Hey guys,

I know a coilover install shouldn't be hard, but I've hit a problem that I'm curious if anyone's ran into as well.
I've installed the driver side front coilover, and had no problem with that.
I started the passenger side install, following the same procedure as with the driver side.

When I removed the bottom bolt that holds the shock (the one that goes through the shock 'fork' at the bottom), there was a ton of pressure that pushed the bottom of the shock past the hole where it should be connected. Now I can't get the old spring/shock assembly off of the car so I can put in the new coilover.

The bottom of the shock is now at the point where I can't even get it to line up with it's respective spot.

Bolts I have removed (they've been replaced in the pictures, just because I'm at a standstill):
- 2 control arm bolts
- Brake line bolts
- Bottom perch bolt (the one that I now can't get to line up)

The sway bar stabilizer link has NOT been touched at all.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated with this. Thank you so much guys!







I'LL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO POST MORE PICTURES IF THEY WOULD HELP. Thanks again guys.

 

Working pics updated....

You guys think removing the lower control arm is necessary/would allow me to take of the jammed shock assembly??

 

there should be no need to remove the LCA... i think all i did on my car was unbolt the sway bar endlink... been awhile though lol

 

look at your last pic, look at the white label on the shock in the pic, look left of that you see the black thing with 4 dots on it(total 8 dots), remove that

 

either that or have a friend stand on the brake and pull the strut out... by standing on the disc itll lower the assembly and will give you enough room to pull it out...

 

So I've removed the sway bar linkage, and that wasn't under any pressure whatsoever.

I've tried having someone stand on the brake, but the lower arm doesn't budge AT ALL. It seems like it's as low as it will go. Should I take off the lower arm?

ALSO, would removing the coilover on the opposite side of the car relieve enough pressure to allow me to take out the old strut assembly that's stuck??

 

Use another jack, and "jack up" the lower arm, dont remove the lower arm

 

Yeah, jacking the lower control arm would only worsen the problem. I need that arm to go down, in order to free the stuck strut.

Why do you recommend that I don't remove the lower arm?

 

if it doesnt budge at all you might have a problem... how heavy is your friend??? without going crazy, but if he bounces a little on the brake it still doesnt move at all??? and obviously when i say stand on the brake i mean in the hub, not the top of the disc...

 

You shouldnt remove the lower arm because you shouldnt have to, you might need a heavier friend 180lbs or heavier hahaha, but seriously once you disconnected the sway bar link it should have dropped alittle, youre gonna have to think it out because your situation is too weird for internet help

 

Good Thread, Helped me out alot!

 

I had the same problem. Installed the drivers side somewhat easily by myself. The drivers side seemed to be a bigger PITA for some reason. Had to have a friend help me. Don't remember exactly what we did though.

 

stomp the **** out of it. i just stomped on the studs one time to set it free, then it was just positioning everything to free the strut. isn't that how it works for like... every honda? lol

 

I had the same problem. Just remove the stabilizer bar bolt, and it should drop down lower.

 

OK guys I finally got it. I had to remove the entire lower control arm. That freed up the trapped strut. Thanks for your help. I really hope I don't run into any similar problems with the rears, which I'll do tomorrow.

Has anyone else had any problems with a 'trapped strut' with the rear of your vehicle?

 

Not really if you jack it alittle it may be enough to loosen the arm think guys

 

Since the S is RWD, is it unsafe to jack up the rear end (using the diff as a jacking point) and then put only the rear on jack stands to finish up the work?

Would the car roll at all once on the stands?

 

you arent understanding what I'm saying and wasted my response time, have the car already on jack stands duh, use the jack to push the lower arm up, then drop it down, car shouldnt move if everything youre suppse to disconnect is...disconnected...since you know jacking points tell me how to hold the shaft lol jk if the car is correctly on car stands its going nowhere

 

Yeah man I appreciate your help but a few posts up I noted that I fixed the problem by removing the lower control arm, and tomorrow I'm going to do the rears. I do appreciate your responses man.

I was asking if it was safe to jack up the rear of the car (to do the rears) and put only the rear on jack stands and leave the front on the wheels. Would the car roll like that?

 

Cool...
you'll have to put the whole car up

 

not a good idea. someone died doing that from what i read on s2ki

 

just block the wheels, dee dee dee

 

This works. I've done it many of times

 

never.. never jack the car up unless you have 4 squared jack points.. People forget it's 3,000lbs..

don't get sloppy.