My brother's diff stood up to thousands of launches, and a good part of those launches where on a act 6puck unsprung clutch and/or victoracer v700's. Finally the axle joint popped on a normal start. The stock diff never went bad. After that, everything about the pumpkin was upgraded, so it definitely should not be a problem now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
when i said driving, i meant launching
buy the diff and I'll let you know next week....I am so busy this week with work 
I think the price will be similar to what I said in the "diff converion thread" in my signature. It's affordable and don't expect anything ridiculously high. There will be 2 types of axles avalaible, depending on how destruction testing go. The weaker axles uses existing outer honda cv housing and the stronger one used 2 stronger inner and outer cv's. Blkturbos2k, I recommend you use the the drag racing 1000hp axles though
I will see if I can hurry them with the production for you blkturbos2k.
btw what sleeves are you using? I'll prob need your help to get them for my spare engine.

I think the price will be similar to what I said in the "diff converion thread" in my signature. It's affordable and don't expect anything ridiculously high. There will be 2 types of axles avalaible, depending on how destruction testing go. The weaker axles uses existing outer honda cv housing and the stronger one used 2 stronger inner and outer cv's. Blkturbos2k, I recommend you use the the drag racing 1000hp axles though
I will see if I can hurry them with the production for you blkturbos2k.
btw what sleeves are you using? I'll prob need your help to get them for my spare engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when i said driving, i meant launching</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wasn't questioning you, meant for that to be directed to LSHatch's first post. I thought he was ******* people that launch. Your post made sense
when i said driving, i meant launching</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wasn't questioning you, meant for that to be directed to LSHatch's first post. I thought he was ******* people that launch. Your post made sense
Thats good. I have spent way 2 much money. If I could gwt it cheap then I will be happy. What trans are you using? I thought a Supra auto would be great. I would def want the high Hp set up. I want to be able to bang the hell out of it and it not break
yes but there is no single simple differential unit replacement (that fit the s2k without conversion kit) will survive serious drag racing
http://www.kandamotorsport.com.au has the conversion kit to use a cheap bullet proof JDM S13 diff for the S2000. You can buy the conversion kit and source a s13 diff from USA or get everthing from them for a simple conversion. You will use your existing properller shaft and everything after that will be replaced. For more information on the parts in the kit, click the thread in my signature.
I hope that help hondas2000
Sorry guys I've been busy and have not post any update.
I will post an update next week.
http://www.kandamotorsport.com.au has the conversion kit to use a cheap bullet proof JDM S13 diff for the S2000. You can buy the conversion kit and source a s13 diff from USA or get everthing from them for a simple conversion. You will use your existing properller shaft and everything after that will be replaced. For more information on the parts in the kit, click the thread in my signature.
I hope that help hondas2000

Sorry guys I've been busy and have not post any update.
I will post an update next week.
Is there a serious interest in pre-built rear ends? Thinking about building some up to sell if so. Price would be up to ~$3k for a modified s2k housing/innards (simple bolt in, pretty much bulletproof). Didn't see how much the Nissan conversion would cost, so I'm not sure if this is worth it or not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wasn't questioning you, meant for that to be directed to LSHatch's first post. I thought he was ******* people that launch. Your post made sense
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me, ******* people that launch???? Hahahahahah!
LSHatch who launches at 7k+ on the street and track all the time.
And actually, the majority of diffs that break are from driver error, not from the stock diff being bad.
Nishant- Stop saying you need the wheels to spin when you launch the car. Zero wheel spin is better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Me, ******* people that launch???? Hahahahahah!
LSHatch who launches at 7k+ on the street and track all the time.
And actually, the majority of diffs that break are from driver error, not from the stock diff being bad.
Nishant- Stop saying you need the wheels to spin when you launch the car. Zero wheel spin is better.
surely there is some way to make the factory diff stronger. cryo some stuff or what have you.
what part of the diff fails
make that part stronger and problem solved.
i am not saying that the nissan option isnt a valuable option, i just think that there has got to be a way to keep it honda.
i feel like a heretic using non honda stuff.
what part of the diff fails
make that part stronger and problem solved.
i am not saying that the nissan option isnt a valuable option, i just think that there has got to be a way to keep it honda.
i feel like a heretic using non honda stuff.
LSHatch, what types of things should people avoid doing to avoid diff breakage?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">surely there is some way to make the factory diff stronger. cryo some stuff or what have you.
what part of the diff fails
make that part stronger and problem solved.
i am not saying that the nissan option isnt a valuable option, i just think that there has got to be a way to keep it honda.
i feel like a heretic using non honda stuff. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can strengthen your Honda rear end. You just have to replace everything on it
Housing could break, replace with Comptech reinforced housing. Ring and pinion can break, replace with stronger one, like Rick's 4.56. LSD could break, replace with much stronger one, or clutch type.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">surely there is some way to make the factory diff stronger. cryo some stuff or what have you.
what part of the diff fails
make that part stronger and problem solved.
i am not saying that the nissan option isnt a valuable option, i just think that there has got to be a way to keep it honda.
i feel like a heretic using non honda stuff. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can strengthen your Honda rear end. You just have to replace everything on it
Housing could break, replace with Comptech reinforced housing. Ring and pinion can break, replace with stronger one, like Rick's 4.56. LSD could break, replace with much stronger one, or clutch type.


