Alright guys i tried searching for this but it didnt happen for me. As many may know prelude has the worst idle issues lol. Recently when i'm driving the car with the a/c is on, my idle would drop >300rpm and at every stop the idle would drop till the car stalls out, but it wouldnt do that when the a/c is off, while the idle still hangs low. Also when my headlights are on or when i'm just using my windows it would actually cause my idle to drop but not stall as well. Could this be due to bad ground? It seems like there isnt enough current flowing? I've talked to a crome specialist, which he told me that the tuner before did not tune the car under part throttle could that be the case?


Car Specs
JRSC at 9lbs
Mugen Headers 2.5 down
Mugen Exhaust2.5 out
RC 440cc Injectors
NGK Copper Colder plugs/NGK blue wires
p28 tuned on crome (could this be causing my idle drop from stories heard)



Modified by ludeboi121 at 5:43 PM 6/3/2008

 

I don't think it would hurt to check all your grounds and clean all the mounting points. You might also want to check you alternator output when the idle drops like that...

What does it normally idle at? Have you tried to adjust the idle screw or FITV?

 

i might have to go ahead and clean up all the grounds and see what happens. Would you happen to know the output of the altenator? Also my idle is around 800 once it warms up or a/c is running it would drop below 400 and it would dip below that once i approach a complete stop. Currently the FITV is blocked off with the block off plate and adjusting the idle **** gaved me close to nothing effect.

 

Any alternator should read about 14.5 volts.

That's odd about the idle screw...it should have some effect.

 

the idle screw wont do wanything if the IACV isnt unhooked.

 

yes i know the IACV has to be disconnected while doing the adjustment. Still no luck. I'm debating if adding an MSD ignition and blaster coil would help smooth out the idle. what you think guys?

 

NO!!!!, those aftermarket ignition setups are usually junk, stick with your OEM

It could be your compressor (AC). It could be causing a huge load on your crank, causing it to stall out. This would indicate your compressor/ ac pump is fuked.

In other words if your compressor isn't up to par, its taking alot more energy from your crank to rotate the pulley. If thats the case, the motor will stall out when you turn on AC through the crank. Idle should drop only 200 MAX with a typical AC unit, so if its dropping like 400-500 I would say the compressor for what ever reason is being forced to work too hard.

Obtion B is an electrical problem where the AC for what ever reason is drawing too much current, but chances are if that was the case you'd notice all your lights/etc. dimming when AC gets turned on. If this happens than its an electrical problem for sure though.

As hawk stated you should check your battery maintaining voltage. When your car is running, attach a voltmeter accross black and red and see if it maintains above 13V approx. Also rev the motor when you test your voltage and see if it fluctuates alot +/- 2-3 volts is excessive.

If you get these numbers post them and maybe we can better advise you.

good luck man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludeboi121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i know the IACV has to be disconnected while doing the adjustment. Still no luck. I'm debating if adding an MSD ignition and blaster coil would help smooth out the idle. what you think guys?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think MSD will do nothing but make your car more unreliable...