so when pulling out my stock intake manifold we broke the knock sensor in half and ripped the wire out. vtec no longer kicks in. we replaced the knock sensor and did a shoddy job with the wire and it still didn't work. so my question is, i've heard some wires going to the knock sensor on honda's are optical. is this true?

 

Not really needed, you can mod your ECU apparently, I'm not to sure to be honest.
However, does anyone know if any other Honda's use the same knock sensor? I've been needing one for the past year+ and don't want to spend over 50 on one.

 

My knock sensor broke when I did my Euro R swap. I did some research, Most of the knock sensor wiring is shielded. But not at the sensor so your ok. I used a knock sensor from an 03 Odyssey van. There is also a pigtail harness available for the Odyssey. It was cheaper then a lude knock sensor.

 

well i know all f22bs an f22as knock sensors are interchangable and will maybe work on an h22

 

i already have the new sensor. i just need to know about the wire we ripped out of the plastic connector that clips to the actual sensor if it's optical or not

 

shouldnt be...i ripped out mine like 4 times and i never scene an optical wire

 

hmm... well what would be the reason when my car tries to go into vtec it like hits a wall and stops accelerating and makes a crazy loud roaring sound?

 

Well, you said you did a shoddy job on the wire repair. That could be your problem. Are you getting any codes?

 

i had 2 before we replaced the knock sensor. one was for the knock sensor and the other i can't remember. haven't checked it since.

 

i'm surprised your car even runs worth anything; when i broke my knock sensor it ran like crap. are you still getting codes? the easiest way to troubleshoot is when your car is already telling you what's wrong. you could be just chasing your tail when something completely different is causing the problem.

 

well my car was parked under like 2 feet of snow until two days ago. but i also bought a civic so i stopped paying attention to the lude. but now i wanna get it fixed and sell it

 

Hahahaha that is the best description I have herd for it yet lol, did you put a skunk2 manifold on in place of oem and then run it untuned ? Also did you do anything else besides just switch over manifolds ?

 

haha this guy is a genius! ya so what do i gotta do? is it getting too much air?

 

yes indeed i know what u mean...without my knock sensor wired in vtec will not engage an its just sort of roars yes

 

ok so is the wiring still the problem? or does it just need a tune?

 

are you getting any cel?

 

i'm trying to get a reader for tonight. if i do i'll post it up

 

u wouldn't need a tune no...altho it can never hurt

 

ok so i ran the checker. only pulling one code now. P0325-knock sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1 or single sensor).

so does that mean the wire needs a good fixing?

 

The knock sensor is not much more than a microphone that can "hear" the engine ping. When that happens, the ECU retards the timing. It sure sounds like the wire from the ECU to the sensor is open, or the knock sensor is open or both... Ron

 

did you replace the knock sensor with a brand new one or from another vehicle?

your best bet would be to clip a connector off a harness in a junkyard and splice it in. i'm not positive on this, but it looks like a pretty typical 2 wire connector; you probably don't specifically need the knock sensor connector, but just one that fits (i think a couple of the coolant sensor connectors are the same, iirc).

 

i bought a brand new knock sensor straight from honda. ya that's what i was gonna do last summer but got too busy with the civic. i guess i'll just hold out fixing it til spring again lol

 

And did you torque the knock sensor to the proper value when you bolted it back up ?

 

that would be a big negative

 

The knock sensor is a pretty simple device, but they can be temperamental as they are measuring a sound level pulsing at a very specific frequency against a very noisy background. Essentially, the ECU will keep trying to advance the timing until it gets a knock signal. The ECU has some preset memories, but it frequently probes or tests the ignition timing as every time you add gas, the weather changes, or at the whim of a warlord in South America, the timing requirements can change. So, there is a factory setting, a long term adjustment and a short term trim. (By the way, the O2 sensor does the same thing for the fuel injectors). These numbers are in constant flux and is the reason why a crappy 10 year old car today runs much better today (usually new perfect) than a crappy 10 year old car in 1980.