Hello, I drive a 96 prelude SI 2.3 non vtec 5speed. Car came with obd2 P14. I just nicely installed a 95 H22A Jdm vtec engine. The under hood engine harness of my car seemed to be obd1 though. Based on the fact that all of the plugs were exactly like this 95 obd 1 engine, including injectors. My car also does use the injector resistor also pointing tward obd1 I think? Keeping in mind my car is in fact obd2 I purchased the obd2a-1 swap harness adapter that everyone talks about so openly. I bought that and an obd1 tuned P13 from speed inovations on ebay.

I am using an obd1 prelude distributor with origional external coil.
All rotation censors are now in the distributor I relocated the 4 wires from the computer that used to feed two censors located on the 2.3 engines oil pump.

The car runs and drives fabulous with no DTC'S using the origional P14 OBD2

The bad news is that I get a no start condition by plugging in the obd1 p13 with help of the swap adapter / harness.

I have gone through the powers and grouds, right at the p13 and they all seem to be present.

Also the fuel pump runs steady with the key in the third position. I guess I can live with this as it shows to be normal in the fact that the swap harness converts A16 to A7 wich would put constant power to the fuel pump. Anyway help on the no start would be great so that I can feel out vtec and my new rpm and M2A4 tranny. thanks

 

WOW! So you have gone from an OBD1 engine harness, to an OBD2 vehicle, back to an OBD1 ECU conversion harness! I think maybe get an OBD2 H22 VTEC ECU. Or... Check all your pinout locations 1 by 1. Your bound to find the problem. Maybe the P13 is bad out of the box. Can you get your hands on a loaner P13?

 

Yeah I would try to borrow a friends known working obd1 vtec ecu ......

 

I just tried the obd1 speed inovations ecu in my 92 accord and it ran the engine. This ecu also has a 12 month warranty so I'm confident that it works As to simplify the confusion on my wiring, I am using my vehicles origional equipment harness and computer wich are both obd2 I didnt change anything. I do think my car is a rare cross breed of obd 2 and 1 made in 03 of 1996. The engine went right in. My computer connectors are one blue and two greys. Is this normal for say a 99 model honda? PLEASE POST a reply

 

96 Lude is the only year with for OBD2 with no immobilizer. 97 and up use an immobilizer. So I would say no.

 

Ok! the project is done I took the car to a local speed shop today. They called me back in ten minutes. I had bought a miswired ebay ob2a-1 adapter. (Chong) installed his and the car runs very strong with my tuned 12 month warranty obd1 P13 ecu. I origionally spent 59 on the ebay adapter that stated 0% failure rate. (Chong) sold me the longer wired, green in color adapter for 100 and 20 to install it. Sweet deal! Just ****ing confused all weekend.

 

wow. now im aware to not purchase that particular ebay adapter.

bumping injector related threads in attempts to satiate the info i require for my issue :/

 

So I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping someone will still see this and help. I am running into some of the same problems that mat r 1 was running into 3 years ago.
I have a 93 prelude which I have put a 97 h22a4 into. All of my wires plug into everything on the engine, This post is the first time Ive heard anything about an adapter that is needed. Why is it needed? What is it adapting?
Any help would be great.

Thanks,
PABB4

 

PABB4, are you using your OBD1 distributor and wiring harness? If so, as long as you have an OBD1 ecu for VTEC, and VTEC wiring done, you should be good to go.

 

I am using a OB1 harness and distributor, but I was told to use the obd2 ecu. Vtec is not wired yet. I was reading and came across this.... http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f146...fo-here-41207/
Where is this build thread it starts that his obd2 h22 had a MAP sensor on the TB where as mine is still on the Firewall using OBD1.
Do I need to find an obd2 MAP and TB and use the OBD2 ecu
or
Do I use the OBD1 setup I have now and find a OBD1 Vtec ecu.

OBD1 Vtec ecu is a p13?

OBD2 vtec ecu is a ????

 

Also another question.... where does the light blue wire for vtec hook up to? I matched the green & yellow, but no clue on the blue.

 

OBD1 P13 is the H22 ecu, and the 96 was an OBD2 P13.

light blue wire goes to the vtec oil pressure switch, and the other wire from that switch goes to ground.

The map sensor is fine in either place, if you use the TB one just cap the vacuum line on the manifold that went to the firewall one.

 

ECU Questions:


I had an 1993 non vtec ecu in the car. It wouldn't start.

I put a 1997 vtec ecu in the car. It wouldn't start.

I have the feeling that both of the ECU's I have are the wrong ones. I think I need an OBD1 VTEC ECU. Is this correct?

VTEC:
From the Vtec SOL on the head, there is a green and yellow wire. I have a pre-wired lude. So I match the yellow/green from the vtec sol to the green/yellow from the fender well.
I still cannot find a match for the light blue wire to go to. Is there a different sensor or switch that this wire (coming from the fender well) needs to attach to?


ODD:
While trying to start the engine, flames came from the TB. Appox: 3 inches out. Any ideas?

 

ECU: If a non vtec obd1 wont start the car, a vtec one won't either, so something is wrong.

VTEC: The light blue wire gets wired to the second sensor on the vtec solenoid, most jdm engines don't have it, just a plug in it's place. The sensor isn't cheap, but I think you need it to run a usdm ecu, someone else may correct me on that.

ODD: Um that sound like you have a bad timing issue with the crankshaft and cams, or something like that. This is probably why the car won't start as well. I would check the timing belt and make sure it is all set correct at TDC. next step would be a leakdown test, maybe a valve isn't seated right or...

 

Regarding the ecu, you will know if you have an obd1 ecu cause your existing connectors will plug into it. So it's very simple. If you can't plug yours in then the ecu is obd2. You want one that says 37820-P13-A10 or A11...you could even use L10 or L11.

If you don't have a VTEC pressure switch on your VTEC solenoid then you can just bypass it if you don't want to try to source a pressure switch, just do a search for "vtec pressure switch bypass".

Hopefully your timing isn't so bad that your engine is damaged though. It sounds like the exhaust valve isn't opening up so it's shooting exhaust gas back into the intake. That should be your main concern at the moment. Check the timing and get a compression test or leakdown test.

 

I have been gone at work for a few days and finally got back to check this post. Thank you guys for your help.
It is believed that the timing may be 180 off. I had a machine shop assembly the engine for me after having them put pistons in. The shop stated that have not done many assemblies on these engines, so I started to question some things, I would be going out to my shop tomorrow to work on it, I'll post my findings thanks again for help with the others questions.

PABB4

 

I think the h22 distributor will only go in one way iirc, I would double check your firing order

 

Good call. Early this morning I came in and starting that the basic, I had the firing order off. It starts now, but will stall without two min of running I think it is vac related I have a few vac lines that I can't figure out where they go. I don't understand the diagrams in the Clinton book any ideas?