Cryogenics Rotors?
They are frozen to under 300 degrees making them stronger and built to last longer then regular untreated rotors.
What do you guys think of them? Would you buy them?
What do you guys think of them? Would you buy them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Freezing metal makes it more brittle...</TD></TR></TABLE>
And what do you plan on throwing the rotors at to make it break? The stress on a rotor will be from the pads/calipers pressing in it, not trying to shatter it against some concrete.
I've never heard of them, but how about you try it and let us know?
And what do you plan on throwing the rotors at to make it break? The stress on a rotor will be from the pads/calipers pressing in it, not trying to shatter it against some concrete.
I've never heard of them, but how about you try it and let us know?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude1911 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are frozen to under 300 degrees making them stronger and built to last longer then regular untreated rotors.
What do you guys think of them? Would you buy them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't see it worth the money you spend. ask any track guys
What do you guys think of them? Would you buy them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't see it worth the money you spend. ask any track guys
its to make them denser and to deal with wear and tear better. its more of a longevity vs performance thing.
racing is all about what to do with the immense heat generated by threshold breaking.
i think tehy would be worth it if tehy were under say...a 35 dollar difference per rotor compared to a factory rotor.
PS I had some gears cryoed in an older car that i had...it was to keep the pinion and ring gear alive for clutch dumps. it was an AWD car
racing is all about what to do with the immense heat generated by threshold breaking.
i think tehy would be worth it if tehy were under say...a 35 dollar difference per rotor compared to a factory rotor.
PS I had some gears cryoed in an older car that i had...it was to keep the pinion and ring gear alive for clutch dumps. it was an AWD car
Well if it last as long as they say 100-300% longer then I think they are worth it. Instead of spending money on new rotors and working on it again and again. I have a Nissan Titan and the dealer just resurface the rotors and now they are screw up again. I want to try a set on my truck and see how it does but they are really expensive. $140.00 each for slotted ones.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Freezing metal makes it more brittle...</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are not going to throw it in the chiller right off the casting process, they go thru step down just like most heat treated metal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what do you plan on throwing the rotors at to make it break? The stress on a rotor will be from the pads/calipers pressing in it, not trying to shatter it against some concrete.
I've never heard of them, but how about you try it and let us know? </TD></TR></TABLE>
you can crack a rotor if you drive hard enough, esp those drilled rotor. The whole point of the process is to make the metal stronger and resist repeated stress fracture. NOT something needed for everydat driving but i can see alot of track guy can benefit with it.
no idea how well they work but with the right secondary operation they can make a real difference
they are not going to throw it in the chiller right off the casting process, they go thru step down just like most heat treated metal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what do you plan on throwing the rotors at to make it break? The stress on a rotor will be from the pads/calipers pressing in it, not trying to shatter it against some concrete.
I've never heard of them, but how about you try it and let us know? </TD></TR></TABLE>
you can crack a rotor if you drive hard enough, esp those drilled rotor. The whole point of the process is to make the metal stronger and resist repeated stress fracture. NOT something needed for everydat driving but i can see alot of track guy can benefit with it.
no idea how well they work but with the right secondary operation they can make a real difference
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crack absolutely. shatter, absolutely not. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well, if it holds up against crack in extreme condition. i consider it money well spend(again, not statistic to back up this from my own), right?
like you said if you can get the car to break the rotor in half, the unibody, suspension, wheels and tire would probably rendered out of commission anyways.
well, if it holds up against crack in extreme condition. i consider it money well spend(again, not statistic to back up this from my own), right?
like you said if you can get the car to break the rotor in half, the unibody, suspension, wheels and tire would probably rendered out of commission anyways.
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