Question concerning CEL code 22.
Sup fellas. I keep throwing a CEL code 22 for the VTEC oil pressure switch.
My question is, is it possible that something else is causing this CEL to
engage besides the actual switch itself?
Will the CEL come on if I'm lacking sufficient oil pressure or only
if the switch itself is bad.
If I turn the car off and then back on the light will go away for a little while
and then come back on.
It's also lacking a considerable amount of power even when the CEL is off.
Thnx for any input fellas
My question is, is it possible that something else is causing this CEL to
engage besides the actual switch itself?
Will the CEL come on if I'm lacking sufficient oil pressure or only
if the switch itself is bad.
If I turn the car off and then back on the light will go away for a little while
and then come back on.
It's also lacking a considerable amount of power even when the CEL is off.
Thnx for any input fellas
well as long as you "oil" light doesn't come on your motor should still be fine. there are 6 possible reasons code 22 could show up:
1. you are low on oil. fill it up to the recommended amount of oil.
2. your oil elements are old and breaking down. time for an oil change!
3. your oil pump cannot build enough pressure for the VTEC solenoid to operate properly. this can happen in 4th and 5th gear near redline. no real cure for this, unless you want to buy a pricey oil pump setup.
4. your VTEC solenoid screen is blocked by crud. take the screen off and clean it or buy a new one.
5. your VTEC solenoid is bad, replace it with a new one or a used one that still works.
6. the wiring for the solenoid has been messed up somwhere along the line. a visual inspection, or electrical testing can tell you if this is the case. repair the wiring as needed if this is your problem.
these are the possibilities i got from a dealership tech when this happened to me. luckily my screen was blocked a little so i just cleaned it by pouring fresh oil through it in the reverse direction to remove the sludge buildup. start with the easiest and cheapest and work your way up until you fix the problem.
1. you are low on oil. fill it up to the recommended amount of oil.
2. your oil elements are old and breaking down. time for an oil change!
3. your oil pump cannot build enough pressure for the VTEC solenoid to operate properly. this can happen in 4th and 5th gear near redline. no real cure for this, unless you want to buy a pricey oil pump setup.
4. your VTEC solenoid screen is blocked by crud. take the screen off and clean it or buy a new one.
5. your VTEC solenoid is bad, replace it with a new one or a used one that still works.
6. the wiring for the solenoid has been messed up somwhere along the line. a visual inspection, or electrical testing can tell you if this is the case. repair the wiring as needed if this is your problem.
these are the possibilities i got from a dealership tech when this happened to me. luckily my screen was blocked a little so i just cleaned it by pouring fresh oil through it in the reverse direction to remove the sludge buildup. start with the easiest and cheapest and work your way up until you fix the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well as long as you "oil" light doesn't come on your motor should still be fine. there are 6 possible reasons code 22 could show up:
1. you are low on oil. fill it up to the recommended amount of oil.
2. your oil elements are old and breaking down. time for an oil change!
3. your oil pump cannot build enough pressure for the VTEC solenoid to operate properly. this can happen in 4th and 5th gear near redline. no real cure for this, unless you want to buy a pricey oil pump setup.
4. your VTEC solenoid screen is blocked by crud. take the screen off and clean it or buy a new one.
5. your VTEC solenoid is bad, replace it with a new one or a used one that still works.
6. the wiring for the solenoid has been messed up somwhere along the line. a visual inspection, or electrical testing can tell you if this is the case. repair the wiring as needed if this is your problem.
these are the possibilities i got from a dealership tech when this happened to me. luckily my screen was blocked a little so i just cleaned it by pouring fresh oil through it in the reverse direction to remove the sludge buildup. start with the easiest and cheapest and work your way up until you fix the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the replys.
Here's my answers to your questions.
1. I just changed the oil, the oil level is perfectly fine as well as the filter.
2. Same as above
3.Oil pump seems like it could be a possibility but there is only 50k on the motor.
I haven't had a chance to actually check out how good the oil pressure is but it
should be good.
4. and 5.--This is a code 22 not 21, why would it throw this code if the actual
soleniod was bad or clogged, that wouldn't make much sense.
6.I've checked the wiring and even regrounded the ground wire for the OP switch.
I just want to know if anyone can confirm if something else can trigger the
VTEC OP switch w/o the actual switch being faulty itself.
1. you are low on oil. fill it up to the recommended amount of oil.
2. your oil elements are old and breaking down. time for an oil change!
3. your oil pump cannot build enough pressure for the VTEC solenoid to operate properly. this can happen in 4th and 5th gear near redline. no real cure for this, unless you want to buy a pricey oil pump setup.
4. your VTEC solenoid screen is blocked by crud. take the screen off and clean it or buy a new one.
5. your VTEC solenoid is bad, replace it with a new one or a used one that still works.
6. the wiring for the solenoid has been messed up somwhere along the line. a visual inspection, or electrical testing can tell you if this is the case. repair the wiring as needed if this is your problem.
these are the possibilities i got from a dealership tech when this happened to me. luckily my screen was blocked a little so i just cleaned it by pouring fresh oil through it in the reverse direction to remove the sludge buildup. start with the easiest and cheapest and work your way up until you fix the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the replys.
Here's my answers to your questions.
1. I just changed the oil, the oil level is perfectly fine as well as the filter.
2. Same as above
3.Oil pump seems like it could be a possibility but there is only 50k on the motor.
I haven't had a chance to actually check out how good the oil pressure is but it
should be good.
4. and 5.--This is a code 22 not 21, why would it throw this code if the actual
soleniod was bad or clogged, that wouldn't make much sense.
6.I've checked the wiring and even regrounded the ground wire for the OP switch.
I just want to know if anyone can confirm if something else can trigger the
VTEC OP switch w/o the actual switch being faulty itself.
btw: this car has been sitting for 7-8 months before last week.
The gas tank was 95% empty when I started driving it again and
refilled it with new gas.
I've put 500miles on her since then.
The gas tank was 95% empty when I started driving it again and
refilled it with new gas.
I've put 500miles on her since then.
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chris whats up?
so your throwing a code 22. well ususally if there is isuficant oil supply the motor will just not engauge vtec and not throw a code. ususaly you get a 22 when the motor expects to see a cetian output from the presure switch that it doesn't.. if the computer tells the vtec solinoid to open and then the presure switch isn't reading positive presure then it throws a CEL. the presure sensor is a feed back sensor . its supposed to tell the ecu that high presure oil has made its way to the vtec oil galleys..
my suggestion if pull the sensor out and get some break cleaner and clean the inside of the sensor out. this will get any gunk out that might be causing a mis reading. second thing is you could try and replace the sensor.. that being only if you sure no wiring has changed..
so your throwing a code 22. well ususally if there is isuficant oil supply the motor will just not engauge vtec and not throw a code. ususaly you get a 22 when the motor expects to see a cetian output from the presure switch that it doesn't.. if the computer tells the vtec solinoid to open and then the presure switch isn't reading positive presure then it throws a CEL. the presure sensor is a feed back sensor . its supposed to tell the ecu that high presure oil has made its way to the vtec oil galleys..
my suggestion if pull the sensor out and get some break cleaner and clean the inside of the sensor out. this will get any gunk out that might be causing a mis reading. second thing is you could try and replace the sensor.. that being only if you sure no wiring has changed..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chris whats up?
so your throwing a code 22. well ususally if there is isuficant oil supply the motor will just not engauge vtec and not throw a code. ususaly you get a 22 when the motor expects to see a cetian output from the presure switch that it doesn't.. if the computer tells the vtec solinoid to open and then the presure switch isn't reading positive presure then it throws a CEL. the presure sensor is a feed back sensor . its supposed to tell the ecu that high presure oil has made its way to the vtec oil galleys..
my suggestion if pull the sensor out and get some break cleaner and clean the inside of the sensor out. this will get any gunk out that might be causing a mis reading. second thing is you could try and replace the sensor.. that being only if you sure no wiring has changed..</TD></TR></TABLE>
What up Tom, how ya been mang
I'll go ahead and clean up the OP switch as well as the VTEC solenoid
and see hwat's gonna happen
so your throwing a code 22. well ususally if there is isuficant oil supply the motor will just not engauge vtec and not throw a code. ususaly you get a 22 when the motor expects to see a cetian output from the presure switch that it doesn't.. if the computer tells the vtec solinoid to open and then the presure switch isn't reading positive presure then it throws a CEL. the presure sensor is a feed back sensor . its supposed to tell the ecu that high presure oil has made its way to the vtec oil galleys..
my suggestion if pull the sensor out and get some break cleaner and clean the inside of the sensor out. this will get any gunk out that might be causing a mis reading. second thing is you could try and replace the sensor.. that being only if you sure no wiring has changed..</TD></TR></TABLE>
What up Tom, how ya been mang

I'll go ahead and clean up the OP switch as well as the VTEC solenoid
and see hwat's gonna happen
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What up Tom, how ya been mang
I'll go ahead and clean up the OP switch as well as the VTEC solenoid
and see hwat's gonna happen
</TD></TR></TABLE>
update?
What up Tom, how ya been mang

I'll go ahead and clean up the OP switch as well as the VTEC solenoid
and see hwat's gonna happen
</TD></TR></TABLE>update?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
update?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, yesterday I took the VTEC soleniod and pressure switch out and
cleaned them up.
It was still giving me a CEL so then I checked the pins going into the ECU
since I originally had to wire VTEC in. Sure enough the D4 pin for the
op switch was a little bit out of the connector so I fixed that, and back on the
road I went. I head out from work after that for a little VT4k action.
I blast VTEC to about 6800 and let off and the CEL pops back on and the
car falls on its face.
I pull over to check the code and the truth is revealed.
It now pops a code 23 for the knock sensor.
Makes perfectly good sense because its been feeling like the computer has
been pulling timing from my penche motor.
For the price of the knock sensor I could alsmost buy a chipped p28
so that's what I'm gonna do.
Plans for the lude.
Chipped p28
Uberdata most likely.
Eliminate Knock Sensor
Eliminate EGR System
I'm gonna modify the dc collector to 2.5 and throw a high flo cat on
her then tune it after that.
Hopefully she'll be good to go after that
The only thing I don't understand is why both codes didn't come
up originally when I first got a CEL. It's been bogging and running
like poo for a while now
................

update?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, yesterday I took the VTEC soleniod and pressure switch out and
cleaned them up.
It was still giving me a CEL so then I checked the pins going into the ECU
since I originally had to wire VTEC in. Sure enough the D4 pin for the
op switch was a little bit out of the connector so I fixed that, and back on the
road I went. I head out from work after that for a little VT4k action.
I blast VTEC to about 6800 and let off and the CEL pops back on and the
car falls on its face.
I pull over to check the code and the truth is revealed.
It now pops a code 23 for the knock sensor.
Makes perfectly good sense because its been feeling like the computer has
been pulling timing from my penche motor.
For the price of the knock sensor I could alsmost buy a chipped p28
so that's what I'm gonna do.
Plans for the lude.
Chipped p28
Uberdata most likely.
Eliminate Knock Sensor
Eliminate EGR System
I'm gonna modify the dc collector to 2.5 and throw a high flo cat on
her then tune it after that.
Hopefully she'll be good to go after that

The only thing I don't understand is why both codes didn't come
up originally when I first got a CEL. It's been bogging and running
like poo for a while now
................

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, yesterday I took the VTEC soleniod and pressure switch out and
cleaned them up.
It was still giving me a CEL so then I checked the pins going into the ECU
since I originally had to wire VTEC in. Sure enough the D4 pin for the
op switch was a little bit out of the connector so I fixed that, and back on the
road I went. I head out from work after that for a little VT4k action.
I blast VTEC to about 6800 and let off and the CEL pops back on and the
car falls on its face.
I pull over to check the code and the truth is revealed.
It now pops a code 23 for the knock sensor.
Makes perfectly good sense because its been feeling like the computer has
been pulling timing from my penche motor.
For the price of the knock sensor I could alsmost buy a chipped p28
so that's what I'm gonna do.
Plans for the lude.
Chipped p28
Uberdata most likely.
Eliminate Knock Sensor
Eliminate EGR System
I'm gonna modify the dc collector to 2.5 and throw a high flo cat on
her then tune it after that.
Hopefully she'll be good to go after that
The only thing I don't understand is why both codes didn't come
up originally when I first got a CEL. It's been bogging and running
like poo for a while now
................

</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is strange and im glad you got your problem fixed. the knock sensor sucks my *****. it should have thrown the knock code long ago if that was a problem. but good to see your making progress unlike the poor souls in the "why vtec doesn't engage" thread ..
Well, yesterday I took the VTEC soleniod and pressure switch out and
cleaned them up.
It was still giving me a CEL so then I checked the pins going into the ECU
since I originally had to wire VTEC in. Sure enough the D4 pin for the
op switch was a little bit out of the connector so I fixed that, and back on the
road I went. I head out from work after that for a little VT4k action.
I blast VTEC to about 6800 and let off and the CEL pops back on and the
car falls on its face.
I pull over to check the code and the truth is revealed.
It now pops a code 23 for the knock sensor.
Makes perfectly good sense because its been feeling like the computer has
been pulling timing from my penche motor.
For the price of the knock sensor I could alsmost buy a chipped p28
so that's what I'm gonna do.
Plans for the lude.
Chipped p28
Uberdata most likely.
Eliminate Knock Sensor
Eliminate EGR System
I'm gonna modify the dc collector to 2.5 and throw a high flo cat on
her then tune it after that.
Hopefully she'll be good to go after that

The only thing I don't understand is why both codes didn't come
up originally when I first got a CEL. It's been bogging and running
like poo for a while now
................

</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is strange and im glad you got your problem fixed. the knock sensor sucks my *****. it should have thrown the knock code long ago if that was a problem. but good to see your making progress unlike the poor souls in the "why vtec doesn't engage" thread ..
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