i was told that if i put headers on my h22a4 that i would loose hp. is this true? if not what is an affordable header i can use thats not way over priced?

 

Save your money for something useful

 

Its a terrible thing when your horsepower starts to come loose. I tightened up my horsepower by putting headers on my lude. One header on the front where its suppose to go, and one header in the back of the motor.

 

so i take it as they do do much at all

 

Bolt-ons will only give you a very small gain, if any at all unless you tune the car. I/H/E setups won't hurt your performance, but you're probably not going to gain much either without a small tune. Even getting a a/f Controller could help you get a little more out of your bolt-ons.

 

i no i wont get alot from bolt on and when i get all of my bolt ons iam ganna get it tuned with a p28 with 2step. iam just looking in advance for a header i already have a skunk2 intake manifold aem cold air intake and a skunk2 throttle body. i just need the computer and the harness and a good exhaust set up and ill leave it at that until i mess the motor up then i start a real build.

 

ya all the parts i have are not on. iam waiting for it all at once but every one tells me dc headers are crap megan headers are crap and so on. the only headers i found that people are saying make power are in the 600 and up range and thats just crazy! i have every thing planed out the way iam ganna do it the only thing iam having to look in to is the header

 

It's also not true.

 

RMF Header 12whp gain best buy

 

That's also not true.

 

let me guess....pm you for chinese metal tubes?


PM vteckidd for an RMF drag replica. On a dyno that rates stock tuned h22's (my old h22) at ~180whp, a stock h22a with this RMF replica made 192whp after tuning.

 

Point was you can't call it "best buy" when price per horsepower is lower than other products.

FYI, Chinese tubes made 11whp untuned, 159 ~> 170 (7% increase) and 14whp tuned (9% increase) for less money than your suggested 6.6% increase.

 

lol, god your such a tool.

 

When you can't argue against logic or math, resort to name calling.

 

Name calling is something that you resort to when you run out of facts.


I also think that ESP might still be making some decent headers for like 400 bucks, maybe, I forget thought really.

 

Just so you know OP, "headers" is plural. Inline configured engines use one "header". You were told wrong by the way. Installing an aftermarket header will most likely not cause your engine to lose power. Therefore, buying a header by itself will not be as beneficial as buying the general list of bolt-ons to go with it. But like someone mentioned before if you were to tune the engine after installing an aftermarket header it will net you greater gains. Its much more cost effective to get a tune after collecting all the right bolt-ons. As for which header you decide to pick, the quality of it will only be as good as the investment put into it. Like the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for."

btw... $600 for a header is almost half the price of many top line or race spec header's out there

 

So basically you bought some of the most expensive off-the-shelf parts on the intake side, but want to skimp out on the header, which other than cam profile will have the greatest effect on the dynamics of your motor, including where and how much power you make. Spending $600 for a header is not crazy, it's practical if you're trying to make power.

While unlikely that you would lose power, buying a cheap header will also net you very little if any, so you would just be wasting your money. Instead of buying a header just to buy one, save up for a little while and make it worthwhile. Count on that taking a little while since you will also want an exhaust setup to match.

IMO, get your tuning setup first and get a tune with the intake parts installed. The tune alone will get you more than you expect. Then save up and get the exhaust done and re-tune.

 

 

just dont mod your car at all if you're gonna spend money on dc and megan crap.
You think $600 for a header is crazy...try $1200+ for a header.
How crazy is that?

 

Bisimoto or bust

 

sure it is with supporting mod if you know how to tune guranteed 10 without a tune pretty much.

 

I understand why the OP is wrong in saying what he said but I'm going to have to call you out on a technicality. I ran a split header on my '95 F150 with the 300ci inline 6. It was a single header to cylinders one, two, and three and another single header to cylinders four, five, and six.

I had an inline engine with multiple headers. True story.

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/M...gory_Code=F300

 

It seems you didn't read my follow-up post explaining why it's not true.

 

Nice gains on that pirate. What header did you use. I will be in the market next year for one, I think I want to go with ESP, but Id like too see my other options

 

There will always be an exception. But....let me ask you this, did you have two collectors on the header setup? Or did it merge into one collector? So it wasn't a separated flange? One might say its a two piece or split header while another will call it a pair of headers. Its definitely a technicality, and I'm no expert on political correctness. It would be nice if a professional header builder would chime in to weigh in on this. Because I wouldn't mind knowing the difference. I was more or so speaking on behalf of most inline four cylinder/six engines. That was my mistake for not being specific enough or just my lack of knowledge. But you are right and I don't mind being corrected. Thank you for your insight