everytime I hit vtec its blowing fuses. the first to blow is usually the meter fuse.. Im kinda stuck on what could be the problem. Could it be the vtec wiring? im using speaker wire right now and for some reason think it could be that.. any ways to go about testing this easily?

Also for those who have got a new rack and pinion. When you get it new does the steering stay stiff for a while? Its different and not sure if i like it or not..

Thanks.

 

this has got to be a joke

 

hey man if i were you i would used some small 18g wire or something. more dependable than speaker wire. and check and recheck your wiring. sounds like you made the wrong circut ahah

 

voltage regulator maybe idk seen a prob like that b4

 

props on teh sig

 

it was worth quoting. some people really need to do that or get some serious help with their car instead of trying things themselves.

 

18g wire? Last I checked speaker wire is measured the same way.

 

switched to a internal dizzy and stopped. weird...

as for 1GPlusSH.

calm down mayn. Im 18 cars my daily. did the swap myself and its my first time. i needed a new engine because blew the head gasket on my h23. If you aint got nothing good to say go practice safe sex and go f*ck yourself.

 

im with you. im tired of 66 y.o. guys yelling at me because i asked a question that was posted before i was born.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

I noticed you're local, too. I go to UCF, so I'm in Orlando all the time.

 

congrats on getting it fixed..

and, you're the only one here that needs to calm down. i only said that this has got to be a joke. i assumed it was some 13 year old just trying to see what people would say about the issue...especially with the speaker wire.

if you consider what i said as me being upset, you must get pretty pissed with a lot of people in your life during regular conversation. see if your parents can go back 19 years and practice safe sex

 

Just dont understand why there always has to be one person to troll.

Now the cars burning rich.. errr egr couldnt be the problem?

 

Thanks.

 

Nice bro im in apopka actually. I go around UCF a lot though. Let me know if you need any parts actually. I have some stuff laying around i dont need anymore and would rather give them to someone on HT then sell them to a random person.

 

if you consider what i did to be yelling...WOW.

is your timing retarded? that could be your rich issue. check your timing before going on to something else. was the car running rich before all this started?

 

Lets just chill out with the arguing.

Nah don't think so to be honest. Could very well be the timing though. It burned rich before the new dizzy though. Just taking one problem at a time.

 

I thought the exact same thing. The whole post sounded a bit too "Red Green" to be serious.

Are 57th trimester abortions even legal?

 

GUNSLINGER!

well, if it was running rich before, there are many many reasons it could be. good luck.

 

Should find the problem soon. Kinda hard to work on it when go to school full time and work full time :/

 

are you getting a check engine for the EGR? i blocked mine and it still runs fine. running to rich could be caused by not enough air (intake screw), are you boosted? and for me running rich it was my FPR

 

Thanks thats what it has to be is the intake screw! I had to use it a bit to tune it and i probably tuned it wrong. After i get it out of the shop today ima try that. And yah egr valve is throwing a check engine.. Im not blocking it though because I dont want a check engine light lol. I know theres ways to take off the CEL but id rather just keep the egr valve.. Ill try cleaning it out but last time i tried that it didnt work.. And no its not boosted. I wish.

 

hope that's what it is. and future reference, don't use the idle(intake) screw to tune. it's bad mojo, yo

 

why? just curious ahah. thats probably why mine doesnt run right lol

 

the idle screw is there to adjust your idle. if you're going to tune, adjust your fuel.

just because what you did with your idle screw fixes your symptoms, it doesn't mean that it's the fix you want. people use the idle screw to "fix" jumping rpms when their fast idle thermo valve is jacked. why not just fix the valve? the idle screw may be the cheapest option you have, but it's not the best option.

and i doubt if adjusting the idle screw will help once you mash the gas pedal. i know it doesn't help at WOT. even if you had the screw all the way out, it would be negligible.

 

Yeah i cleaned the valve and it still was being gay... ill put my h23 one on it... but i havnt had time to fix my screw yet because of my overheating problem.. ill let you know if this is the prob though. thanks for the replys.