Brake Fluid
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by panykus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it compatible with regular DOT 3 or 4 fluid? ie would I need to do a sytem flush?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it is, and I'd also recommend the system flush all the way through. It gets the old stuff out. However, motul 600 is expensive compared to others. You'll spend ~150% of what you'd spend by going with ATE Super Blue, and ATE Super Blue is ~150% more expensive than Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid. Seriously, the Ford HD is a low cost great fluid to run at the track as well. The Ford HD isn't as susceptible to water as others are. If you plan on going the ATE/Motul route, you WILL need to bleed and flush out the system regularly. Regularly will be dependent on how often, if at all, you go to the track, but should be done on a typical car 2x's a year, if not more, with those specific fluids. While they are great at keeping the boiling temp up for the track, it really isn't necessary for the street. You will not experience brake fade, nor brake boiling on the street. If you think you do, you aren't.
Yes it is, and I'd also recommend the system flush all the way through. It gets the old stuff out. However, motul 600 is expensive compared to others. You'll spend ~150% of what you'd spend by going with ATE Super Blue, and ATE Super Blue is ~150% more expensive than Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid. Seriously, the Ford HD is a low cost great fluid to run at the track as well. The Ford HD isn't as susceptible to water as others are. If you plan on going the ATE/Motul route, you WILL need to bleed and flush out the system regularly. Regularly will be dependent on how often, if at all, you go to the track, but should be done on a typical car 2x's a year, if not more, with those specific fluids. While they are great at keeping the boiling temp up for the track, it really isn't necessary for the street. You will not experience brake fade, nor brake boiling on the street. If you think you do, you aren't.
I do not plan to road race my S2000 on the track. I had a civic that I road raced but it got stolen. I am planning on getting another civic to road race on the track. The S2000 is my daily driver that I autocross ocasionally. I've had not problems with fade with the original honda brake fluid that came with the car when it was new. I recently went to the dealer to inquire about buying some honda brake fluid, and they told me the S2000 used the Honda DOT 3 fluid! I asked if they had the Honda DOT 4 fluid and they were out. I thought DOT 4 specs exeded thoses of DOT 3... I mainly am loking for a fluid that is not hydroscopic so I don't have to bleed all the time, yet has a high enough fade resistance to handle autocross and maybe the occasional track day... I've heard some guys use castrol and like it... I have used Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid on my track civic, but had to bleed after 2 or 3 twenty minute track sessions, so I don't think it was due to water absorption - it was more likely boiling (surprising because it had pretty high wet and dry boiling points). How about recommendations for a mostly street, mostly autocross S2000, and brake fluid for a track civic? Also, how important is the type of brake fluid used for the clutch system? Is there any risk of boiling the clutch fluid? When changing fluid I usually just bleed till the old dirty fluid is gone and I only see the clean fluid, so it's not a true "pressure flush" Can you get equipment to do a pressure flush yourself? Is it worth it or just better to have a mechanic do it?
i think the ATE Super Blue would be better suited for you and more cost effective. a lot of my auto-x buddies use it and Motul is, IMO, for hardcore racing.
Ok, Thanks everyone for your help - I think I will go with ATE Superblue for the brakes. I already replaced the brake fluid for the clutch with Valvoline Sythetic Brake Fluid. Any need to replace that with ATE Superblue?
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When you do go racing again, look at a brake fluid recirculator (I think the company was DPI) It was incredible the difference it made with the vintage race 911 I crewed for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Its_real&its_spectacular »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you do go racing again, look at a brake fluid recirculator (I think the company was DPI) It was incredible the difference it made with the vintage race 911 I crewed for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not legal in some racing bodies and I'd say overkill on open lapping/track days. A brake duct cooling kit would solve the problem of boiling over the fluid, CTAE makes a kit for this.
Run the higher grade hydraulic fluid for the clutch cylinder as well. This car has a tendecy even when using the clutch moderately to foul the clutch fluid quickly.
not legal in some racing bodies and I'd say overkill on open lapping/track days. A brake duct cooling kit would solve the problem of boiling over the fluid, CTAE makes a kit for this.
Run the higher grade hydraulic fluid for the clutch cylinder as well. This car has a tendecy even when using the clutch moderately to foul the clutch fluid quickly.
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