im sure you all have had this question asked a million times but im tryin to figure out whats best with my setup.

i definitely wana lower the point the vtec kicks in for the shift from 1st to 2nd but im more worried about a/f control...

is it simple to adjust the settings in realtime with like presets and **** on the vafc? im thinkin thats the way im gonna go but what i really need to do is disable the 2nd o2 sensor. so im thinkin i might just get a p13 and conversion harness cuz obdII blows. could i just do that with a piggyback or do i need hondata?

if u have any experience with either let me kno what u think

 

ive heard hondata

 

hondata.

btw, you dont want to lower vtec crossover until you have gotten onto a dyno and KNOW where it needs to be placed.

 

well i have vafc in my car, my personal opinion,,, it works fine for the price but if you can afford a little more get a P72(gsr ecu) odb1 with hondata any stage..... this combo gives more hp than vafc and you dont have worry about that second o2 sensor since p72 dont use it...... i dont really know about the vafc taking care of the second o2 sensor since i have o2 sim in my vehicle for that.
good luck

 

why does it matter where its placed? just for gas saving purposes? or does it open the valves too early at a certain point?

 

most people place the rpm lower so when they shift at high rpms the vtec will stay engage........ about gas saving,,,, am not really sure but if i take a guess lowering your vtec would give lower gas mileage.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dameltajo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most people place the rpm lower so when they shift at high rpms the vtec will stay engage........ about gas saving,,,, am not really sure but if i take a guess lowering your vtec would give lower gas mileage.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still am at a loss as to how people fall out of Vtec on the 1-2 shift with the stock vtec engagement point and rev limit. I never have...ever... . Maybe that explains my "faster then average" time back when I was stock...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Preludeguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I still am at a loss as to how people fall out of Vtec on the 1-2 shift with the stock vtec engagement point and rev limit. I never have...ever... . Maybe that explains my "faster then average" time back when I was stock...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i dont understand neither.. mine stills engage at factory specs.

 

yea i think somethings f'd up somewhere in my transmission cuz i cant shift quickly into second gear. if i shift too fast it doesnt slide in it just bangs on something so ive learned just to pull it back a little slower and it works everytime. every other gear is fine tho so i duno. i got the car with 71k miles on it and my brother drove it while i was at school last year so i wouldnt be that surprised.

another thing im thinkin is that it could be a side effect from whatever is makin me burn oil so fast. somethings obviously not sealed somewhere in the engine, im thinking valve seals, and maybe the compression loss makes the engine slow down quicker when its disengaged. i dont really know that much tho i wouldnt even attempt to replace all the seals and gaskets myself so im gonna have to take it in somewhere. can anyone give me a range of how expensive that might be? i think im gonna do that before i do anything with my ecu

 

check to see if its really an h22 tranny. could be an h23 or f22.

with my f22 tranny, i never stay in vtec after the 1-2 shift. always fall to about 47-4900rpm vtec is at the stock setting (~5200)

 

lowering vtec isnt always best... with my set up i have the smoothest hp curve with vtec hittin at 5500.

 

Hondata ftw.

The only way to know where the best place to set your vtec cross-over is doing so on the dyno.

If you need any hondata units feel free to contact me... I am an authorized distributor.

 

can you give me a price for 97 prelude SH i got a dc headers, cold air intake, high flow cat, streetlite act flywheel,
You think the ATTS still works if i have a new ecu what is the best set up?

 

Fark Hondata. Crome does everything Hondata does but it's free.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fark Hondata. Crome does everything Hondata does but it's free.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>



and you can always upgrade to PRO for 150 bux.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fark Hondata. Crome does everything Hondata does but it's free.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

expletive chip burning.

 

thats why you just use the ostrich

 

they don't make hondatas for p13's.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jnuanz382 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you give me a price for 97 prelude SH i got a dc headers, cold air intake, high flow cat, streetlite act flywheel,
You think the ATTS still works if i have a new ecu what is the best set up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

and yes, you will lose your ATTS.

 

i have a p14. and jnuaz get the expletive off my thread u lil bitch.

what is chrome exactly besides the fact that it enables u to chip ur ecu? and what do u need to write the data?