Type S pistons
I know very little about engine building but my cars burning a lot of oil and has a bunch of miles and I need to start gathering parts for a rebuild. My question is will Type S pistons fit into an H22A1 engine and be able to use the stock rods and wrist pins? I'll hopefully be running these with the supertech valve stem seals and valve guides, skunk2 tuner2's, titanium retainers, tuner springs, and hi compression valves. Also would the type s pistons up my compression enough to benifit from skunk2's flat face valves or should I go with their dished valves? thanks guys
H22a1 rods will need to be rebushed to accept the floating pin design of the Type-S pistons. The other option would be to find H22a4 rods.
Dished valves flow better in a stock head. OEM valves are good. Have the valve seats and your stock valves recut to ensure good seal. The spec for this is in the helms.
Get the .25 OS pistons and have the block rebored accordingly. There are only a few shops in the country that can hone FRM correctly and consistently. The two best options are Golden Eagle in California and Don Flores (user DonF) in Florida. I'll be rebuilding my shortblock soon too, and am going to send it to Don for the machining. A good hone is direly important to getting good ring seal and honing FRM is very different from that of iron sleeves. Send the pistons with the block so that the piston-wall clearance can be set accordingly during the bore machining.
Skunk2 Pro1 or Pro2's would yield much better gains than the regular Stage2 cams. Skip the titanium retainers. That material will cause the retainers to be a wear item. Steel will work better if the car is a dd.
This is the most important part: go over the helms and familiarize with what's involved. There's nothing complicated about a rebuild. Just take your time, be patient and meticulous, and keep your workspace clean. You can download the service manual here if you don't already have it. http://www.spoonhonda.com
You'll also need some provision to tune the engine with all the parts you're changing.
GL!
Dished valves flow better in a stock head. OEM valves are good. Have the valve seats and your stock valves recut to ensure good seal. The spec for this is in the helms.
Get the .25 OS pistons and have the block rebored accordingly. There are only a few shops in the country that can hone FRM correctly and consistently. The two best options are Golden Eagle in California and Don Flores (user DonF) in Florida. I'll be rebuilding my shortblock soon too, and am going to send it to Don for the machining. A good hone is direly important to getting good ring seal and honing FRM is very different from that of iron sleeves. Send the pistons with the block so that the piston-wall clearance can be set accordingly during the bore machining.
Skunk2 Pro1 or Pro2's would yield much better gains than the regular Stage2 cams. Skip the titanium retainers. That material will cause the retainers to be a wear item. Steel will work better if the car is a dd.
This is the most important part: go over the helms and familiarize with what's involved. There's nothing complicated about a rebuild. Just take your time, be patient and meticulous, and keep your workspace clean. You can download the service manual here if you don't already have it. http://www.spoonhonda.com
You'll also need some provision to tune the engine with all the parts you're changing.
GL!
Thanks you very much, that was very informative. So the h22a1 uses press in pins while the h22a4 uses floating. So If I were to get my hands on some stock h22a4 rods of Eagle rods they would work with my current crank no problem and could be used with the type s's?
Yup the cars my dd that I would like to take it to the drags in the near future but Im not looking for anything crazy, I just want a reliable car seeing as I built my suspension setup very well and my brakes and now I just want the car to move
So pro1's would be ok with the tuner series spring? No need to up the compression majorly to have them run and yield decent results? Also steel retainers are ok to run with an upgraded valve and spring? Also I saw that Supertech makes Aluminum retainers. Any word if they wear any worse then titanium? I've seen dyno's of the Pro1's tuned with chrome up around 210 IIRC on stock block
Im currently running a p28 with ECTUNE and hopefully my tuner can help me through this build a bit, but for now I think im just going to pick up some valve stem seals, keepers, water pump, cam seals and other little stuff that prolly wouldn't hurt to be replaced so that I can sleep better at night. Trying to get a direction in mind if ya know what I mean.
Sorry for all the questions but I'd much rather be getting a response from you than someone who knows only b-series or has like 10 posts
Thank you sir
Yup the cars my dd that I would like to take it to the drags in the near future but Im not looking for anything crazy, I just want a reliable car seeing as I built my suspension setup very well and my brakes and now I just want the car to move
So pro1's would be ok with the tuner series spring? No need to up the compression majorly to have them run and yield decent results? Also steel retainers are ok to run with an upgraded valve and spring? Also I saw that Supertech makes Aluminum retainers. Any word if they wear any worse then titanium? I've seen dyno's of the Pro1's tuned with chrome up around 210 IIRC on stock block
Im currently running a p28 with ECTUNE and hopefully my tuner can help me through this build a bit, but for now I think im just going to pick up some valve stem seals, keepers, water pump, cam seals and other little stuff that prolly wouldn't hurt to be replaced so that I can sleep better at night. Trying to get a direction in mind if ya know what I mean.
Sorry for all the questions but I'd much rather be getting a response from you than someone who knows only b-series or has like 10 posts
Thank you sir
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crzyb18cSOHCpinoykilla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always thought you could just swap out the pistons </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not exactly.
Not exactly.
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