Just bought a 1992 prelude BB21 from a guy in Arkansas. He claims that a professional shop swapped in a redtopped H22A from the 97+ type-s Preludes. I think it is just a Regular H22A with a type-s valve cover. The coating on the valve cover looks genuine though.

When I bought the car. Transmission was supposedly shot because it wouldnt go into gears once started but would go in while engine was off. I figured I would be able to fix it and get it for a deal so I went ahead a got it from him.

ECU: I was told it was running a P28 chipped and it pulled REAL hard.

well once I found out that all that ws wrong was a spring in the clutch disc shattered and was stuck between the flywheel and clutch disc, I replaced it and all was well withthe trans problems.

Now, the ecu throws code 22 even though it wont get even close to VTEC. Not that I'm trying to push it there. It seems like the ecu isnt the right one for the car so I pulled the carpet back to find an ecu:
Permanent marker saying "JDM H22A ECU GOOD"
etching on the top right of the ecu cover saying "P28"
The sticker on one of the plugs claims "P75"

I dont really know what to think of it all. it runs Stupid rich, so much that it doesnt want to even start most of the time, just sputters and stuff.

I purchased jdmcd7_cali-luv JUN P13 (is hopefully on its way) ecu cause I dont have another one anywhere to swap into it so I was just kinda woundering if anyone had any ideas or suggestions. this is kinda a rare case for me to have sinc I hardly ever do any ECU kinda stuff.

Thanks for any and all help, suggestions, or criticism.

 

Well Scratch the whole cant find another ecu thingy cause I was able to borrow one temporarily and it is still doing the same stuff. Wants to die, runs rich, and has VERY poor throttle response. Takes like 3-4 seconds to respond to steady quarter throttle. I will do more searching now.

 

Well I replaced my TPS, MAPS and the ECU to a stock H22A1 and it runs tons better now but still has extremely lagged power. I have to downshift going up hills and doesnt want to accelerate much at all. But throttle response is 10x better than it was but you can still tell it is not what it should be. Once again open for suggestions.

NOTE to Mods: if this thread seems like its leadign nowhere which is what it seems to me, Feel free to delete it since no one has really relpied. THANKS

 

verify that the cam timing is right.
verify fuel pressure.

drive the car and when you feel it bog, turn the ignition off and pull the plugs.

 

Ok I need to let it cool down a bit ad I'll check the timing. Can you suggest maybe the best cheap wy to check fuel pressure? I dont really know how to go about doing so other than buying an expensive guage somewhere.. Also When I pull the plugs, Am I supposed to be expecting dampness from excess fuel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Preludepradit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I need to let it cool down a bit ad I'll check the timing. Can you suggest maybe the best cheap wy to check fuel pressure? I dont really know how to go about doing so other than buying an expensive guage somewhere.. Also When I pull the plugs, Am I supposed to be expecting dampness from excess fuel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont have to let the engine cool down to check cam timing. Pull the plugs, set cylinder 1 to TDC. make sure the cam gears line up and the mark on the crank pulley line up with the mark on the lower timing cover.

about the plugs. You are looking for either bad rich (too much fuel) or bad lean (too little fuel)

http://www.dragstuff.com/techa....html
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Sp....html
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/t...2.asp

 

I had to let it cool so I could remove the valve cover. I dont have mine cut out or anything.

Anyways. Fuel pressure was at 34 at idle and when I revved it a tid bit, it jumped only to around 36-37. this isnt normal if I remember correctly, it should be somewhere in the 40's if revved but I dont know.

Timing was good.. all checked out ok.

My friend noticed that my dizz was completely retarded when I was checking my fuel press and he told me that I definitly needed to change it. I hadnt messed with i since I gotthe car though so we got it to about 2 degrees advanced of the stock 15 degrees. Car runs tons better but notably struggles to get into the 5k-6k range. VTEC does not kick in and it rev limits at like 6200. It is throwing code 22 so Now I just need to find out what I have to do to fix it. Thanks for the help though.

 

Plugs were completely covered in Carbon so I cant really check much for any of the signs of anything bad till I get some new plugs in there and run them for a lil bit. Also, at warm Idles, the engine putters badly, so much that you can pull any one of the spark plug wires and it will continue to run exactly as before.

I will put new plugs in soon and start reading them though.

BTW thanks for sending me the link to those websites. I added one of them to my favorites..