Well, i just replaced my knock sensor, after a couple of months of driving without one (broke it when i swapped my engine in), pulled my ecu fuse to reset the ecu, put it back in, turned the car on and let it idle for 15 minutes and took her out for a drive...around 60 mph in 5th gear BAM... CEL again...code 23

Whats really goin on here? Would it throw a code if it was too tight or not tight enough? I tightened it down pretty good, but i didnt want to tighten it too much and strip the block...

What else can i do to figure out whats goin on with it? I looked up tests in my manual...but i dont have the ECU connector that they specify needs to be used..

 

If the timing is too far advanced or you use too low of an octane rating on your gas
it could also probably set that code. Check the wiring from the sensor to the ecu
as well.

 

bad gas and or timing will NOT set code 23. Only a problem with the connection between the sensor and the ECU will set code 23. Oh and a faulty sensor will too. I suspected a problem with mine about a year ago and after I found a connector near the fuse box that carries that wire along with a couple others I decided to run a new wire from the sensor all the way to the ecu. Well , lets just say I am still waiting for code 23 to come back.

 

Try disconnecting the 2 pin connector from the knock sensor, check for continuity from the d3 pin coming out the the harness from the ecu and a good body ground.

If there is continuity repiar the short in the red/blue wire between the ecm and
the knock sensor.

It's supposed to torqued to about 23ft lbs

Is this a new OEM sensor?

 

its new...not oem...i did buy an e-bay special =/ i just couldnt bring myself to buy a $200 sensor when i could drop less than that on a p28 ecu chipped to give the knock sensor the bird...but i felt like i'd give this a go first.
how can i check the d3 port on the harness from the ecu? the probes on my multimeter are way too big to check anything... Would it be safe to unplug the harness from ecu and from the sensor and check for continuity from the sensor connector?
I wish i could have had an actual torque reading...but there is no way i'm able to get my big *** torque wrench in there...i DEFINITELY torqued it way way way beyond 23 ft/lbs though...so i just loosened it and tightened it down just a little this time...

 

alright used a paperclip to get into the terminal, no continuity, pulled the knock sensor, no continuity between the connrector and the base, no ohms reading when its being tapped either...so i can only figure its dead....hopefully the ebay vendor will exchange it

 

I say if you know someone with a prelude with a good knock sensor to borrow theirs to see if its the sensor or not.

 

doesn't have to be a Prelude.

 

eh, noone is gonna be willing to be down long enough for me to rip their sensor out (though with how many times ive done it now, i feel like a damn ninja master at pulling them without taking the oil filter off)

If the vendor will exchange it and it still doesnt work...i'm just gonna get a chipped p28 to eliminate the knock sensor lol

 

So what is the point of a knock sensor if it's just a big hassle and a lot of people just delete it?

 

to just give you a heads up hey somthing bad is going on check me out.... befor its to late

 

Is there any chance of it getting wet to throw the code once. It rained pretty hard the other day and it randomly shot on on my way home that night. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back on yet.

 

i would think more then likely not but thats just my guess

 

bad gas can set off a code 23 it detonates before compression the knock sensor picks up on that and tries to regulate the problem when there isn't one use nothing a 91 octane rating in any h22a, check your dizzy timing also being to advanced can also cause this code for the same reason and make sure block timing is good

 

or your knock sensor is just dead

 

So i got my honda diagnose, i had poor acceleration on my honda and it was my knock sensor i replace it and put a new one my check engine came off but VSA didnt so im guessing i gotta go clear out the codes, right?, but im still getting poor acceleration why?