Set-up: As of 7/9/05

Engine Block: '93 H22a "bored and stroked" to 2.44ltrs of displacement built by Collective Racing. Custom 98mm Crank (Balanced and nitrited), 89mm bore Darton sleeves, Crower Pro-billet rods, Custom 12/1 compression 89mm JE pistons, Prodrive oil pump, ATR crank pulley, manual timing belt tensioner conversion, ARP main studs.

Cylinder head: Ported and polished by Collective Racing, Web Cams camshafts (89/267), Web Cams springs and Titainium retainers, ITR LMAs, Modified stock intake manifold, Hondata intake manifold gasket, Erick's Racing 70-68mm Throttle body, RC engineering 440cc Fuel injectors, B&M fuel pressure riser and Guage, STR cam seal, STR cam gears, SMSP 4-1 header, ARP head studs, Cometic head gasket.

Transmission: T2T4, prodrive 4.7 FD, carbon synchros

Misc: AEM 3" cold air intake, NGK wires, Hondata S200, 2 1/2" crunch bent exaust.

Just an update: My engine has curently hit 56K miles, 3% leakdown cylinders 1-4, Dynoed 241.8 WHP and 188.8WTQ (on a Dynapak) and still driven hard all the time. It will be an interesting comparison with my upcoming new engine set-up. Changes to my current engine to date are: Intake manifold changes from the Euro R to a modified stock manifold, factory aluminum oil pan, and I shimmed my oil pump. During the dyno passes, I was seeing 110+psi oil pressure at 8K RPM. I feel this is slightly high and can be robbing me of a few HP compared to my earlier dyno passes. The manifold changes seem to be working nicely as well. Just to note, my previous dyno reading were made on a dynojet. I am told that the dynapak reads slightly lower in HP (about 10whp), but can be configured to read almost the same as a dynojet if the measurement is based on time of acceleration. I don't know if this makes it easier to compare my progress, but I thought I should note it. My readings were not measured in time of acceleration. Over all I feel this engine has been very consistant in power output over the years and has proved to be fairly reliable, depending on your outlook. My new set-up should prove that a larger displacement can be equally reliable... we will see

 

Sounds very good. btw, what is you r/s ratio?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sounds very good. btw, what is you r/s ratio?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1.44 r/s, but who really cares ?

 

how much for you to put that in my lude??

sounds awesome!! i think you should take me for a ride in that thing already.

 

Damn... I thought you went for a ride already? I got to ride in both your cars... how rude of me. LOL. Sorry Rob. Stop by the shop and we will go. BTW, I still have one of these engines waiting for you...

 

sweet, hopefully I can stop by mon or tues.

you and your damned temptations!!

P.S. i think my lude needs a quaife..

 

How are you able to rev to 8k safely with that stroke? Is it all about balancing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How are you able to rev to 8k safely with that stroke? Is it all about balancing?</TD></TR></TABLE>Without trying to start a huge debate, I will say R/S ratios are TOO OVERRATED! I would spin this engine higher if my cam profiles allowed me to. With a different cam choice, you may see this engine make more power in the near future.

 

niice work man i like your progress!
i wonder how that setup would feel
in my ride at 2550 lbs. hmmmmm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89sih22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">niice work man i like your progress!
i wonder how that setup would feel
in my ride at 2550 lbs. hmmmmm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Considering that my car weighs 2550lbs too.... It feels very nice.

 

how'd you shave the weight in your accord, you still have full interior right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Considering that my car weighs 2550lbs too.... It feels very nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

real tight man,2point6 the "man"!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BokChoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how'd you shave the weight in your accord, you still have full interior right?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes... carpet, seats, door panels, headliner, dash, all plastic trim... etc. The 4dr was not that heavy to start with... about 2770lbs. I removed deadening material, tar material, all heat sheilds, bumper supports are cut and so on... This car could weigh much less if I added carbon fiber to the mix. I run all factory sheet metal as well. I have been somewhat meticulous about weight loss on this car, but I have yet to really "gut" the car out. Things I am planning are to remove the undercoating, cut off excess bolts, and remove other "unnessesary items. Still a lot of work to go, but it is still a functioning 4 dr family car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes... carpet, seats, door panels, headliner, dash, all plastic trim... etc. The 4dr was not that heavy to start with... about 2770lbs. I removed deadening material, tar material, all heat sheilds, bumper supports are cut and so on... This car could weigh much less if I added carbon fiber to the mix. I run all factory sheet metal as well. I have been somewhat meticulous about weight loss on this car, but I have yet to really "gut" the car out. Things I am planning are to remove the undercoating, cut off excess bolts, and remove other "unnessesary items. Still a lot of work to go, but it is still a functioning 4 dr family car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you think the ported stock manifold makes more than the Euro R?

I curreantly have a ported stock manifold, and I was going to make a switch to the Euro R.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cpforyou &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you think the ported stock manifold makes more than the Euro R?

I curreantly have a ported stock manifold, and I was going to make a switch to the Euro R.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say the version I have made does... Not sure what you have, so it would be unfair to say yes or no. Stock for stock the Euro R flows the least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say the version I have made does... Not sure what you have, so it would be unfair to say yes or no. Stock for stock the Euro R flows the least.</TD></TR></TABLE>

put it on and throw it on the same dyno and let us know!


and the comment about revving it to 8k safely..we will have to see. only time will tell. the s2k..i forgot which one, but it blew up at 2.2 liters at 9k rpm's.

 

Looking really good man! I would love to have an N/A car but the rush of torque is just too appealing!! haha, any plans to sell that beast and come back to the darkside?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

put it on and throw it on the same dyno and let us know!


and the comment about revving it to 8k safely..we will have to see. only time will tell. the s2k..i forgot which one, but it blew up at 2.2 liters at 9k rpm's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as the revs are concerned, this engine has already more than proven itself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the revs are concerned, this engine has already more than proven itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you constantly take it up to 8000 and how many miles have been on since the build?

 

Looking good Scott

What did you do to your stock manifold if you don't mind me asking?

 

2point6..a member on preludepower
modified a 89 b20a5 mani,t/b and dynoed 25hp to the ground!! i was amazed, can we gain that much on h22,s or was that because the intake mani on 88-91 were very restictive
as being the weak link on 3rd gen ludes,hmm
i wonder?or is it all in the technech of re-working the mani? who knows?

 

nice work 2point6

was i misreading in another thread or are part of your new plans to utilize a modified f23 crank?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do you constantly take it up to 8000 and how many miles have been on since the build?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No offence, but did you even read my first post? Go back and read it, silly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looking good Scott

What did you do to your stock manifold if you don't mind me asking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thankyou. I modified the manifold to what is commonly known as the "RS mod". It is radically altered.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by optikal_blitz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice work 2point6

was i misreading in another thread or are part of your new plans to utilize a modified f23 crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.