I just got my Prelude tuned. It is a 1992 with an Accord Euro R h22a. Mods are:

Euro R (11:1 cp, type s cams, euro r intake mani.)
Fujitsubo Header
AEM CAI
Fidanze aluminum flywheel
Center Force Clutch
Hondata s200 on chipped P28
5Zigen Fireball exhaust
Koyo Aluminum radiator
Perma-Cool fan

The engine is ran using obd1 h22 340cc injectors, obd1 distributor w/external coil.

The car dyno'd at 135hp, 120tq. This is on a Mustang MD-250 dyno, which will give generally lower numbers than a Dynojet, but shouldn't be that low.

Any suggestions?

 

its all up to the dyno man....did you tune it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its all up to the dyno man....did you tune it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The first sentence is "I just got my Prelude tuned"...so probably. You running a good AFR?

 

Did you do a compression test?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_bb4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got my Prelude tuned. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its all up to the dyno man....did you tune it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by godslayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The first sentence is "I just got my Prelude tuned"...so probably. You running a good AFR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha owned. a rare mgags7 slip.

i'd go to the same shop and ask for other spare horsepower dyno plots to compare from other imports...

that is teh low

 

My stock Euro-R untuned dyno'd at 192 to the wheels. Although mine wasn't on a mustang dyno so that accounts for some of the difference. But yeah, you definately have a problem....good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fish stick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha owned. a rare mgags7 slip.

i'd go to the same shop and ask for other spare horsepower dyno plots to compare from other imports...

that is teh low</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol rare indeed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My stock Euro-R untuned dyno'd at 192 to the wheels. Although mine wasn't on a mustang dyno so that accounts for some of the difference. But yeah, you definately have a problem....good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what dyno was it on? and did you have any bolt-ons?

 

The tuner, (Ron at RS-Motors in Savage, MN) tuned the AFR, Ignition timing, and Vtec engage point. Originally, the AFR was really lean, so he fixed that. I am going to do a compression test this weekend.

He said that the Mustang dyno is generally 15-20% lower numbers than a Dynojet, but even still, that would mean that my numbers are still too low. He didn't believe me when I told him that the stock engine should put down at least 190whp. But that is beside the point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_bb4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He didn't believe me when I told him that the stock engine should put down at least 190whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

That might be your problem right there....a bad tuner. A tuner should know what the engine is capable of and not tuning engines just for the the heck of it. Good luck with an otherwise good build

 

do a compression check. If that comes out fine, check your timing AND make sure it is synched with your timing map.

hp numbers dont mean anything if all that checks out fine. But of course this is just a theory of mine that makes a shitload of sense.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I am planning on doing a compression check tomorrow. On one hand, I almost hope the comp check will come back bad, just so I know what to fix. But on the other hand, I definately don't want to pull the motor out. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Keep us posted... that should be nearly ~200whp or so (from what little I know about the H22)

 

was your ignition timing and the timing on hondata set to the same number

 

I did the compression check. It was 210, 210, 210, 210. My next step it to do a leakdown test, but nobody around here has the tester, so I have to order one, it should be here in a few days. We checked the plug wires, thinking maybe there was a bad one, but they checked out fine, and when we rant the car on some known good wires, it didn't affect it at all. So next is leakdown, and make 150% sure that the crank/cam timing is dead on.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h224thgensedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was your ignition timing and the timing on hondata set to the same number

</TD></TR></TABLE>was your ignition timing and the timing on hondata set to the same number?

Yes, it was all done on the dyno. Air/fuel is perfect, distributor is set.

 

well you can do a leakdown test, but those numbers are pretty consistant / good enough.

 

I hope your not talking about the real Accord Euro R engine....thats an F20B and puts out less hp than the H22 Euro R motor. Maybe thats what your confused about....?

P.S ..... also the OEM H22 injectors are 345cc. just wondering if you got your 'ish a little confused.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Blue

F20B
Accord/Troneo Sir and Sir-T (CF4) (JDM)
200ps/145tq
notes: Type-S head and cams, 2.0L block 11:1 85mm pistons

H23A VTEC
Accord Sir Wagon (CH9) (JDM)
200ps/163tq
notes: 10.6:1 CR, open deck likely regular H22a head.

Red

H22A (Euro-R Spec)
Accord Euro-R (CL1) (JDM)
notes: Type-S head and cams 11:1 CR, single stage manifold, T2W4 short geared tranny with LSD

Click here for more pics

H22A7
Accord Type-R (CH1) (Europe)
Notes: Same as Euro-R above, 212hp, dfferent header, tranny code is U2Q7 and has a shorter 5th gear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually that info above is from Satan SRV (who used to make spoon cf replica lips on PO)

with 200 hp / 145 tq, thats still pretty good and there seems to be more than one euro R. with the f20b being the SiR spec

 

The engine is ran using obd1 h22 340cc injectors, obd1 distributor w/external coil.

The car dyno'd at 135hp, 120tq. This is on a Mustang MD-250 dyno, which will give generally lower numbers than a Dynojet, but shouldn't be that low.

Any suggestions?[/QUOTE]

if your using the obd1 injectors on the euro r im, did you modify the injector slots? If not you will have a disrupted fuel spray pattern and i would not drive the car until your situation is corrected.

 

"if your using the obd1 injectors on the euro r im, did you modify the injector slots? If not you will have a disrupted fuel spray pattern and i would not drive the car until your situation is corrected."

We had to space the fuel rale out about 5-8mm. But other that, no modifications were made. Do you have more info on this?

 

do a search.

the creator was 2point6

 

^^actually that is not on this site anymore, still not sure what happened to it....

check out collectiveracing.net ....its on there

basically you need to match the manifold to the regular h22 gasket

 

Yeah, but keep in mind, this is not just a Euro R manifold on a regular h22. This is the complete Euro R motor. The manifold was put on there by the factory. I read the info, but it was all purtaining(sp) to putting a euro r manifold on a stock baseline h22.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_bb4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, but keep in mind, this is not just a Euro R manifold on a regular h22. This is the complete Euro R motor. The manifold was put on there by the factory. I read the info, but it was all purtaining(sp) to putting a euro r manifold on a stock baseline h22.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes but the euro r injectors have much longer pintle. its not the motor that is the issue, its the injectors

 

I'll compare the obd2 injectors to the obd1 injectors, in the next day or 2. I'll let you know how it does.