what would cause my 95 lude to run really rich... at idle, it studders and the exhaust sounds like crap.. i can even see black smoke coming out sometimes..

I just replaced the o2 sensor with a new oem one, and there r no cels... The car idles kinda lousy, and acros the low rpms it bogs and hesitates...


what thins could it be?

 

stuck injector? try put some injector cleaner into the gas tank

 

ill try some injector cleaner

that is what i think it is now.. something with the injectors


if i pull them off, is there naything i can do?

 

most people told me its not injectors.. what else could it b?

 

Does it burn oil?

Burnt oil will trick your o2 sensor into thinking the car is lean, causing it to add more fuel to compensate. Often the check engine light wont come on until the o2 sensor has quit working because of the burnt oil deposited on it.

-Shawn

 

nope, never burned oil ever

thanksf orth ehelp

 

my lude has the same problem...

im getting my injectors cleaned tomorrow, new fuel filter, spark plugs...see how it goes

maybe get your ignition timing checked out?

 

yes possibly timing, im gonna go to as hop today and see wehat they say

 

could also be caused by too advanced timing, bad plugs, bad wires, bad cap/rotor, timing belt is worn....

 

plugs wer ejust replaced, wires are ngk blues, cap and rotor were jsut changed


timing could be it?

 

car runs and bogs like **** when first started.. after its warmed up it doesnt bog that much.. but runs mad rich and gas milege sucks

 

help

 

 

fuel pressure? what ECU are you using?

 

You need to look for a vaccum leak. Any air leaked into the intake dilutes what the O2 sensor sees and since the mixture appears to be lean it increases the pulse width to the fuel injectors. That being said, despite your replacement of ignition parts recently with quality parts, have you actually verified that you are getting spark at all cylinders all the time? Hook up a timing light to each wire and watch for misses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fuel pressure? what ECU are you using?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


not sureo n fuel pressure.. stock p13 ecu

vafc


Right now its at a shop for diagnoses..


main questin as of now...


IS a 99 sohc non vtec o2 sensor = 95 prelude vtec o2 sensor?

both are 4 wire!?

 

honda 4 wire o2's are the same so its fine, how many miles are on the timing belt, if its old and worn it will have stretched a bit and can throw things off

 

i have 133k and it was done at 90


now i have another HUGE problem

its overheating like crazy


it never even settles down... it just increaes pretty quickly.. after 10 minutes it was around 235 so i shut down, and rewired my slim fan (i have a c+r racing radiator) so that is always on.. and it didn't help

IM NOT leaking coolant

waterpump?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">waterpump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good possibility, ru leaking anywhere from the head? Hopefully it isn't a headgasket.

 

no leaks in coolant or oil


no mixing of each


im gonna replace the thermo tmw

 

Valves not touching the seats!

 

replaced o2 sensor with another one (bosche universal barnd new) and it still runs like ****

someone please help!

 

ummm, ive had this same problem.. the overheating may be due to your coolant system neding bleeding.... which also has an afftect on how it runs.. i had air in my system and the car ran OK but overheated when i was stopped for prolonged period of time. .. ran pretty rich and boged.. i tried everything , fuel filter.. timing... o2 sensor....vacc lines... intake gaskets... injector cleaner... cap, rotor, plugs, wires,... check your idle adjustment screw make sure its not backed out to far... and bleed the coolant...... mine still hesitates a little.. and i am still confused... i have come to a faulty knock sensor as my conclusion... i duno about your.. but on my.. it doesnt feel like its "bogging" it feels like its having timing pulled... which is due to knock sensor being faulty.. i have aquired a new one and am about to put it on ill let ya know how it goes

 

Yeah - unfortunately, i have the same problem; however, I had a termporary solution - use the p14 ecu. And it runs great....a tad bit rich though......

Before you say anything - i'm getting it out the shop right now(body shop that is - so i havne't been driving it EVERYWHERE) - it still runs great......

I'm going to change my o2, IAT, and map........I threw a code once, it was either a code 1 or 10 - thats the o2 or iat.............

I get things pretty cheap by the way, so if anyone needs anything just let me know. I'm going to change these sensors probably here in the next week or so and get back to you.

I can get a brand new map for $207 and an IAT for $38.............o2 for $82

Oh i forgot - i hooked up my vafcII to the p13 ecu (remember it drives like **** - hardly driveable).........I adjusted the fuel and everything and I got it to a driveable state - so I drove around in it, abusing it trying to throw a code, and it finally did - (1 or 10)........

Sometimes it even went into limp mode, but i still don't know which code it was........

 

i got a code 43 today after i installed the o2 sensor


maybe injectors?

or soemthing to do with my a/f gauge or anything?