Quick question fellas which Prelude engine, by year that is, is the best. I need to know the redline, horsepower and torque it can produce. Also I was reading in F.I. forum and one guy was saying something about "H22 are good it depends on the year some are solid deck so they are stronger then b series." Is this true and what does he mean by solid deck?

 

if ur gonna boost get an h23 and pm gudeh23...

 

yeah, if you want boost either go with the H22A1 (4th gen VTEC) or the H23 (4th gen Si) i've got the H22A4 that is open deck, but with the badass sleeves i've got, it's really nice, but if i build another one, it's gonna be a closed deck block

 

Just wondering whether you think the 92-96 closed deck design is better or 97+ open deck is better and why? Also can a fully built H22 or H23 for that matter see upwards of 600whp easily(that's what another boosted H22 owner says), he said he believes Darton makes the sleeves for the H series. Oh yeah I'm looking for a Prelude engine spec page that has all the H series engines specs available, in particular I'm looking for the Final Drive Ratio of the different transmissions, and also the redlines of each engine, just wondering if you could hook me up with such a page. If the gears are too short in these engines I was thinking about sending an LS tranny to Pro Drive for an upgrade then slap that to the H22 or H23, the LS has longer gears. Fellas give me your opinions.

Thanks for the reply


[Modified by Project_SOHC_EX, 3:02 AM 10/25/2002]

 

the way my open deck H22 is built, if i wanted to, i could easily hit 600whp, but that would be A LOT of tuning, plus tranny work, and a bigass turbo, plus your turbo spool would suck donkey ballz, you have to use 100 shot of nitrous just to get the damn thing going.

regardless of what you do, it's gonna cost, a lot, i'm over $10,000 so far, and i haven't even bought my Hondata and had it tuned yet, let alone a few other things.

i spent a lot more than i anticipated, and now i'm in some big time debt. but in the end, it should be worth it...... i hope

 

My h23a, closed deck.


OPEN Deck

As you see with a closed deck it has jackets surrounding the cylinder walls. Under high load, these cylinders can tend to move just a litte, so to solve this people use block guards, which stabilize the cylinder walls. On a closed deck set-up the jackets are eliminated, thus not having to use a block guard. Some h22a's are open some are closed, i cant remember if its the a1 thats open or the a4, i always confuse the 2. In the open deck block that you see the guy used dowel pins, much like a block guard but instead small pins are measured and pressed into the jacket space. In my opinion and experience, this is not the way to go. It can add increase stress around the pin area only, a block guard is much safer to use. I know someone is going to argue with me about this but thats ok because im entitled to believe what i believe from experience. Darton now makes a closed deck sleeve kit, it will convert your open deck into a closed deck, like my h23a is. Just depends on how much money you have to play with.


[Modified by GudeH23a, 11:45 PM 10/24/2002]

 

that secong pic Gude posted up should have said "open deck"


anywasys...
H22A4-open deck
H22A2- closed deck


here's a pic of my open deck H22A4 with Golden Eagle sleeves w/ a reinforcment on the sleeve, similar to a block guard but made as part of the sleeve




[Modified by Boosted97Lude, 11:10 PM 10/24/2002]

 

ahaha i saw that second pic along time ago what was this dude thinkin? im gonna laugh when one of those gets loose and rattles like a bitch. lol... anyway H22 with H23 tranny sounds pretty nice... h23 tranny is better for turbo than h22 (as speculation has it.. BTW gude are those ARP head bolts??? where the hell did u find those???????????????????????????????????????????

 

Yeah I have Darton Sleeves in my H23a block/H22a head

H22A1, H23A1 = Closed Deck

H22A4 = Open Deck

If you are going to build an H series motor....just go with an H23. Basically the H22 and H23 blocks are the same....same bore, it's the stroke of the crank that makes the difference. So 2.3L would be better for turbo. I'm assuming a full porting and buildup of the head....so who cares if you have a VTEC head right.

THe H22 is better for higher revving....but again if you're boosting you don't need the revs.

The last thing is trannies...I'm gonna leave out the H22a4 (5th gen) cause honestly you're not boosting that.

H23A1
1st: 3.307
2nd: 1.857
3rd: 1.320
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.812
r:3.00
Final drive: 4.266
Tranny code: M2S4


H22A
1st: 3.307
2nd: 1.950
3rd: 1.360
4th: 1.071
5th: 0.870
r:3.00
Final drive: 4.266
Tranny code: M2F4


So the H23A tranny also has longer gears...redline on H23 is 6800, 7400 on H22a

 

Yea the 2nd pic is open deck, i was busy watching clemson get their *** kicked by nc state when i typed that

Yes those are ARP custom prototype head studs, i had the machine shop take all measurements then i spoke with ARP and had custom ones made

 

what are the gear ratios on the 5th gen anyways, i know 3rd, 4th and 5th seem long as crap though

 

THey are H22 ones aren't they? I have them as well in my h23 block

 

lol very good info guys. But it always seems to be the same 4 people talking in here when it comes to boost.. In any case, boosted97lude how much was the GE sleeve install if you dont mind?

 

i purchased to work from Viren, aka b18bturbo, he is a delaer for GE, and for resleeving, and finish bore and honing to match the pistons, it was right at $950, but aht also include like $47 shipping charges too i THINK this is how it broke down: resleeving ~$850, finish bore/hone ~$150, and the the ~$47 return shipping fee. it is a little cheaper to purchase the work from VS racing, the reason i did i though was b/c he takes credit cards and GE doesn't. VS racing also supplied me with my stage 3 axles, walbro fuel pump, eagle rods, he balance the pistons and rods too.

and your right, it really does seem to be the same 4 of us talking when it comes to boost

 

Thanks again. I also got my stage III DSS from Viren too.. Did he assemble the block and parts since most of the stuff was balanced by him anyways?? Just trying to get a handle of what I have to look forward to in the future..

 

i assembled it, well, it's almost done... i can't find my oil pump pickup, but other that tnat the block is assembled. i had the crank knife-edged and balanced by someone in GAm so i just put it together myself. since i know how to, i figure i'd just save a little $$$, ya know. but Viren can do full builds, he's out of town this weekend, so just give him a call monday, he can hook you up.

 

Okay cool, like I said I am just gathering info for now, and your setup seems to be the closest to mine engine wise so far.. I definately need to get rid of some of the other bills first before I even think about going turbo??

One last questions, since I noticed you are using a GE Intake mani, what Throttle body are you using??

 

haven't picked one yet, but most likely gonna be Erick's Racing

 

Cool thanks again..

 

get pre 96 because its ODB1

 

ARP claim they are going to be releasing the h23 head studs in 2-3 months. I am sure it will take longer than that just like the h22's, but they are going to make them. They already have a kit number in fact, so technically you could place an order for them now and be the first on the list. The kit is #208-4307 if anyone is interested.

 

h22 studs are different then the h23s, if anyone need the specs then pm me.