Replace timing belt?
I bought my 4th gen last Nov. from a salvage-repair guy who apparently bought it cheap, fixed up the rear quarter panel damage and resold the car for profit. It had 113kish miles.
Now it has 126k and I'm wondering if I should replace the timing belt, as I don't know if he changed it or not. I forgot to ask!
I know honda belts last for 90-105k miles, so wouldn't it have snapped by now if it was never changed? So this leads me to believe it has been changed, but there's still some doubt and paranoia..
I know I shouldn't be taking gambles like this but money is tight and if I can be 99% sure it has been replaced then it'll save me some bucks
Now it has 126k and I'm wondering if I should replace the timing belt, as I don't know if he changed it or not. I forgot to ask!
I know honda belts last for 90-105k miles, so wouldn't it have snapped by now if it was never changed? So this leads me to believe it has been changed, but there's still some doubt and paranoia..
I know I shouldn't be taking gambles like this but money is tight and if I can be 99% sure it has been replaced then it'll save me some bucks
Remove the valvecover and check the timing belt for abnormal wear.
Either way, I would recommend replacing it. What's ~$200 vs. a new motor when the belt snaps? And since you're in there, convert it to a manual tensioner as well.
Either way, I would recommend replacing it. What's ~$200 vs. a new motor when the belt snaps? And since you're in there, convert it to a manual tensioner as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the valvecover and check the timing belt for abnormal wear.
Either way, I would recommend replacing it. What's ~$200 vs. a new motor when the belt snaps? And since you're in there, convert it to a manual tensioner as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
couldnt have said it better myself
Either way, I would recommend replacing it. What's ~$200 vs. a new motor when the belt snaps? And since you're in there, convert it to a manual tensioner as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>couldnt have said it better myself
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the valvecover and check the timing belt for abnormal wear.
Either way, I would recommend replacing it. What's ~$200 vs. a new motor when the belt snaps? And since you're in there, convert it to a manual tensioner as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree $200 is nothing compared to the risk of a damaged motor, but my reasoning was that if the belt lasts for 90k miles it would've snapped already if it wasn't replaced. Has it been known to last longer?
Also I heard that visual inspection is not accurate because there may be cracks that are not visible until you take it off and inspect up close by pinching the belt.
Thanks
Either way, I would recommend replacing it. What's ~$200 vs. a new motor when the belt snaps? And since you're in there, convert it to a manual tensioner as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree $200 is nothing compared to the risk of a damaged motor, but my reasoning was that if the belt lasts for 90k miles it would've snapped already if it wasn't replaced. Has it been known to last longer?
Also I heard that visual inspection is not accurate because there may be cracks that are not visible until you take it off and inspect up close by pinching the belt.
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmai86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I agree $200 is nothing compared to the risk of a damaged motor, but my reasoning was that if the belt lasts for 90k miles it would've snapped already if it wasn't replaced. Has it been known to last longer?
Also I heard that visual inspection is not accurate because there may be cracks that are not visible until you take it off and inspect up close by pinching the belt.
Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no not necessarily. that is not always true. they can last longer than that. they just reccomend changing it at 90k
I agree $200 is nothing compared to the risk of a damaged motor, but my reasoning was that if the belt lasts for 90k miles it would've snapped already if it wasn't replaced. Has it been known to last longer?
Also I heard that visual inspection is not accurate because there may be cracks that are not visible until you take it off and inspect up close by pinching the belt.
Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>no not necessarily. that is not always true. they can last longer than that. they just reccomend changing it at 90k
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in the service manual i think it says to check for the play of the belt.. but a small crack could tear in the right conditions so i wouldn't risk it.
and as for the mechanic who fixed it up and sold it to you.. if it's only rear quarter panel damage there would be no reason for him to pull the motor or do maintenance so he probably didn't. u can look on carfax some times to see if it was taken to honda or a maintenance place and ask for records.
and as for the mechanic who fixed it up and sold it to you.. if it's only rear quarter panel damage there would be no reason for him to pull the motor or do maintenance so he probably didn't. u can look on carfax some times to see if it was taken to honda or a maintenance place and ask for records.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattsnooz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">probably includes water pump for 200</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most manuals recommend replacing the waterpump while you are in there, which is a good idea.
Most manuals recommend replacing the waterpump while you are in there, which is a good idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who is paying 200 bucks for a timing belt? I just spent 50 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I always recommend replacing the water pump when you're in there. Plus the manual tensioner conversion.
I always recommend replacing the water pump when you're in there. Plus the manual tensioner conversion.
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armharm
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Nov 8, 2002 02:57 PM





