I would just like to say I'm more happy than anything, just finished dyno'ing the car. The car seemed to die higher rpm (8-9k) after the CAI. And as I had expected, it was hurting me beyond belief.



Sorry for such the bad quality, it was taken with a digital. It reads 199.5hp and 140.4tq, with 183.2hp and 109.3tq at redline!!! **** load of black smoke up top. I should be hitting 210+ with the stock air box back on and the stock a/f of 12.5-13.0 to redline.

For those thinking the stock airbox design isn't great, it works the best. I'm hitting a 10 A/F or lower (falls off the chart) from 7k to redline. It completely threw off my stock tune, so the stock box is going back on.

 

is it supposta loose 40 hp to the wheels?

 

of course

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it supposta loose 40 hp to the wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eh, I don't get it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it supposta loose 40 hp to the wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the 240hp that Honda quotes is flywheel hp not wheel hp.

Greg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it supposta loose 40 hp to the wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yup typical drivetrain loss is 15% which equals 204 WHP, very close to 199.5 that he put down.

 

And considering my a/f, wow it feels good to know I have a hard running F20C1.

 

That just goes to show how delicately tuned these machines are.....good work honda.

 

yup, thats why mine stays stock

 

I think that's about right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Yup typical drivetrain loss is 15% which equals 204 WHP, very close to 199.5 that he put down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dyno sheet seems correct for a stock S2000 (around 200 whp)

 

Truely, the only benefit I ever saw was a single N1 exhaust (due to weight loss), no serious power gains. I've learned it the hard way, with money spent, that the S2000 is the best factory tuned car that Honda makes, in my opinion.

The CAI dropped me an easy 5rwhp+, but put my tq up by 2. No real gain, only a loss there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, thats why mine stays stock </TD></TR></TABLE>

W3rd, No bolt ons here - no thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LS60-1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The dyno sheet seems correct for a stock S2000 (around 200 whp)</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 2004 models are putting down 240 +, or so I have read.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The 2004 models are putting down 240 +, or so I have read.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's on a dynapack dyno, where the larger wheels and tires are irrelevent to the picture.

 

What kind of intake was it?

 

next mod....

Try VAFCII.. got + 9 HP with hr of tunning..

 

kool

 

my stock intake is staying. don't want the heat soak problems of a short ram intake(hot air = loss of hp) and don't want the problems of hydrolock or debris taken in from a CAI. and remember that high flowing filters might gain you hp, but its letting a lot more debris get into the engine...causing accelerated engine wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my stock intake is staying. don't want the heat soak problems of a short ram intake(hot air = loss of hp) and don't want the problems of hydrolock or debris taken in from a CAI. and remember that high flowing filters might gain you hp, but its letting a lot more debris get into the engine...causing accelerated engine wear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

In terms of higher flowing filters, oil tests are the best proof of higher silicone content leading to "dirtier" oil. K&N filters are the best compromise b/w good flow and good filtration. Some argue that K&N filters may risk filtration for better flow but I have yet to see oil tests taken from my car to prove otherwise.

 

i made 203whp with a aem cai.... all f20c's are diff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my stock intake is staying. don't want the heat soak problems of a short ram intake(hot air = loss of hp) and don't want the problems of hydrolock or debris taken in from a CAI. and remember that high flowing filters might gain you hp, but its letting a lot more debris get into the engine...causing accelerated engine wear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

get the comptech. it's what we have. dyno proven by comptech, what more do you want? cold air and no chance of hydrolock.

edit: The Comptech Icebox Air Intake System is designed to pull inlet air from outside the engine compartment to ensure that denser cold air is actually getting to the engine. Our design also helps keep intake noise to a minimum. The kits use a foam filter that can be cleaned and reused. Please click on the Dyno Graph heading to see power improvements. All Comptech air intake systems are 50 state emissions legal. Comptech also offers high flow foam air filters that are a direct replacement for the standard factory filter and can be cleaned and reused.
http://solar.innercite.com/comptech/320030.html
dyno: http://www.comptechusa.com/ima...e.pdf
5 peak hp, 6 at redline.

 

Good #'s man